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Post by enigmas on Apr 1, 2022 10:03:58 GMT
I look forward to your efforts/results with the transmission pan tarnowl. You will need access to a flat surface and do use a .010" feeler gauge to ensure an even flat surface exist around the flange mating face.
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Post by tarnowl on Apr 1, 2022 15:09:09 GMT
The replacement of my transmission pan gasket is someway off at the moment, but thanks for the advice……..Meanwhile, back in the body shop, jobs are slowly getting ticked off the list. Firstly, the RH front windscreen frame needs a repair. The before and after photos below show the progress. Following the alignment being checked using the old windscreen, the new parts can be welded in place. Attachment DeletedFollowing this, the front wings reveal their problems beneath the multiple coats of paint! 😱. Some work needed here methinks!😩
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Post by tarnowl on Apr 1, 2022 15:11:03 GMT
More on the rear of the front RH wing!😩
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 4, 2022 12:35:40 GMT
Well, this weekend was productive in some ways and not in others! I got the new transmission mounted in the car with a new rear mounting fabricated. The drive shaft was installed but it seems that even with the transmission in gear, I could rotate the driveshaft! This was puzzling to me so after taking a break on Sunday afternoon, I removed the drive shaft and pulled the transmission out of the car. What I found was that I had adjusted the aftermarket center throwout bearing assembly improperly and it was pressing on the clutch all the time! I did some measuring and got the adjustment correct. By this time, I had to stop as it was getting late in the day. So, next Saturday, I'll reinstall the transmission, drive shaft, tunnel cover, carpeting, taking care to do it all correctly. This is why I don't work on other peoples cars!
David California
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 11, 2022 12:31:52 GMT
Turned out to be a good weekend. I got the transmission back in the car, driveshaft installed, carpet and shift lever installed along with the shift book. Car runs pretty good so far. Ran out of time so will have to wait for next weekend to take it out for a drive.
David California
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Post by enigmas on Apr 11, 2022 13:35:15 GMT
Good luck with the gearbox repair/reinstall David. It's not really a fun weekend job! Just ensure that you have the thrust bearing clear of the pressure plate (when at rest)...otherwise you'll be removing the gearbox once again and much sooner than later, if the bearing remains slightly engaged.
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 11, 2022 15:11:23 GMT
I made sure the thrust bearing was adjusted properly before I slipped in the transmission. The clutch engages and disengages properly now!
David California
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 14, 2022 20:35:27 GMT
Well, I drove the car earlier than I had planned. Got the truck back from the shop and it run well but a bit on hot side and the oil pressure is lower than it should be! So I've been driving the Rover to and from work these last 2 days. Runs good but the speedometer has stopped working. I had noticed that the new speedometer drive in transmission needed a smaller diameter cable than the one in the older transmission. I thought I had it fixed but I didn't! So, I should have the correct size cable waiting for me on the way home at the auto parts shop and I'm taking my usual 3rd Friday of the month off from work so I'll have the time to install it (along with changing the oil in the truck and changing the coolant temp sensor). Plus the wild grass is growing, well like weeds and that needs to attended to! Always lots to do (especially when all the cars are from the first half of the '60s)!!
David California
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Apr 18, 2022 7:28:11 GMT
Interesting topic, whether a thrust bearing should spin all the time or not. When I read your comment about this Vince, my initial reaction was that this was wrong but it seems that it depends on the design of the system. I had some problems with an industrial clutch years ago and the advice from SKF for that application was that part of the issue was if the bearing had to accelerate from stationary to flywheel speed 60 times per minute this created a vibration as the balls located in the races which was detrimental. However on looking at my WSM, the 3 litre clutch is designed to have clearance however this is a deep groove ball bearing so will have less clearance than a ball thrust bearing. After a bit of googling, I came across a Mustang forum that seemed to be having a rather acrimonious debate on the topic. If the link below works, it should go to what seems like a fairly expert opinion. But it does seem that clearance or not is a bit dependent on the vehicle. www.clubcobra.com/forums/transmission-talk/103889-throw-out-bearing-always-makes-contact-4.html#post1052935Hopefully some useful information.
