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Post by muchhelpneeded on Jun 13, 2020 19:59:35 GMT
Right, so i bought a p4 100 3 years ago as a project for later on and now is that time, when i bought it all the electrics worked. Lights, wipers indicators etc. but now none of them work. the power seems to stop at the current voltage regulator? does anyone have any ideas on this! thanks.
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Post by Brendan69 on Jun 13, 2020 20:33:51 GMT
Your probebly better off asking on the P4 owners club or online forum my friend about this issue as they will i think be best placed to assist you.
Try the Rover Sports Register ( RSR ) they have loads of members with P4's and or the facebook pages too which i dont frequent albeit im sure " Our Phil " on here may chip in as he is a Rover owner expert.
Good luck
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jun 13, 2020 21:24:19 GMT
Right, so i bought a p4 100 3 years ago as a project for later on and now is that time, when i bought it all the electrics worked. Lights, wipers indicators etc. but now none of them work. the power seems to stop at the current voltage regulator? does anyone have any ideas on this! thanks. This is basic knowledge for any car new or old but anything specific to P4s I would advise you to initially join the P4 Drivers Guild FB group and then the actual Forum. Joining the P4 Drivers Guild is strongly advised. PM me for more details. The Rover Sports Register Forum and FB group may also give guidance |
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Post by djm16 on Jun 14, 2020 23:03:21 GMT
Welcome to the P5 Forum!
I have both a P5 and a P4 (as do many of us). Much of the same problems occur on both..
The temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge in the P5 and I suspect the 100 need an average 10V rather than the full 13V. "Voltage regulator" is something of a misnomer. It is a bi-metallic switch that causes the output to jump between 0 and 13V slow enough to be visible on a DVM.
But if you have no lights or wipers either, you should start at the fusebox checking each side of each fuse for continuity. Fuses do go open circuit without being overloaded, and the contacts where they sit oxidise.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jun 15, 2020 8:44:37 GMT
Welcome to the P5 Forum! I have both a P5 and a P4 (as do many of us). Much of the same problems occur on both.. The temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge in the P5 and I suspect the 100 need an average 10V rather than the full 13V. "Voltage regulator" is something of a misnomer. It is a bi-metallic switch that causes the output to jump between 0 and 13V slow enough to be visible on a DVM. But if you have no lights or wipers either, you should start at the fusebox checking each side of each fuse for continuity. Fuses do go open circuit without being overloaded, and the contacts where they sit oxidise. The P4 100 does not have a stabilised fuel gauge so runs at 12v and the temp gauge is capillary |
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Post by djm16 on Jun 15, 2020 13:08:50 GMT
Oh boy do I feel stupid now!
THAT voltage regulator!
So that nobody else gets confused reading this, all P4 models have a voltage regulator to control the output from the dynamo.
The 95 and 110 models and P5 models also have a "voltage stabiliser" (a sub-matchbox sized capsule with a bimetallic strip) that supplies only the petrol and temperature gauges.
Goes off to find a worm to eat ...
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