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Tyres
Jun 6, 2005 16:20:04 GMT
Post by Deleted on Jun 6, 2005 16:20:04 GMT
Is this radials or X plies we are talking about? Do Michelins make X plies?
I have Kumo's on my 3 litre and have never experienced handling problems - I did when it ran on X plies.
Kumos are made to typea pproval standards and did offer better value over mainstream radials. On modern cars I never thought Michelins Zx's and XZX,s handled as well as they used to on the old X abd were not as Goodyear then
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Jun 6, 2005 20:08:31 GMT
Post by richard Eglinton on Jun 6, 2005 20:08:31 GMT
To Richard F Thanks very much for the offer but I am not likely to be in your neck of the woods in the forseeable future so hope someone else can make use of them. My car passed the MOT today and I am now seriously thinking of getting Radials although I have never driven a P5 with them fitted I think I will probably go for the 205's as previously posted but it will not be for a while yet. I know that with a 70 profile,I will have a wider gap in the wheelarches which will be more noticeable in the front as the rear has settled. Bearing in mind that I am on Dunlop RS5's at the moment,is the handling really transformed? Richard
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Tyres
Jun 6, 2005 21:04:12 GMT
Post by Deleted on Jun 6, 2005 21:04:12 GMT
It will not seem the same car! Ride and cornering will be almost up to modern standards although general road noise (but not tyre screaching on roundabouts) will be higher particularly on concrete roads
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Jun 7, 2005 11:21:35 GMT
Post by stantondavies on Jun 7, 2005 11:21:35 GMT
Is this radials or X plies we are talking about? Do Michelins make X plies? I have Kumo's on my 3 litre and have never experienced handling problems - I did when it ran on X plies. Kumos are made to typea pproval standards and did offer better value over mainstream radials. On modern cars I never thought Michelins Zx's and XZX,s handled as well as they used to on the old X abd were not as Goodyear then I was running on Michelin Radials XVCSP with asymmetrical tread, and was quoted £98.75+VAT to replace and £39+VAT for Kumho. I took the Kumho option to save pennies and on first trip out on a road I know like the back of my hand, well used to driving it on Michelins, I nearly went straight on at a right-hander, the understeer was unbelievable. Went back to the tyre fitter who recommended upping tyre pressure from 30psi to 36psi which did improve matters. But my cornering speeds were down by 10mph. I think Kumhos are too soft in the wall for the weight of the 3litre on the front. I have been driving for over forty years, so far accident free, and do not regard my driving style as agressive. I can drive briskly, but do not need to brake for corners as I adjust the speed on the engine. So I do not think I was pushing the Kumhos too far.
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Tyres
Jun 7, 2005 19:02:16 GMT
Post by Deleted on Jun 7, 2005 19:02:16 GMT
I am pleased to see that you drive your car energetically as they should be.
I must admit that my very heavy 3 litre auto does understeer more than the P5B and I run the tyres at 32psi. These cars will never go round corners like modern lightweight FWD cars
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Jun 8, 2005 11:18:31 GMT
Post by Peter Mueller on Jun 8, 2005 11:18:31 GMT
In view of the recent discussion about the ageing of tyres I have put together a few bits of information that should be relevant for many classic car owners: The scientific basis for the increasing number of warnings against using aged tyres is the result of research that has been done – and is still ongoing – mainly over the past five years. Countries where such investigations are concentrated at the moment are the USA and the UK. The most prominent voices have not been those of tyre manufacturers who, one might allege, have a commercial interest in persuading car owners to buy new tyres but institutes, which do research into accidents and accident prevention, and even car manufacturers (it is mentioned in the handbooks of Audi, Mercedes Benz, etc.). Tyre manufacturers add softeners and/or anti-ageing chemicals to the rubber compounds (e.g. zinc oxide complexes) that migrate continuously to the surface of the tyre and keep it pliable . However, there are two main processes that accelerate ageing. Firstly, the softeners only come to the surface when the tyre is in use and is thereby ‘kneaded’. In other words the lower the mileage of a car over time the faster the ageing. Although this seems to be a contradiction, it becomes logical when considering the interaction of the chemical ingredients that make up a tyre. This also has an important impact on stored tyres. Even under ideal conditions (and they rarely are, of course) unused ones will deteriorate, which has been identified as the main reason why many failures happen to spares! Secondly, environmental and other outside influences such as drying out, Ozone, ultraviolet light, cleaning, etc. contribute significantly to the changes inside the rubber compound. With age the individual components can literally separate and the steel webbing of radials can corrode. Currently, the consensus seems to be that unused (stored) tyres should not be pressed into action anymore if older than 6 years and tyres in use should be replaced after 10 years. By the way, just for the record: I run Pirelli 205/70s on my P5B Coupe and they have improved handling while in no respect compromising comfort.