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Post by enigmas on Apr 18, 2022 11:11:06 GMT
Hi Martin, when my good wife and I both drove manual gear selected cars, I was always asking her to, "not rest her foot on the clutch pedal (dear!)." I had no interest in spending my weekends removing a gearbox to replace a $25 clutch thrust bearing. Thank God for automatics, as I don't believe she ever broke the habit. I 've replaced quite a few noisy and rattly thrust bearings over the years, primarily in Triumphs and Fords. 1950 and 60s BMC cars using carbon thrust bearings were another joy! As far as my experiences are concerned, clutch thrust bearings don't last like wheel bearings. Nor can they be easily removed for servicing with fresh grease. I like to setup a clutch thrust bearing so that it is just minimally off the face of its running pad on the pressure plate. It's a quite a hostile environment within the bell housing of a manual transmission car. Yes, there's an enlightened comment early on by one of the contributors about advances in thrust bearing design, but I don't have a modern 6 speed manual trans in anything I own to test the longevity or not of the working life of modern thrust bearings. I generally do hundreds of thousands of kilometers in my cars and don't trade them in at 80,000 kilometers, like many do today or as soon as the warranty is void. The cost at a workshop/dealership to remove and/or repair modern transmissions in cars today is astronomical. Woe betide anyone with a modern 6 speed automatic or manual transmission that needs repair or removal. I find this post below quite amusing from the link you provided Martin. I would soon as cut my right arm off rather than take that transmission out again. If I get a few years out of this set up I will be happy. I almost went back to the hydraulic throw out set up.
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 18, 2022 18:17:20 GMT
I got the speedometer working this weekend. Found that the size cable needed a the transmission end was different than what was needed at the Speedometer end. Did some measuring, cutting and soldering (used acid cord solder) and it works now (and appears to be pretty accurate too)! I've been also having problems with the bonnet popping loose from the latch while I've driving down the road. Spend some time adjusting this and that over the weekend and it seems to be staying latched now. So far it looks like my trip up to Wyoming in May and to Oklahoma in June should go okay.
David California
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 22, 2022 21:31:07 GMT
Had a pretty good week using the Rover as a daily driver. The Speed part of the speedometer is acting up a little. Sticking from time to time. Picked up some sewing machine oil (mineral oil) to try on it this weekend. If I remember right, that is what should be used on it. Other oils will gum up and cause other problems. We'll see what happens!!
David California
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 29, 2022 12:40:06 GMT
I pulled the speedometer out of the car last weekend and lightly oiled the "speed" moving parts, put it back together and I think I've done it some good. It still wavers about from and from time to time the needle stops moving altogether. It's been getting better as the week progressed, especially when it has warmed up outside (at 4000' it drops down to the high 40 degrees F but down in the San Joaquin Valley, it gets up to the mid 70s by the time I go home). I think I'll let it do it's thing over the next few weeks and see what happens.
David California
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Post by dhb5610 on Apr 30, 2022 9:14:29 GMT
Today I've given the Rover a good clean and polish before the first show of the year Crow Nest Park Dewsbury always a good day and a chance to catch up with some folk
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 2, 2022 16:01:18 GMT
It was a lovely day so had a run not far due to ongoing spine trouble! fancied the coast but thought of the long ques of traffic on the way home :-(
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Post by enigmas on May 2, 2022 22:33:53 GMT
Had a pretty good week using the Rover as a daily driver. The Speed part of the speedometer is acting up a little. Sticking from time to time. Picked up some sewing machine oil (mineral oil) to try on it this weekend. If I remember right, that is what should be used on it. Other oils will gum up and cause other problems. We'll see what happens!! David California Nix the oil as lubrication for the speedo cable, if this is part of your repair option and use graphite powder after throughly cleaning the cable of oil residue. It will run as smooth as silk. 😎👍 Method: Pour some graphite powder into the palm of your hand and pull the cable slowly through it. Yes you will end up with a black palm.
