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Post by tarnowl on Nov 4, 2020 14:51:19 GMT
View AttachmentWell, she's off on her way for a bit of pampering. Getting rid of all those rusty rotten bits and replacing them with new metal. It'll be a long job, but the time has come to 'Grasp the Nettle'. All bits bagged and boxed awaiting her return. Take care...... The normal problems are now being addressed. Inner, centre and outer sills.
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Post by tarnowl on Nov 4, 2020 15:01:17 GMT
Rear catch boxes are a bit of a mess!😳. Amazing what lurks under nicely painted facade.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 5, 2020 9:28:56 GMT
Quite usual - a terrible rust trap there
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Post by lagain on Nov 8, 2020 16:10:05 GMT
Took my lovely coupe for the last run of the year last week, just before the roads were gritted for the first time. She is now up on axle stands, washed and polished and with the wheels cleaned inside and out and stacked up in the corner of the garage. I always stack them shiny side down so that any damp does not sit on the chrome - not that there is any damp in my garage, if anything it is too dry, ecpecially if I turn up the storage heater I also keep the spare wheel shiny side down under the boot, about 40 years ago she spent the winter in a damp garage and when I looked at the spare in the spring there was corrosion on it, fortunately the rest of the car was OK thanks to lots of Waxoyl.
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dmaxwell
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Post by dmaxwell on Nov 9, 2020 19:47:55 GMT
Here are the before and after views of the passenger front seat. David California Attachments:
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Post by dmaxwell on Nov 17, 2020 19:35:12 GMT
Well, I got some things done this last weekend. Got my replacement clutch slave cylinder and installed it only to find that the bellcrank I had made was made from material too thin and it bends way too easily! Spent a good part of Saturday cutting, wielding and drilling to make a new bellcrank from much thicker steel and I think it is working though I am going to pull the transmission tunnel cover from the inside of the cart so I can see what happens when I press the clutch pedal! Doesn't quite feel right but without being able to see what is happening, I can't tell if it is working or not! I'm adding a modern stereo so spent more time mounting some speakers below the parcel shelf and wiring up the power and sound. Just need to bolt the stereo unit itself to the parcel shelf. I think I've got the rest of the parts I need and with a little luck I should get the car running by the end of the month!!! It is nice to be able to see the light at the end of the tunnel (sure hope it isn't a train!). I'm taking this coming Friday off and of course for us on the left side of the pond, next week is the four day weekend for Thanksgiving so I should have plenty of time to get it all done. Thanks for listening to me and my saga!
David California
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Post by tarnowl on Nov 19, 2020 19:10:34 GMT
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Post by dmaxwell on Nov 23, 2020 19:21:55 GMT
I got some progress made this weekend. Hooked up the battery and the headlights came in. None of the controls had any effect so I disconnected the battery leads so it wouldn't discharge. I think that when I worked on the turn indicator switch, I messed up the wiring somehow! I did take the car off the jackstands it has been resting on for 22 years. Cleaned up the garage a bit too. With the four day Thanksgiving weekend coming up on Thursday, I hope to get the light sorted out and maybe even try to start the engine!
David California
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2020 11:40:22 GMT
I decided to change the door rubbers. The first thing I did was make some large bogeys from Dum Dum and stick them round the door aperture. These flatted out in some places,I undid hinges and shimmed them or moved them up and down until the door was central with the door gaps all reasonably the same size. I removed the stainless steel finishers on top of the sills and the corner piece at the bottom/front of the door. Each stood proud and by bending the plate behind the corner piece and flattening the screw holes on the sill plates and a few taps with a mallet they fitted flush. I undid the screws to the stainless steel window frame and was able to get it to fit better.This was the longest part of the job taking a full day. I replaced the top seal as per the picture. No glue,then the two side seals,I left them a bit too long them cut the joins with a very sharp blade. These were glued with a strong impact adhesive,super glue doesn't work (or didn't for me). Impact glue works well if its applied as a sealing coat and allowed to dry totally,then a second coat on each surface with the rubbers pushed together as it becomes tacky. I found doing it this way gives a join that will hold well. The rubbers on the actual door body were fitted dry to make sure they sealed well and the door closed. They were then glued in place,and residue from the manufacturing process was removed with thinners. The doors shut with a nice thud,and very little pressure. Fitting the top rubber. The top rubbers all fitted.
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Post by tarnowl on Nov 28, 2020 14:06:43 GMT
A little light lacework requires a bit of attention!😳 However, we have managed to get rid of a lot of expanded foam that had been used to block all the holes! Now my expert has to fabricate some new parts to replace all the damage. Attachment Deleted
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 28, 2020 14:52:56 GMT
I thought our Coupe was bad in that area! Quite a mess with that foam too. Not a sensible idea
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Post by dmaxwell on Nov 30, 2020 19:30:09 GMT
Got some more done over the Thanksgiving weekend (4 days!). Had to replace the entire 14 feet of fuel line from the fuel pump in the boot all the way to the engine! After 25 years, the old hose had hardened to the point where I couldn't tighten the hose clamp to stop the leaking! The engine is running pretty good now. Having a problem with the clutch. The Chevy transmission was intended to have a mechanical linkage and the Rover is hydraulic so I had made a "L" shaped link that was activated by a Jaguar clutch slave cylinder to push against the lever that pushes against the pressure plate. Well, I'm not getting enough movement to disengage the pressure plate. I've got an idea to fix it but might not get to it until this coming weekend. Once I get the clutch working, I'll be able to take it out for a drive!
