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Post by Smallfry on Aug 21, 2023 22:24:52 GMT
You can get the vehicle history from DVLA on payment of a fee. Will list all previous owners.
At least you could a couple of years ago, cost £10 ISTR.
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Post by lagain on Sept 10, 2023 20:46:44 GMT
Drove 650 miles from home in Sussex to Inverness, an easy drive but very hot. Got stuck in traffic for about 20 minutes but the antique Kenlowe fan kept her under control. She does not use so much oil since I stopped most of the leaks, the worst one from the fuel pump.
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Post by lagain on Sept 16, 2023 19:58:26 GMT
Safely home today from a very enjoyable week in Scotland. She only missed a couple of beats, one was at Inverewe Gardens when the window regulator for the driver's window jammed, fortunately with the window up. The first thing I did when I got home was to look in my wardrobe to see if I had a spare and luckily I have one. No idea if it is a remanufactured or an original, but it had £60 on it ! Hope to fit it next week.
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Post by enigmas on Sept 16, 2023 22:38:58 GMT
It's good to read that your trip went well and without any major mishaps or hiccups George. As an aside, when you remove the faulty window regulator can you post your observations and perhaps a picture or two if it's relevant to the failed part of the mechanism. The regulators in my MK3 coupe are original and work very smoothly yet I've read in previous posts of issues with the regulators.
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Sept 17, 2023 17:35:06 GMT
Took out the clutch master cylinder from my MK II 1964, which has been in hibernation for the last 40 years. The clutch system is completely dry, with an oil-like residue in the clutch fluid reservoir and considerable corrosion of the aluminum housing. The cap is rusted. When putting fresh brake fluid it turns from amber to black instantly. No pressure after introducing brake fluid, and no fluid coming out of neither the delivery-side pipeline flange nor the banjo.
Built out completely, and stripped the master pump. Incredible amounts of gunk and old residue removed from the outside and the rubber cap. After compression the piston several times, with the C-clip removed, and scraping off residue, the piston came out. Cleaned out the entire pump, polished the outside and removed rust from the cap. Reassembled the whole pump and put the c-clip back into place. Renewed the rubber dust cover, which was totally wasted.
Mounted the pump back into position. Now the pump delivers pressure into the pipeline as it should.
Next job is to belled the system - there is a bleedscrew on the clutch slave cylinder.
That will be for another day :-)
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Post by lagain on Sept 22, 2023 20:10:34 GMT
I have now replaced the window regulator with a new old stock, although I think that it may be a re-manufactured part. The problem with the old one was wear and tear. On the other end of the handle the operating rod fits into a hole in the casing and the hole had enlarged over the years, causing the angle of the gear to move and jam ! It could be that the regulators in the Mk 3 were better quality.
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Oct 12, 2023 21:42:07 GMT
I acquired a 1969 P5B Saloon Black exterior /saddle tan interior LHD in the Netherlands last year, and commissioned it to the garage run by Mr.Berry Smink. Has workshop lies in Amersfoort, close to Amsterdam.
Instructions was to bring the Rover back to life, and to perform various modifications & improvements that I had specified.
This car is chassis no. 183, and was registered first time May 8th 1969 to the Management of the luxury department store De Bijenkorf in Amsterdam.
If we count those owners that have used the car, I consider myself to be the third owner since new.
By coincidence, the car was displayed to the Owner and his wife, whom took the car over from De Bijenkorf. They both had fond memories of holidays with the Rover to Italy in the 1970'ies.
Only 402 cars of the P5B with left hand drive were ever made - quite a few have not survived.
The P5 LHD is now an "endangered species" in that it is so rare - it is important to rescue those that can still be salvaged.
As it is, my car has been in layup since about 1980 and covered 54.000 km. from new.
After a substantial amount of work was put into it, I picked it up last week and drove to Oslo, Norway which is its new home. Customs and import duties paid, so only vehicle inspection / MOT is required before I can apply Norwegian number plates.
In Norway I know of only one other P5B LHD Saloon, which also is residing in Oslo - no doubt a rendez vous will be set up with the owner next year. There is a P5B Coupe imported from Switzerland that was sold about 2 years ago to a domestic buyer.
