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Post by RichardF on Jan 23, 2007 16:11:04 GMT
I am undecided at present as to which way, and how far, to go regarding areas on my P5b that require re-paint. Whichever way I go though, I will need to know what paint is on there already. I'm certain it's been resprayed in the past. As I am not familiar with paint types, can anyone tell me how I could carry out a test to determine what paint type may go on top? At this moment, I would like to defer a bare metal spray to another time. Years ago I remember you could not put cellulose on top of synthetic but vice-versa was okay. I also imagine there are more types of paint out there that I don't even know about. Regards to all. Richard Southampton
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Post by dorsetflyer on Jan 23, 2007 16:24:40 GMT
Richard, if you intend to just touch in smallish areas or say a half panel then you can use cellulose satisfactorily. Cellulose will go over any other paint without any problem. However other types of paint like two pack and acrylic will not take properly over cellulose. When it comes to a total bare metal re-spray, then two pack or a water based paint will come into play, but of course fume extraction is a must, and in the case of water base paints a source of heat will be required to enable it to flash off.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 23, 2007 17:54:35 GMT
Looks like the beginning of an interesting (for me at any rate! thread! Can you still get a "sealer" primer that goes over old paint to form a) a barrier in between the different types b) a key for the new coats Also, those panel edges with chips and divots out of them. What (apart from bare metalling them and feathering the edge) can be done? Will a high build primer take that amount of abuse?
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Post by RichardF on Jan 23, 2007 18:42:13 GMT
Dorsetflyer, Many thanks for the info. Looks like cellulose for what I want to do. Many thanks Richard Southampton
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 23, 2007 20:10:28 GMT
If you want to cover up a lot of unevenness there is a product called Reface it is a spray filler and will go over anything used a lot by the guys who have big flat panels to do like RR If the car is done in 2K I wouldn't consider using cellulose you will not be able to blow/fade in in a small area without seeing the blow marks when you polish it.
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Post by dorsetflyer on Jan 23, 2007 20:25:18 GMT
I would think that the easiest option on all edges would be to rub down until completely smooth and then undercoat. I doubt if a high build primer would replace the rubbing down process.
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Post by dorsetflyer on Jan 23, 2007 20:32:05 GMT
If you had two pack paint on the car, I think it would be difficult to blow in small patches using two pack. It would probably mean redoing the whole panel to get an even finish. I must go and see the paint specialist who I get my paint from, as he's very clued up on this subject.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 23, 2007 20:32:20 GMT
Its impossible to fade in cellulose into 2 pack even if you get aprecise colour match there is no guarantee it will not fade differently and in bound to do and there will always be a line. its best to find a clean panel break/chrome strip and mask off to do the whole section.
Cellulose will go over two pack with no probs - others, particularly synthetic enamels need an isolator. I use Barcoat. Its reday mixed and only a very thin fast drying coat is needed. It saved a lot of work on my P2 which had a mixture of paints on it
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 23, 2007 21:19:00 GMT
It is possible to smart repair 2k with the correct fade in thinners and a light scotchbrite used in the right way personaly I would redo the whole panel and hope the colour matches when I sprayed my old girl I made sure I had 2 litres at least left of the same mix good luck which ever way you go Richard I am sure you will sort it
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Post by RichardF on Jan 24, 2007 14:19:21 GMT
Guys,
Many thanks for all the inputs.
Regards Richard Southampton
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