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Post by dmaxwell on May 3, 2022 12:23:11 GMT
Thanks for tip! My problem has been with the Speedometer itself, not the cable. It does seem to be working better so far since I put the drops of mineral oil on the bearings for the speed needle, seems to have taken a few days of use to work the oil into where it needs to be!
David California
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Post by 3litrekiwi on May 4, 2022 6:50:12 GMT
I bought a new speedo cable from JRW a while ago and found it to be about a foot longer than the one in the car. I emailed John to let him know that I felt it was probably more suited to a LHD car. There is no difference in the part numbers though. I resolved the wobbly needle more or less by buying a new inner however it is a bit smaller diameter so there is still a bit of vibration between the inner and outer at low speeds. I also has to make some ends and sweat them on. On a recent forage through our club spares I found a number of complete new cables, both complete cables and some inners. I grabbed one of the complete cables in original packaging but was a bit disappointed to find that it was also longer than the one in the car. These both need to loop over the inlet manifold under the air cleaner. The current one in the car follows the fire wall nicely down to the gearbox. I would imagine that the manual /OD setup is the furthest from point A to B. The club store is open again this weekend so I will be returning the cable and having a look through the inners for a shorter one. The length of my cable is 2m whereas both the JRW one and the original in the packaging is 2.3m. On a different note, I bought a 1980's new, in the box radio cassette that I was going to fit with a blue tooth gadget in the aerial circuit for some functionality a year or so ago. On reflection this was not really going to look right anyway and was more hassle than it would have been worth so I decided to fit a modern head unit which I am quite pleased with. My car came with a centre glove box and no radio/speaker unit and I have been unable to source one. So I made this: Attachment DeletedI could only fit two 70w 3.5" speakers in the space but it sounds ok. I made a panel from ply and covered it with speaker cloth rather than trying to make the louvered original. I may have a go at that later. If a future owner doesn't like it they can revert to the glove box as it is all bolt in.
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Post by z900rs on May 4, 2022 22:33:42 GMT
Took my P5B Coupe to a local show on Sunday, met up with fellow member Derek Gaunt with his P5B Saloon, managed to get parked together for a photo, two P5s get 10 out of 10.
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Post by PeterMadden on May 5, 2022 17:46:41 GMT
Looking good, nice with the roof open!
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Post by dmaxwell on May 9, 2022 13:51:08 GMT
My speedometer is working fine now. Took about a week for the mineral oil to work into the places it needed to be but the needle is keeping good speed without jittering all over the place anymore!
David California
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Post by Mike’S-a-loon on May 9, 2022 17:29:02 GMT
Hopefully it doesn't work it's way up into the speedo and spray the inside!
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Post by lagain on May 10, 2022 19:22:45 GMT
Dry for 48 hours, no, not me, the Rover's gearbox sump. Taking Enigmas advice (thanks) I took the file to the mating surface of the pan. All the bolt holes were raised, with 1 being about a mm, took me about an hour before I was happy with it, then used a composite gasket, which I dressed, from ebay with steel support plate that the bolts go through to give a more even pressure and so far so good. Will now have another go at the engine sump, but it seems that cork gaskets are not the quality they once were.
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Post by dmaxwell on May 16, 2022 18:46:22 GMT
Well, I took the Rover out on a road trip this weekend. I had a great niece graduate from College at Laramie, Wyoming on Saturday so I left work on Thursday afternoon around 3PM, loaded the card with an icechest full of food and a suitcase with clothes and headinged down (or up) the road. Drove overnight and got to Laramie about 1,000 miles away the next morning. I was very pleased to get 20 MPG for the entire trip! Car ran good with no problems. Headed back Sunday morning (very early) and got 23 MPG for two of the fillups!! Not really sure why, had slight headwinds which should have decreased the mileage rather than increase it! Got home Sunday evening and drove the car to work today!
I'm looking forward to the drive to Oklahoma (1300 miles each way) for a family reunion of the extended cousins near the end of June.
David California
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 16, 2022 21:29:23 GMT
Great you using it to the full - probably the reason the vg MPG improved (is this US gallons though?)
Most P5/P5b owners in the UK would baulk at a 60 mile round trip
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