|
Post by Colin McA on Sept 21, 2007 19:57:12 GMT
Hi Guys,
I will at some point need to change my sub-frame although I will be able to keep it patched up for a few more MOT's.
Has anyone managed to drop the sub frame out complete with the engine and gear box fitted and do you have any photos of the process.
The couple of ways I was thinking was to remove the sub frame complete with the engine drag it out then swap the bits over. The other would be to remove the engine and box first then build up the replacement sub frame.
All views welcomed.
Colin
|
|
|
Post by harvey on Sept 21, 2007 20:02:57 GMT
I've changed the subframes by raising the car and supporting on stands, then leaving the eng/box suspended from above, and dropping the subframe out from underneath, there's no point in all the extra work involved in taking the eng/box out with it.
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 21, 2007 20:19:57 GMT
Hi Colin when I took mine to pieces I took the subframe complete with engine and gearbox it's very simple you have the 4 bolts in the engine bay and the two underneath at the rear of the subframe, just disconnect all the cables,pipes,prop,rad.steering etc etc I took the wheels off and sat her on the disks as it was all going to be done anyway also not as high to lift the body then the best way you can lift the body and drag the complete subframe forward I used a mates rather large engine hoist to do mine I put it back the same way I took it out on my own but a friend gave me a hand to refit as it was all painted and more care was needed or as Harvey says there are other ways
|
|
theroveringmember
Rover Fanatic
P5B Saloon - P4 110 - P6B x2 - 2200TC - 2000TC (S1) 2000SC........How Many Is Too Many?
Posts: 446
|
Post by theroveringmember on Sept 22, 2007 5:20:34 GMT
From a previous post of mine............................ Yes it was pretty straight-forward, not least as we're renting a nice workshop (well, nice to me. at the moment. Took the interior out to reduce weight (the front seats weigh a ton), disconnected gearbox rods, fuel & reserve, propshaft from inside the car. Once all connections under the bonnet disconnected (you have the pull the steering column into car too, not hard), I slung a rope around the front valance (through the holes & over the top) & lifted the car away from the subframe assembly with my engine hoist then supported the body on a plank resting on ramps, under the jacking points. As the hoist was in front of the car it was hard work dragging it out the side but when I put it back I lifted the car & supported it on the sills (a really big pair of axle stands under the jack points would have made this easier), then lined the assembly up in front & put the hoist back in place under the subframe. Much easier though of course, you must be confident in the strength of your sills. It's a bit nerve-racking but we replaced mine when the car was restored. Lowering the car onto the frame was surprisingly easy & the bolt-holes lined up nicely. Don't tighten any bolts until they're all started, leave it loose so you can still raise/lower the body which I had to do to get the last bolt started. When you raise/lower, don't put the rope under the bottom of the front valance as it will bend under the weight.....as mine did when I replaced the frame. Don't know why I did it wrong the second time. I think the expression is....Doh! ;D The benefits of access with the frame out are obvious even if you don't need to change it. Space & shelter is the name of the game I think, unless you've got nice weather & I did the whole job myself so it's perfectly possible.
|
|
|
Post by Colin McA on Sept 22, 2007 10:32:17 GMT
Cheers Guys
At the present my car has been sent away for some serious rust removal. The lower half was pretty shot when I got her and patched her up to get through an MOT.
The guy who is doing the work will do everything but the sub-frame. when he phoned me up to say how bad it was and how much it will cost etc he wasn't very complimentary about the sub-frame but did say it could be repaired if removed.
I have been all over the car so I know that it is just the typical p5 rot and once it is sorted will be good as new, I did see plenty of patches on the sub-frame but it was really only the rear cross-member that is the problem.
I will be able to get a replacement sub-frame no problem so I would have it prep and ready. I will send it to get galvanized, I have done this before with the De Dion elbows on my P6 and was very happy with the process.
Just to clarify, the engine and box can stay in the body without the sub-frame? Thanks for the info guys
|
|
|
Post by Colin McA on Sept 22, 2007 10:56:20 GMT
I am not sure how you all feel about Galv I know some people don't rate it but I think it is great as it gets everywhere. This is a picture of my De-Dion elbows, no worries about what is rusting from the inside out ;D Colin
|
|
|
Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 22, 2007 11:45:48 GMT
You will have to somehow hold the engine and box up while you remove the sub frame Sky Hook personally as I said I would take the whole lot out
|
|