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Post by pierre19 on Mar 30, 2018 17:33:42 GMT
When i bought my P5 3 liter (mk2A 1963) some weeks ago, the brakes stopped working and the car started to smoke while level brake fluid lowered . I realized that the brake fluid was leaking into the intake through brake servo. I bought a servo rebuild kit ans tried to di the job. Unfortunately, the servo kit was NOS and rubber seals was not at top. With other parts, i thought it was oK. Now, the servo is replaced but it's nearly impossible to bleed brake fluid ; after bleeding, when I press on the brake pedal the brakes are blocked. Does somedy can explain me what happens and where i can try to find the problem ? Thank you (Excuse me for not speaking English properly...)  Servo opening  You can see a part is missing  Is that normaly reassembled ?  I made the special tool  Do you think that the joints are well mounted ? |
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Post by pierre19 on Mar 31, 2018 7:26:48 GMT
Thank you phil, I have manual and parts list. I tried to repair servo and didn't know it was better to install P5B one. Thank you for your help. I tried to make a search but didn't find easily what i Need. What i need except Lockheed servo to replace P5 3 litre one with P5B one ? Does the P5B one is the same as P6B (i have one in my garage, more easy to test before buying an other one). Is there a post showing the conversion ? |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 31, 2018 10:27:22 GMT
The P6B one should be OK - you need to fabricate an extra steady bracket but bolt the servo to the old Girling bracket. The brake lines will need modifying too. The Lockheed servo is much simpler and easier to recondition but new ones are a better option in the long-term The top picture shows the extra bracket passing over the steering column to the inner wing. The linkage on the left is the automatic column change which takes up more room Attachments:
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Post by pierre19 on Mar 31, 2018 12:20:11 GMT
it seems to be easier to install on LHD cars without the steering column. I will try the new servo kit i receive today ; if it doesn't work, i will change for a Lockheed servo. Whatever happens, I will order copper pipe to adjust one but later. It's urgent i try to obtain contrôle technique (French mot).
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 31, 2018 14:54:52 GMT
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Post by djm16 on Apr 1, 2018 0:06:17 GMT
Another vote for doing away with the Girling 2b.
I am a stickler for originality, but after having the bl**dy thing out 4x, and it still was unreliable, I broke down and replaced it with a PBR universal (approximately 3:1) booster.
It was a very tight fit and required me to make a custom bracket. That took all day and two attempts. The problem was that the drum is larger the original.
PBR is the local Australian supplier / manufacturer.
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Post by pierre19 on Apr 5, 2018 18:04:05 GMT
Hello,
I have somme good news : with a new and recent Girling kit, the servo is OK. I could bleed the system easily and brakes seemed to be OK.
Except the rear right wheel that doesn't brake. I think it's a problem with the handbrake. Effectively, when i use it, the wheel stay stuck. I think it's the reason why somebody modify tunning so that the right rear wheel doesn't brake at all.
Worse, someone put some grease on the shoes...
I can unlock it by tapping on the linkage, there will be a "controle technique" (MOT) fault... An opinion ?
Other job to do : the clutch skates...
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 6, 2018 18:41:07 GMT
Excellent tip!
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Post by pierre19 on Apr 7, 2018 6:17:56 GMT
Thank you very much dicky . I understand well when it's written, it's more difficult to write without big mistakes or to speak All the brake parts are nearly news but i think garage made a bad work. Lot of things I check on the car had been restored by a professionnal (  ) but show approximations or poor work. I will have to do a big electrical job later... I prefer when things are like they have to be. I work on my cars since 15 years ago with good result even if i'm not professionnal. At begining, a friend who's very good mechanic engineer explain me important things. Forums development helped me more and more. I'm just limited by my lack of experience or the lack of details of the manuals instructions. Years after years, i bought tools and can know work on my car in very good conditions. But i have always a lot of things to learn... Thank you all again for your help. So, i will check if the wheel cylinder is able to move or "float" on the backplate and if not use "Thackery Washer 1/4". Where to put them, between wheel cylinder and the backplate ? |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 7, 2018 6:39:38 GMT
 The washers go under the nut and face the rear of the backplate - use 1/4" UNF Nylock nuts and do not tighten up to allow the cylinder to slide up and down without rocking. Have the shoes been fitted the wrong way round and the springs in the correct holes/positions? I hope the brake rod lengths adjustment has not been moved - these must be set to the exact lengths. The compensator on top of the axle should be free to swing easily. Properly set up the handbrake should be excellent Attachments:
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Post by pierre19 on Apr 7, 2018 6:59:51 GMT
i think it's OK but will compare with the help of your pictures.
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Post by pierre19 on Apr 7, 2018 12:57:03 GMT
Hello Dicky, I'm working with the Rover workshop manual but i didn't read anything about "the wheel cylinder has to be able to move or "float" on the backplate" and "Use a special washer called a Thackery Washer 1/4".  Something other : when i turn the adjustern i don't hear "clicks". This morning, i checked everything is at the good place but the rear hub seems not turned exactly like in your picture and the wheel cylinder can't "float". I cleaned the two cylinders and grease the moving parts, it seems to be OK for the control in 7 days ; i will buy Thackery washers and refit them floating.  |
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Post by petervdvelde on Apr 7, 2018 13:42:27 GMT
Hi Pierre, when i renewed rear wheel cylinders, i found the studs on the new cylinder rather short and i refitted the wheel cylinders with a normal washer and a lock nut which also works. You just have to adjust the lock nut a bit more precise so that it still floats but isn't too loose. thackery washers are not so easy to get but Brown and Gammons supply these in the correct size: www.ukmgparts.com/product/mid-midcat-5-submid50-bonnet-door-boot-fittings/thackery-washer-3-8-inch-ws600061The adjusters don't really "click" which is normal but you will notice the difference in tension in your spanner hand. Good luck. Its a nice car you have. Peter |
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Post by pierre19 on Apr 7, 2018 14:39:19 GMT
OK, thank, you Peter ; i thought buying washers at SNG barratt ; they supply me regurlarly Jaguar parts.
Other question please : Thackery washers... 3/8 or 1/4 ?
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Post by petervdvelde on Apr 7, 2018 18:08:15 GMT
OK, thank, you Peter ; i thought buying washers at SNG barratt ; they supply me regurlarly Jaguar parts. Other question please : Thackery washers... 3/8 or 1/4 ? 1/4 it is |
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) but show approximations or poor work. I will have to do a big electrical job later...