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Post by Steed on Dec 3, 2020 12:51:33 GMT
Hi and welcome.
Nice car.
A V6 ??
Any more photos?
Andy
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Post by Steed on Dec 3, 2020 12:55:32 GMT
Looks like your missing the chrome trims on front and rear screens?
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Post by Sam Bee on Dec 3, 2020 19:05:01 GMT
Hey Steve, just seen this so belay the post about club inspection on another thread.
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Post by djm16 on Dec 5, 2020 0:12:58 GMT
Welcome to the stately world of 3-litres. Much more civilized than those vulgar P5Bs with their Rostyles and roaring engines. (Do I have to put a smiley in here to indicate gentle irony?).
As to value? A car is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. However as a guide, I paid $3000 for my original (and quite poor condition, but little rust) 1963 3-litre coupe. A very good condition un-modded 3-litre saloon might go for $20,000 to the right buyer.
But the purchase price of my 3-litre is dwarfed by the cost of the parts needed to rebuild the engine. So saying $3000 is cheap might be misleading.
So forget the purchase price, expect to spend many thousands more over the years, and enjoy driving in the lap of luxury.
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Post by Steed on Dec 5, 2020 11:07:03 GMT
Where's the smiley? !!
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Post by Ken Nelson on Dec 5, 2020 17:25:50 GMT
This one below cost me $100. After a dozen years or so, hundreds of hours of work and perhaps $5-6,000 invested, it looks like this with all new sill assemblies, 'new' rust free fenders, rebuilt motor and brakes and instruments and rear axle seals, complete repaint, new carpets, extensive underbody rust repair and patches of new metal, electrical work, new suspension bushes and rear springs and tires, and Volvo power steering conversion, it looks like the next picture:
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Post by dmaxwell on Dec 8, 2020 14:21:15 GMT
Well, I took a 3 day weekend to get some more work done on the P5. Finally figured out that I had the wrong throughout bearing arm, which is why the clutch would never disengage! Went to some wrecking yards yesterday and found one that looks like it is going to work. Cleaned it up (covered with surface rust from sitting in a barrel for a few years outside) and got it installed along with the transmission yesterday afternoon. Just need to reinstall the driveshaft, tunnel cover and carpet to see if it will work and take the car out for a short test drive this coming weekend. I still have a problem with the panel lights not working, turn indicators not working and the wipers working whenever the the battery is hooked up! Always something to do!
David California
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Post by dmaxwell on Dec 15, 2020 19:26:27 GMT
Worked on all weekend trying to get the clutch to disengage. Pulled the transmission and bell housing, found the throw out bearing wasn't attached to the arm that moves it! Fixed that but once it all got put back in the car, the arm is right up against the exhaust pipe so I can't get it a lever in there to move the arm to move the bearing. This was later in the day on Sunday and around 9PM Sunday it dawned on me that I could pull the bearing arm instead of pushing it! I can see what I have to do in my head but won't be able to get to it until Saturday morning. I did notice that one of the wires for the heater fan had broken off so that's probably why the fan doesn't run! Easy fix but will have to wait until the weekend also. Will keep you all posted. I've also found a 1960 P5 Automatic in San Diego that's been for sale for about a year. Needs a paint job but it would be nice to have one that is original. Thinking I might go down there in March and see what it really looks like. Of course, I still need to have the transmission in my truck rebuilt first (so I can tow the car back if I buy it!) and that might not be done until after March.
David California
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Post by dmaxwell on Dec 21, 2020 19:16:09 GMT
I finally figured out why I can't disengage the clutch! I have the wrong bell housing for the clutch (sold to me with the engine 10 to 15 years ago at a wreaking yard). What I need to find is a bell housing with a hydraulic slave cylinder to move the throw out bearing with. The Chevy S-10 small pickup trucks had that as the exhaust from the V6 did not allow for enough space for an arm to stick out from the side of the bell housing. So it's off to the wreaking yards to see what I can find! Ah yes, the joy of modifying cars and making them work the way we want them to! At least this weekend I was able to get the panel lights working along with the heater fan so it wasn't a complete loss of time.
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Post by Warwick on Dec 26, 2020 5:24:48 GMT
.... at a wreaking yard. .... Was that a typo, David, or a judgemental comment?
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Post by dmaxwell on Dec 28, 2020 13:44:10 GMT
Well, here in the States, they are usually called wreaking yards. Or at least that's what I've always called them. I think because most of the cars in the yards have been in accidents and thereby are "wrecked"! I think that in the UK (and maybe in other english speaking countries) that they are called breaking yards (?).
David California
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Post by Sam Bee on Dec 28, 2020 18:09:22 GMT
Usually 'car breakers'. or 'scrap yards'.
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