|
Post by enigmas on Jan 8, 2016 21:42:15 GMT
That insignificant weep is no big deal Phillip! That small hole (there for a specific reason during assembly) can be plugged by tapping a thread and fitting a suitably small (barely larger than the hole) screw or just clean the area and glue a small covering disc in place with JB weld. If the box is ever rebuilt, simply linish the disc off and then tap the hole for the removable screw.
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 9, 2016 10:07:05 GMT
John, could you explain how the added length to the rear of the pressure relief valve (PRV) reduces the system pressure. Do you also have the measurements for the added length of the rear portion of the valve. Apart from that the remainder of the valve appears OEM. PS. I've never bothered to dismantle my pump John and I doubt it's ever been dismantled prior to being in use on my car for over 20 years. Does the reduced pressure make the system less noticeably 'fingertip light' at parking speeds? The extra length is to allow for the grub screw Vince also there are two types of caps one has a recess and is longer! the other is flat, the one I used was flat so it was a case of measuring the distance from the end of the original PRV to the cap face then boring the cap to give the same clearance with the new PRV fitted, I used the original ball bearing the spring was one chosen from my friends "enormous tin" of compression springs it was very close to the original in regards to wire dia but was slightly lighter and longer with less turns per inch, I tried several before settling for the one I used. The mod gives the PS more feel I did lots of trials but the basic one was best it was adjusted to just give assistance while standing still, from memory it ended up at around 150psi.
|
|
|
Post by cooper on Apr 30, 2016 15:22:22 GMT
Hello, I'm actually rebuiding my Hydrosteer PAS Box dismantled because of the usual kind of leaking problem. Would anybody have an hydrosteer power steering exploded view ? Here is the model ref. of mine. Attachment Deleted
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 30, 2016 16:24:53 GMT
|
|
|
Post by cooper on May 1, 2016 10:07:15 GMT
Thank you Phil, your first pictures indeed look like what I have in front of me actually The test mounting is interesting. In fact I look for a way to localise all the seals and put the good ones in the the good places because the jr Wadham renewal kit seems having more than what's needed on my PAS box.
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 1, 2016 10:38:02 GMT
You have to be very methodical with the seal replacement, check for wear where I have indicated with the arrows if it is very scored polish the shaft and change the bush, if the shaft at the pitman end is scored where the quad seals fit again polish, if you don't the quad seal will last for only a very short time and to be honest that will be the outcome anyway From my own experience it is best to test the box before fitting! There was a conversion for the front plate and shaft, so make sure you have the correct seal for your box? Be careful with the loose bearings (check for wear!)pack the end plate groove with Vaseline to hold them while assembling!
|
|
|
Post by cooper on May 10, 2016 16:41:58 GMT
Just finished to rebuid my PAS box with my friend Louis's help. A great expert and mechanic aficionado ! I have to warn futur volonteers for this tricky job that we had to make some changes to the content of JR Wadham seal kit :- The cover big black triangular seal is roughly cut and had to be re-adjusted to fit in the new metal triangular plate I also bought (My original one was different with holes only on the plate). - More embarassing : the white nylon ring had to be re-engineered to 1.5mm in thickness instead of the 1.7mm of the one supplied by JRW - The black square O-ring that is supposed to fit around it was exactly the same diameter instead of being 2mm more. So we had to let the old one in place and hope for the best. JRW had not been able to provide us a technical drawing of that part so a great thank you to Enigma ! whom post : roverp5.proboards.com/thread/9266/hydrosteer-power-steering-automotiveengineer-1960 helped us a lot reading the engineer article he attached there. Next step : remount in place and test.
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 10, 2016 20:17:32 GMT
QUOTE :- The black square O-ring that is supposed to fit around it was exactly the same diameter instead of being 2mm more. So we had to let the old one in place and hope for the best.
Cooper are you talking about the Quad Seal the one on the shaft held in by the washer and Cir-clip these are available from any good bearing company!
The Workshop Manual covers the rebuild very well!
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on May 10, 2016 23:28:46 GMT
Cooper it's good practice to replace the quad seal at the end where the pitman arm fits as this is the primary source of leakage (when the box is at rest...ie., engine switched off.) It is available as John says at reputable bearing suppliers. I would definitely replace it before refitting the PS box!
|
|