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Post by p5coupepaul on Jan 12, 2020 18:38:20 GMT
on my 1970 p5b coupe my heater doesn't seem to blow much if any heat out. although mainly a good weather car it does get used on the odd sunny wintry days. the pipes on both sides of the heater box in the engine bay are warm but nothing to speak of coming into the car . the fan works ok. any suggestions please. And just so I know im doing it right what is the correct procedure for this to work . The button in the engine bay is free and in the up position at mo cheers paul
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 12, 2020 18:43:07 GMT
Have you flushed the Matrix Paul?
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Post by p5coupepaul on Jan 12, 2020 18:59:47 GMT
hi john no is this an easy job
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 12, 2020 19:21:49 GMT
Just disconnect the pipes and open the the valve and put a hosepipe on one of the pipes and run water through it till runs clear - best to pput a short piece of hose on the the other to avoid a mess! Reverse procedure ie run water through the other connection. Make sure valve is opening fully and is not showing signs of leakage
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Post by p5coupepaul on Jan 12, 2020 19:27:18 GMT
cheers ill sort it out once I get a free weekend thanks
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Post by dhb5610 on Jan 12, 2020 19:32:15 GMT
on my 1970 p5b coupe my heater doesn't seem to blow much if any heat out. although mainly a good weather car it does get used on the odd sunny wintry days. the pipes on both sides of the heater box in the engine bay are warm but nothing to speak of coming into the car . the fan works ok. any suggestions please. And just so I know im doing it right what is the correct procedure for this to work . The button in the engine bay is free and in the up position at mo cheers paul Same problem in my saloon heater matrix completely block so I got an exchange unit from Wadhams and re piped it to the rear now it's all good
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Post by Sam Bee on Jan 12, 2020 22:44:10 GMT
If flushing with water fails then hard limescale may well be the problem. Do not use chemicals. But white vinegar is effective. Block the lower pipe, then fill the core and leave, perhaps overnight. Flush with water again.
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Post by djm16 on Jan 13, 2020 6:55:33 GMT
change the coolant every 6m with either 50% glycol based coolant or fresh corrosion inhibitor. Run with heater valve open for 2y and it may clear. Or you could just replace the heater core.
I suppose it isn't just an air lock?
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Post by Brendan69 on Jan 13, 2020 8:22:59 GMT
I completely overhauled my heater system last year as i had the exact same problem. Firstly i found i had no thermostat fitted so fitted a new one. I also replaced all the rubber coolant hoses including all the alloy pipes for new stainless steel items and also changed all the under car rubber hoses which run to the rear heater of the car. Flushed the main radiator out and also flushed the engine bay heater matrix through too which TBH was not that dirty as my car has had regular coolant changes throughout its life which is a bonus.
My diverter valve was seized solid in the closed position but after a good few days soaking in white vineger she freed up and now works perfectly. The tip is to regularly twist and turn it to keep it free and push it closed and open a few times. I keep mine OPEN as i want the fresh coolant to flow the entire system in order it does not lie stagnant in the rear heater pipes. I also invested in the new outer hose protection sleeve too which runs under the car so at least you can see its all new instead of an old crusty covered in underseal pipe. Mine all actually fell apart as i removed them all and the factory alloy pipes crumbled in my hands so deffo well worth replacing with the newer SS type solid pipes.
If you are planning on long term ownership i highly recommend you replace the lot as i have done for peace of mind.
It cost me about £400 in total to do the entire job but i now have lovely toastie heaters front and rear now with no leaks.
Regards,
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Post by p5coupepaul on Jan 13, 2020 10:42:59 GMT
Thanks for your reply and in depth story. ill start my investigations once ive got a free weekend Thanksagain Paul
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Post by Brendan69 on Jan 13, 2020 13:55:14 GMT
Give yourself plenty of time Paul to do the job if you decide to renew the whole lot. I took my time and did it all over the space of 1 week in slow time. Its deffo not a job to be rushed that's for certain. The hardest part was feeding the 2 x long SS pipes down the bulkhead into position.
Another top tip i forgot to mention is to tag your 2 x rear heater pipes so you know which goes on which inlet/outlet and the same up front too. I took plenty of close up photo's too for reference. Better safe than sorry i say.
Regards, Brendan
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Post by ray on Jan 14, 2020 16:49:27 GMT
If your doing the job and all the coolant is out, it's worth checking the inner hose to the rear heater. I hadn't and lost all my coolant when one of them "ballooned" and burst at speed. If I hadn't slowed for a roundabout and seen the steam, I hate to think what would have happened. I neglected it as it was out of sight. I suspect the hose was 40 years old. Remarkably the outer came clean and was easily removed after soaking in washing powder mix for a full 24hrs. Hose was easily obtained from a commercial vehicle parts supplier... Sold by the meter and the old outer went back easily .. Good luck! Ray
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