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Jun 9, 2005 16:46:44 GMT
Post by richard eglinton on Jun 9, 2005 16:46:44 GMT
Crikey!! After reading that I will be afraid to start the engine in the car let alone drive it Richard
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Jun 9, 2005 16:50:00 GMT
Post by Phil Nottingham on Jun 9, 2005 16:50:00 GMT
A lot of these things should be regarded with a sense or proportion although a blow-out at speed, particularl with the front wheels is not something to invite by running on old tyres.
I did have one doing about 70mph on the M42 + the rear tyre. a remould, deflated - it did not make much difference and I was able to stop safely
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Jun 9, 2005 21:14:45 GMT
Post by adrian50 on Jun 9, 2005 21:14:45 GMT
There's a lot of truth in the old saying: Use it or loose it. Better to wear out your tyres (and enjoy the car during the process) than to change the tyres due to ther deterioration from standing / old age etc. GET OUT THERE AND BE SEEN TO USE YOUR ROVERS, YOUKNOW IT MAKES SENSE !! Cheers
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Jun 10, 2005 7:19:41 GMT
Post by stantondavies on Jun 10, 2005 7:19:41 GMT
Hear, hear! USE the cars.
Incidentally, I like Phil have experienced a blow-out. It was the front off-side tyre at 40 mph; could hardly tell it had gone. Two years ago in the hot weather in France the rear off-side (near-side in France) deflated again could hardly tell from the handling of the car. It was interesting changing the wheell as I couldn't undo the wheel nuts with the brace - tyrefitters use pneumatic tools! In a country lane in France we waited and a car was flagged down. With GREAT effort standing on the brace the job was done. Moral watch the tyrefitters and check with your own wheelbrace.
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Jun 10, 2005 16:18:26 GMT
Post by dorsetflyer on Jun 10, 2005 16:18:26 GMT
The other moral is to make sure you carry a good set of 1/2" drive sockets as I do. It will make short work of undoing tight wheelnuts. The plus is you can always stop and help some other unfortunate person without having to worry.
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Jun 11, 2005 8:54:08 GMT
Post by stantondavies on Jun 11, 2005 8:54:08 GMT
I carry 1/4" drive sockets to save space. There is only so much you can take on a month's trip. BUT wheelnuts should not be too tight to start off with and the wheelbrace is designed to give the correct torque.
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Jun 16, 2005 9:12:01 GMT
Post by Try here on Jun 16, 2005 9:12:01 GMT
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Jun 16, 2005 9:15:21 GMT
Post by And here on Jun 16, 2005 9:15:21 GMT
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Jun 16, 2005 12:08:07 GMT
Post by Bertie on Jun 16, 2005 12:08:07 GMT
I carry 1/4" drive sockets to save space. There is only so much you can take on a month's trip. BUT wheelnuts should not be too tight to start off with and the wheelbrace is designed to give the correct torque. I would have thought that 1/4" drive sockets were too small for most jobs other than working on carburettors etc. My choice is 3/8" drive for almost all jobs on the car, in a perfect world we would have a selection of all types wouldn't we!
