Rover p5 1963 3 litre : work to do

[pierre19]

Since its purchased, I realized some works to easily obtain the technical control (french MOT).

After the brakes whose repair is almost finished (see thread servo brake failure)...

1/ I have to replace the clutch that skates. As you can see in the picture, the command has been modified.

I have what is necessary to return to the original assembly, slave cylinder, push rod cand if necessary clutch kit (disc and mecanism).

 I will try to adjust clutch pedal linkage before removing and replacing clutch disc.

Could you tell me the best way to do the job if i need to replace it ? Gearbox and engine in place . Removing engine ?
Is it easy to remove ? Is that easy to remove engine with the sub frame as an assembly and to refit it ? Are there any ingeniousness to know ?
What's the best way to replace clutch disc ?
(I have a car lift)

2/ I have some work to do with electricity.

- Does somebody can explain me what is the use of this part on the throttle control and how to connect it ? I read in the manual its related to the overdrive but i d'ont know whats the effect. On my car, wires are missing:



- the wiper motor runs badly, it doen't return at right normal parking position but return to the left. I never overhaul wiper engine before an don't know what i have to find.

3/ Suspension and steering : i think necessary to replace shock absorbers and control geometry.
Would you have a brand and part number to advise me ?

Thank you again for your help.

[pierre19]

I adjusted the clutch pedal linkage today without significant result. The car really need a new clutch disc.

I know now what is the part (question 2) : it's to prevent disengaging overdrive and avoid blows in transmissions (without accelerating)

[Phil Nottingham]

Correct about the overdrive switch.

I think the clutch on a P5 manual can be done from underneath by removing the gearbox or from above by removing the heavy engine or bthe complete gearbox and engine as one unit.

I have never tried this - only on auto's where the whole unit must be removed.  

I cannot see the point in removing the subframe first unless you need to do work on it or on the bodywork.  I will however just unbolt from its 6 mounts after undoing all cables/links and prop shaft.  Then you have a problem of lifting the front of the car high enough to wheel it out from underneath.  Quite possible if you have the lifting equipment.

The Clutch plate and pressure plate must be replaced.  The release bearing rarely wears

[pierre19]

Tiday, my P5 obtained the technical control. rear brake are ok !

The big problem to drive the car is the clutch. I wonder if there's not an oil leak to crankshat bearing. Is that a hard job to do when the engine is removed ?

[Phil Nottingham]

No and its easier with the engine out

[pierre19]

I restarted work on my P5 last days.

My goals : diagnose clutch problem ; it slips a lot, it's impossible to use the car.

I choose option not to remove engine and gearbox. So, i needed to remove overdrive easy job after removing gearbox tunnel cover. After removing gearbox, i could remove flywheel. There was old dirt ans old oil, but it was not easy to check from where the oil come.

So, i cleaned  everything and restart engine with flywheel in place. After 45min, i don't find any oil leak.

So, as Stef told me, i oriented my research on clutch withdrawal housing joint. it's now cleaned, i'm waiting for some paper seal and will refit a new clutch plate.

Next work : repair the reverse safety, i think a part is missing on my car.

[enigmas]

Pierre19...I'm not sure it was mentioned, but do have the flywheel face resurfaced. You do not want a glazed or grooved surface working against a new clutch plate. A correctly surfaced flywheel provides the best friction properties for the clutch plate. Do check the thrust bearing carefully...the internal grease may well have dried out...they do wear and become noisy. And having one self destruct would destroy the pressure plate face at best! The last thing you need is to have to remove the gearbox after a few months use due to the thrust bearing failing. Better to replace it for peace of mind.

Also don't forget to add a smear of high temp grease to the clutch shaft spigot bush if that's what this car runs, otherwise you may get a high pitched squeal/noise from the bush at a latter time.

Lightly smear high melting point grease on anything or any part of the bellhousing clutch mechanism that slides or pivots.

It's also worth checking the condition of the engine rear main seal whilst you have access to it...although you seem to have checked this by running the engine with the gearbox removed.

[pierre19]

Thank you enigmas

[harvey]

The Rover P6 manual boxes have a similar release bearing housing, and on very rare occasions I have had it where the bearing has worn the housing, causing it to stick sometimes because the bearing goes a bit cockeyed, so I'd check that as well.

[pierre19]

I have to remove gearbox on my P6 (3500S and 2200TC) to control leaks. I will control these bearings.

[bigj]

Hi

Could I ask you to measure the diameter of the centre hole in the crankshaft flange where the flywheel bolts to it please?

BR
Joe

[pierre19]

Hi Joe,

I refitted all the parts last week, i just need now to repair the overdrive electrical wire.

But i can tell you the dimensions of the tool used to center the clutch, a part is inserted in that hole.

I'm not at home today, i tell you that as soon as possible.

[bigj]

May 21, 2018 7:18:51 GMT pierre19 said:

Hi Joe,

I refitted all the parts last week, i just need now to repair the overdrive electrical wire.

But i can tell you the dimensions of the tool used to center the clutch, a part is inserted in that hole.

I'm not at home today, i tell you that as soon as possible.

Cheers, that’s much appreciated.

[Ken Nelson]

Pierre, I believe the overdrive switch on your car is used to disengage the overdrive when the car slows down enough, so that when accelerating again you will have regular 4th gear until the accelerator linkage advances far enough for the switch to close again. There is a cam on the linkage that opens and closes the inhibitor switch. On my P5 this o/d inhibitor switch kept jamming on itself due to excessive wear and I finally removed it and just joined the 2 wires together. Now when I am in 4th gear overdrive it stays engaged no matter what the speed/accelerator linkage setting is. It doesn't really cause any problem that way for me.

[pierre19]

Thank you Ken, i now can understand how it works.

Joe, sorry just to answer you today, but my garage is not at home and i had a lot of work this week.

I'm sorry... i don't remember for sure the tool i used (i'm working on 4 cars at the same time). They are in a set box.
I think it's the 19.75 mm one but I'm not sure at all (it was a tool at the extremity of the box, so, the smaller or the bigger.
I used an inexpensive tool set to center the clutch. With these tools it's very easy.
An other way is to use an axle surrounded by adhesive tape to fit the diameter.
I hope that help you

[pierre19]

Some news ; I decided to go to the Grand Prix de l'Age d'Or in Dijon from June 8 to 10.

I had to fix some details like a leak in the fuel tank gauge, i renewed the carburettor and checked ignition, changed heating valve and hoses, cleaned cooling system etc etc ...

I did about 1300 km, but the trip back in the rain highlighted some ignition problems.

I think i need to replace ignition leads but I wonder if fiting electronic ignition I wonder if mounting an electronic ignition system would not be the best solution.

Do you know the Powerspark reference -or other- for the 3 litre engine ?

I really enjoyed the comfort and silence of the car even if it remains to correct air noises at the door seals.