My car was a little nervous on the road when I set out on my journey to Oslo and would not keep a steady line. However after 30-45 minutes driving the car had bedded itself in, and has steady on its course ever since.
Leaving Amsterdam about noon, I passed Hamburg about 18:00 and arrived in Frederikshavn, Denmark about 23:00. Had to press on to make it to Frederikshavn in time, so maintained an average speed of 130 KPH (70 MPH) at 3000 RPM.
Spent the night in a hotel and took the ferry to Gothenburg the next day.
I rolled off the ferry in Sweden wearing a broad smile and Beach Boys playing over the period radio. This is an item upgraded to far better sound quality, and fitted with a Bluetooth dongle courtesy of Mr. Phil Jones.
The journey was made in mostly sunny conditions with protracted heavy rain and wind gusts from the side.
I arrived Oslo later in the day, having covered 1250 km.
The car performed flawlessly, thanks to the skills and dedication or Mr. Smink - my sincere thanks go to him and his team of Rover-o-philes !
Just like Jon Wadhams, Berry help us keep The Rover alive. Not to mention returning a decomissioned car into the public realm.
Some of the modifications done were:
- Lowering it 30 mm. to give a more compelling presence - Cleaned and lubricated the front & rear springs and wrapped them in gaiters to remove creaking noise from the suspension - Tuned the rear springs to give a more comfortable ride - Installed aircondition, for those long journeys in hot weather - Fitted electronic ignition - Installed electric cooling fan - Fitted electric fuel pump (to supplement the mechanical pump) - Installed a new alternator with built in voltage regulator - Installed new coil - Installed electronic ignition by replacing the entire distributor with a stronger unit - Modified the insturment binnacle to coupe-style and transerred the signals for the 3 "sectors" to the pod-style instruments of the coupe - Mounted the clock in the centre-facia (as it is on the MK-series except MK III) - All wear-items replaced - Replaced seals etc. in the rear axle, to cure the issues common to the P5 rear axle - AED removed in favour of mechanical choke - Electric Fuel Pump mounted under the car, to prevent vapour lock in the petrol line.
The paint have scuffs and scratches in several places, so a respray will have to be arranged next year for the car to show its best.
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Post by Mike’S-a-loon on Oct 13, 2023 18:49:40 GMT
I was browsing Hemmings for old Rovers today, and found this in the description for a very tidy P6 2000: “Mechanically the car runs and drives, needs shiter bushings” Possibly a typo, possibly the vendor thinks it’s a bit too good… www.hemmings.com/listing/1965-rover-2000-891141
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Post by enigmas on Oct 13, 2023 21:30:33 GMT
I acquired a 1969 P5B Saloon Black exterior /saddle tan interior LHD in the Netherlands last year, and commissioned it to the garage run by Mr.Berry Smink. Has workshop lies in Amersfoort, close to Amsterdam. Instructions was to bring the Rover back to life, and to perform various modifications & improvements that I had envisioned. My car was a little nervous on the road when I set out on my journey to Oslo and would not keep a steady line. However after 30-45 minutes driving the car had bedded itself in, and has steady on its course ever since.