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Jun 17, 2005 0:02:37 GMT
Post by Geoff Arthur on Jun 17, 2005 0:02:37 GMT
Hi, In order to keep tyres in the best condition whilst stored I have been advised by a tyre professional to keep them sealed in black plastic sacks and in a cool location so ideally not in a loft or shed. Some of the tyre treatments you can get keep sidewalls in better condition and more flexible. I used one recently on both inner and outer sidewalls of the 10 year old tyres on my Coupe and they returned to looking like and feeling like new rather than the brown appearance they were developing. Despite this when the Kuhmos are back, I am going to change them then. Geoff
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Jun 20, 2005 17:42:32 GMT
Post by stantondavies on Jun 20, 2005 17:42:32 GMT
I carry 1/4" drive sockets to save space. There is only so much you can take on a month's trip. BUT wheelnuts should not be too tight to start off with and the wheelbrace is designed to give the correct torque. I would have thought that 1/4" drive sockets were too small for most jobs other than working on carburettors etc. My choice is 3/8" drive for almost all jobs on the car, in a perfect world we would have a selection of all types wouldn't we! I do, but carry only 1/4" when travelling - it saves space.
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Jun 24, 2005 12:36:54 GMT
Post by RichardF on Jun 24, 2005 12:36:54 GMT
Sorry for those that were interested but too far away (I live near Southampton). This is to let everyone know that I have the following tyres to give away: Qty 4 tyres, CHEMLON 6.70 x 15 tubed 91P, 6 ply. No tubes though as I forgot to grab them from the mobile fitter who fitted my 205 radials.
Richard - Southampton E-mail address is in members' list.
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Jun 24, 2005 15:54:51 GMT
Post by richard eglinton on Jun 24, 2005 15:54:51 GMT
Hello Richard What do they look like and were you pleased with the service? As I will be converting soon,I would be interested to see a photo if you have a minute as I am keen to see how they look on the car Richard
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Jun 24, 2005 19:29:41 GMT
Post by RichardF on Jun 24, 2005 19:29:41 GMT
Hi Richard,
The tyres look pretty good to me. The service from E-tyres was very good; the whole process took just under an hour for five wheels (although I had the wheels off the car ready). As soon as the car is off the axle stands (rear hub seal repair), I'll take some photos, also overall wheel dimensions aswell.
RichardF Southampton
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Jun 24, 2005 20:38:10 GMT
Post by Smallfry on Jun 24, 2005 20:38:10 GMT
In the not too distant future I can bring RichardFs' tyres up to north Kent if thats any good to anyone ?
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Jul 30, 2005 16:49:34 GMT
Post by RichardF on Jul 30, 2005 16:49:34 GMT
Well folks, Smallfry came and went and didn't have any takers on the tyres to the North Kent area. So, I still have them. However, as they are taking up room I need to get rid. The four tyres are CHEMLON 6.70 x 15 tubed 91P, 6 ply and in good condition. I therefore need to make this the last offer of giving them away free to whoever wants them. If sombody does want them, I don't mind hanging on them for a while longer.
RichardF Southampton
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Jul 30, 2005 22:25:44 GMT
Post by Smallfry on Jul 30, 2005 22:25:44 GMT
I have seen the tyres and they really ARE in good condition.
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Aug 7, 2005 6:31:07 GMT
Post by PatMcCoy on Aug 7, 2005 6:31:07 GMT
Im looking at getting tyres I see you everyone talking about tyre sizes but not tyre rating Ive been looking around for some white wall tyres but not sure on tyre rating
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Aug 8, 2005 7:56:10 GMT
Post by RichardF on Aug 8, 2005 7:56:10 GMT
Tyre rating or tyre speed rating dictates the safe maximum speed of the tyre in mph. Type up "tyre rating" in google and you should get all the info you need. The cross ply tyres on my P5b were 91P - a speed rating of 93-94 mph. The radials on it now are either T or S, a slightly higher speed rating. A bit academic for me as I don't tend to tear around the country at applicable speeds.
RichardF Southampton
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