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Post by djm16 on Nov 17, 2018 0:57:54 GMT
I am prepping a replacement wing for my 3-litre and have gone to great lengths to strip and de-rust inside the wing. The original paint / primer was red and astonishingly abrasion resistant. There was a lot of rust underneath it though.
Suggestions as to what to use. I have to get something on today, so I was going to throw on a modest coat of 1-pack epoxy etch-primer first so that it does not start rusting again with the rain expected tomorrow.
How about something tougher to go on top (before the underseal).
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Post by enigmas on Nov 17, 2018 10:23:14 GMT
I am prepping a replacement wing for my 3-litre and have gone to great lengths to strip and de-rust inside the wing. The original paint / primer was red and astonishingly abrasion resistant. There was a lot of rust underneath it though. Suggestions as to what to use. I have to get something on today, so I was going to throw on a modest coat of 1-pack epoxy etch-primer first so that it does not start rusting again with the rain expected tomorrow. How about something tougher to go on top (before the underseal). If you want a protective coating for under/inside area of the mudguard then POR15 is ideal. www.ardonmarine.com.au/product/por-15-rust-preventive-paint/ |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 17, 2018 15:26:12 GMT
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Post by djm16 on Nov 19, 2018 7:15:53 GMT
POR15.
Yes, I came to that conclusion too. None availalbe locally on a Sunday morning, and as the weather was getting damper I wanted to get a coat on. So I bought some KBS urethane chassis black, similar to POR15 according to some, and just as extortionate a price - $30 for 250 ml.
This stuff is horrible to apply. It is just as well that it will never be seen underneath a coat of underseal. No doubt it is possible to apply it well to bare metal prepped with their various (expensive) prepping agents, but it is nominally suitable to apply over a coat of primer too.
Bear in mind that this wing was meticulously prepared with stripper, wire brush, abrading disk and sanding flap disk, followed by a thorough cleaning with general purpose paint thinners, before a careful 3 coats of etch primer.
I sprayed some KBS on, just a tack coat, and I have never seen so many fish eyes. Wiping an area clean and respraying just gave the same result. I did manage to get the stuff on in the end, but only with a brush to brush out the 10,000 fisheyes.
The other thing it does is create micro bubbles where the paint is a bit thick.
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Post by enigmas on Nov 19, 2018 7:40:53 GMT
I use POR15 on the Vespa body scooter rebuilds I do and it works very well on the rust prone interior sections. My coating method is primarily with a brush or I just literally pour it in then spread it. It will find its way to seams and literally work its through. A small quantity goes a long way in my experience with the product. It's nothing like a 2 pak paint system but will accept these systems when dry. These cast iron clawed bath legs (below) were were done about 8 weeks ago with POR15. My wife takes the credit. They were cleaned with a rotary wire brush attachment in an electric drill, dusted off then painted. They are to be over painted with an enamel paint before being fitted to the bath. Definitely no paint application problems with fish-eyes or other adhesion issues.  PS. They are quite dusty as they are resting on an outside work bench but under cover. The item on the right is not required for the project. The state of the uncleaned cast iron can be readily seen. The recommendation for POR15 is to bare steel that has some tooth...no slippery or shiny surfaces...and no primer between it and the surface being coated. |
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