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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 24, 2019 10:58:31 GMT
The Workshop manual is rather inadequate, some detail about the procedure with the sub-frame out of the car but that is confused with it remaining installed. There are items on the site about peoples struggles but no blow by blow detail. Is there anyone willing to write up an idiots guide, step by step. Photos would be a bonus. Plenty of mechanical advice like that in this section but nothing I can find on this procedure.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 24, 2019 15:01:00 GMT
The Workshop manual is rather inadequate, some detail about the procedure with the sub-frame out of the car but that is confused with it remaining installed. There are items on the site about peoples struggles but no blow by blow detail. Is there anyone willing to write up an idiots guide, step by step. Photos would be a bonus. Plenty of mechanical advice like that in this section but nothing I can find on this procedure. Jack the side you want to work on of better still both sides together, there is a Trunnion Bolt visible through a hole in the rear subframe facing to the rear, undo and remove this also the bolt on the front side, then unscrew the Adjuster and remove the Torsion bar Adjuster it will have a bit of a spring to it. At this point the Adjuster "should" knock off the Torsion Bar but may be rusted in? it may come out the front Bottom link? or they may be rusted in both ends? If you are going to refurb the Torsion Bars clearly mark, the ends front and back also the way the leaves are orientated, if you split the Torsion bar for Cleaning and Greasing! you "Must" mark them so you know where they are in the stack order and "Must" go back in the correct order. Assembly is obviously a reversal but you will have to jack up the suspension with another jack and it may be a pain in the ***** to get the Adjuster started? then adjust as per WS manual! I would leave the final settings for a few days for the front to settle down it will look like it's about to take off until then  Good Luck  |
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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 24, 2019 19:17:38 GMT
Thanks John. You say first to remove the Trunnion Bolt, but doesn't that have the adjuster bolt through it and thus holding the torsion bar tension at this stage? The other bolt you refer to must be the adjuster clamping. So letting all the adjustment down is sufficient to take all the tension off - is that correct, and therefore safe to remove that bolt from the trunnion without things going 'twang'?
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Post by enigmas on Mar 24, 2019 22:34:50 GMT
Just adding to John's advice...ensure you unload any tension on the torsion bar laminates by jacking up the front of the car, removing the shock absorber lower fixing bolt and dropping the front suspension arms to unload any remaining tension in the bars.
NB. Personally I wouldn't try and remove the rear adjuster until this was done...there's a lot of potential energy in the spring pack if it's not relaxed first!
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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 24, 2019 22:51:18 GMT
Hi Enigmas. Thanks for the warning and further advice. You have answered my concerns.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 25, 2019 8:44:52 GMT
There is some energy left Sam as Vince points out, you will be surprised as to how little just be aware! you will have more grief putting them back!
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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 25, 2019 21:14:44 GMT
I rather gathered that from previous posts!
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Post by enigmas on Mar 26, 2019 0:41:22 GMT
Sam...most of this work (from my experience...4 - 5 times) is easiest done if you also dismantle the lower suspension arm from its connecting links. In this manner it can be lowered fully down when also reinstalling the leaf spring pack. I've found it's easier to fit the spring pack to the rear adjuster first (after backing off all the adjustment) then fit the lower front suspension arm and jack it up. Ensure the front of the car has plenty of clearance to enable a screw jack or similar to be positioned under the end of the suspension arm.
PS. Don't remove the engine trans lump before you do this otherwise you won't be able 'compress' the suspension arm back into place. You need the additional weight otherwise you'll be jacking the car through the garage roof in the attempt!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Mar 26, 2019 8:51:45 GMT
Sam...most of this work (from my experience...4 - 5 times) is easiest done if you also dismantle the lower suspension arm from its connecting links. In this manner it can be lowered fully down when also reinstalling the leaf spring pack. I've found it's easier to fit the spring pack to the rear adjuster first (after backing off all the adjustment) then fit the lower front suspension arm and jack it up. Ensure the front of the car has plenty of clearance to enable a screw jack or similar to be positioned under the end of the suspension arm. PS. Don't remove the engine trans lump before you do this otherwise you won't be able 'compress' the suspension arm back into place. You need the additional weight otherwise you'll be jacking the car through the garage roof in the attempt! When I rebuilt my suspension last time Vince it was easier to do the way you describe if you don't want to dismantle the corners you can do it but it is a pain to put back! |
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Post by Sam Bee on Mar 27, 2019 18:42:57 GMT
Many thanks chaps. All noted with appreciation.
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Post by Sam Bee on Apr 6, 2019 21:38:59 GMT
I decided to remove the sub-frame with the torsion bars in place. We attempted to take some of the tension off by first slacking off the height adjusting bolts before carrying out the lowering of suspension procedure. With adjuster clamping bolts removed the adjusters would not move, this despite much soaking with 'Plus Gas' and persuasion with a 4lb hammer and gentle easing with a crowbar. This with the adjusting screws being slacked off well clear of the adjusters. Is this normal or are they jammed. If the latter can I safely carrying out the lowering of suspension to entirely remove all tension?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 7, 2019 9:45:30 GMT
I decided to remove the sub-frame with the torsion bars in place. We attempted to take some of the tension off by first slacking off the height adjusting bolts before carrying out the lowering of suspension procedure. With adjuster clamping bolts removed the adjusters would not move, this despite much soaking with 'Plus Gas' and persuasion with a 4lb hammer and gentle easing with a crowbar. This with the adjusting screws being slacked off well clear of the adjusters. Is this normal or are they jammed. If the latter can I safely carrying out the lowering of suspension to entirely remove all tension? Years of neglect Sam they are just rusted in place, with the rear adjusters free no need to worry you may need a lot of heat to help with both ends? as I said don't get the ends/sides/leaf position/orientation muddled up. Good Luck |
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