Some of the modifications done were: - Lowering it 30 mm. to give a more compelling presence - Cleaned and lubricated the front & rear springs and wrapped them in gaiters to remove creaking noise from the suspension - Tuned the rear springs to give a more comfortable ride - Installed aircondition, for those long journeys in hot weather - Fitted electronic ignition - Installed electric cooling fan - Fitted electric fuel pump (to supplement the mechanical pump) - Installed a new alternator with built in voltage regulator - Installed new coil - Installed electronic ignition by replacing the entire distributor with a stronger unit - Modified the insturment binnacle to coupe-style and transerred the signals for the 3 "sectors" to the pod-style instruments of the coupe - Mounted the clock in the centre-facia (as it is on the MK-series except MK III) - All wear-items replaced - Replaced seals etc. in the rear axle, to cure the issues common to the P5 rear axle - AED removed in favour of mechanical choke - Electric Fuel Pump mounted under the car, to prevent vapour lock in the petrol line. Congratulations and good luck with your new and quite rare acquisition. I note your comment, re: the car being a little nervous at speed...and that it seemed to improve with the journey to your home. The much lighter alloy V8 in the P5Bs in contrast to the predominently heavy cast iron engine block of the 3 litre cars in concert with negligible to no actual caster designed into both car's steering systems makes the P5B incredibly twitchy and nervous at speed. The 3 litre car's heavy engine over the front end moderates this twichyness at speed quite a lot if you have driven both cars. In my opinion, the improvement in stability when driving the car is purely due to accommodating the twitchiness in directional stability. Adding 3° of caster to the steering makes quite a difference. I'm also interested in your A/C addition to the car and would like to see some pictures of the instalation (both within the engine bay and interior) if you decide to post some images of the car. Good luck and enjoy your new acquisition. 😎 👍
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Oct 16, 2023 19:22:01 GMT
Thank you for your kind message and notes concerning vehicle directional stability at speed. I have had the bushings replaced on the front suspension and given it a thorough overhaul. I have not driven a 3.5 litre before so it is difficult for me to judge how my car behave in comparison to other cars. I found it quite similar to my two MK IA, and behaving civilised, almost like a modern car. The body is very prone to sidewind, given the aerodynamic disadvantage a tall and nearly flat surface will induce - crossing bridges was dangerous at high velocity for it's on the bidege the sidewind is particularly strong. The attached file shows the interior with A/C as well as the clock in the fashion of MK I & II and the modified instrument binnacle.
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Oct 16, 2023 19:36:19 GMT
Attachments:
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Oct 16, 2023 19:38:30 GMT
You will see that the aircon is protruding quite a bit. The alternative is a different device altogether - which is smaller - or a different location such as UNDER the parcel shelf. The disdvantage wtih that is passengers getting cold air on their legs, which I consider a bigger disadvantage than a bulky cabinet.
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Post by enigmas on Oct 20, 2023 12:14:05 GMT
This is the A/C that I adapted to my modified MK3 Coupe. It's an aftermarket late 1980s Unicla (rotary compressor) underdash unit that I repurposed from my 1981 Ford Econovan prior to selling the van. Fortuitously the interior evaporator unit fitted perfectly into the given space under the front shelf. What type of A/C compressor (piston or rotary) does your P5B run Norway Viking?
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Oct 23, 2023 19:22:21 GMT
I have installed a compressor in the engine bay with the condenser behind the grille and in front of the radiator for engine coolant. The unit in the passenger compartment contains air inlet on the side and blowing cold air from the three vent grilles. I do not know which type of compressor it is, only that it is a totally modern type of current design. It is also brand new . Attachments:
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Post by enigmas on Oct 23, 2023 21:37:44 GMT
The cross flow condensor looks like a good fit. Is it a custom made unit for the car or off the shelf? Be aware that positioned as it is, that it will add radiant heat to the radiator when operated on hot days so it's a good idea to have the electric fan turn on automatically any time the A/C is switched on.
I also note that the hose fittings to the condensor aren't "O" ring type fittings so do use an appropriate sealant on the fittings and couplings. Whatever "refrigerant" you choose to use in the system, be aware that it can reach pressures beyond 300 psi in certain climatic situations. Given this, any fittings that do not seal perfectly (any slight imperfections in the unions and couplings) will bleed refrigerant in the most miniscule amounts that can be very difficult to locate. So it helps to sort these potential issues prior to refitting any panels and covering pieces that may make later access difficult.
Good luck with your project.
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Oct 24, 2023 6:42:34 GMT
Good morning Enigmas - your points well noted and very much appreciated.
This system is an off-the shelf system not made for the P5 as such but found to be suitable - the pressures of 300 PSI are amazingly high so maintenance is required.
Would you recommend operating the system (occasionally, sometimes or often) also in cool conditions, just to keep the refrigerant circulating to avoid drying out of hoses, connections and so on ?
The fan is set to switch on when the temperature of the engine rise above a certain point. Where I am (Norway) it is not so warm, so the system is installed partly for the occasional hot days that we experience and for longer journeys into continental Europe.
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Post by enigmas on Oct 24, 2023 8:42:07 GMT
There are either one or 2 sensors fitted to your A/C depending upon the features of your particular system, whether it runs an accumulator or a receiver dryer. The sensor or sensors are to monitor hi and lo pressure within the system when its running. The sensor(s) will cut power to the A/C magnetic clutch when the system has pressure below approx 25 -30 psi and above 400 psi. (Check the literature for specific details of your model A/C.) Generally the A/C will not run at the extremes unless ambient temperatures are exceedingly high or when the system has a slow leak and is losing refrigerant. Most times and as a basic rule of thumb if the lo side of the system is running at 50 psi the hi side is generally 4 times that or 200 psi. Pressures within your A/C will depend upon the refrigerant that you'll be using in your system. Once again refer to the tech sheets for your particular A/C. It's worthwhile operating the A/C for short periods at least once every week. The A/C's compressor and main seal is kept viable by lubricant in the system that circulates with the refrigerant when the A/C is in operation. A new A/C compressor usually comes with a full charge of lubricant. So don't add any more lubricant to the system before you check the tech specifications. Too much lubricant like too much refrigerant hampers the function of the A/C so diligently check these details before adding anything to the system One last point. Whatever refrigerant you use ensure that it is compatible with the lubricant used for your A/C. There are different types. Enjoy your project.
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Post by enigmas on Oct 24, 2023 9:02:24 GMT
As I need to do some work on my Mk3 Rover P5 coupe's A/C (and yes, I found a tiny leak at a connection to the condensor in an awkwardly inaccessible place) so I decided to move my ZB Magnette coupe out of its hibernation bay to provide a bit more room so that I can attend to the Rover. PS. The Zenith Stromberg CD automatic waterchoke carburettors work perfectly without issue.
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Post by lagain on Oct 24, 2023 15:26:04 GMT
Impressive engine bay
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Post by MK IA Norway Viking on Oct 25, 2023 13:14:04 GMT
Can you show us photo of the A/C solution you have in your MK III Coupe ?
I am curious to see if it is an installation much different from the one I have.
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Post by enigmas on Nov 8, 2023 13:35:06 GMT
Sure. There is a picture of the unit posted above in this thread but here it is again. The A/C underdash unit is an aftermarket 1980s rotary compressor UNICLA system. As can be seen below the evaporator and 3 speed fan assembly fits nicely under the parcel shelf with the air outlets positioned in the centre of the car's interia. This AC system originally used a combination rotary switch with 2 functions on a common stem. If interested, here's the link to recommissioning my P5 coupe's car's A/C. roverp5.proboards.com/thread/12422/recommissioning-r12-aircon-system
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Post by lagain on Jan 2, 2024 17:03:55 GMT
Just calculated the miles driven last year in my coupe, just under 4000, hope that I don't wear her out !
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Post by hurlsprockets on Jan 29, 2024 13:44:46 GMT
Had an oil leak from the diff so decided to investigate. Sought advice and got some good tips but typically it was the most fiddly fix. The gasket was defective so I had to take off the diff and rectify. As part of the process I had to disassemble the braking system and remove half shafts. All good fun (no really). During the removal of the brake hubs I discovered why my brake fluid had dropped somewhat. Both cylinders were oozing fluid and so the brake shoes were contaminated. Took the cylinders apart and saw that the innards were not as smooth as they should be. Decided to get new cylinders and fit. Thankfully saw the bit about allowing them to slide in-situ before tightening the mounts! Managed to remove diff and put new gasket in place. Replacing diff was a bit more awkward but some careful manoeuvring, got it in place nicely. Tightened bolts, After replacing half-shafts I then filled with correct gear oil. No leak! :-) . Now to get new brake shoes and refit. Stupidly I had not noted the position of the shoes when I removed them, but thanks to this excellent club I got the information I needed. One brake drum sorted. I now need to finish the other one. Will advise on completion.
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break23m
Rover Rookie
Getting a 3 Litre Mk II automatic back on the road
Posts: 49
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Post by break23m on Feb 22, 2024 9:24:42 GMT
I found myself a Lucas window heater. Nice solution for a fogging rear window, I think.
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Post by lagain on Mar 26, 2024 17:06:46 GMT
Took my coupe off her axle stands today and started her for the first time since October. Lovely to hear that V8 burble that means that spring is here. Could not take her for a run as it started to rain.
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