My 3-litre AC details

[djm16]

Starting with the LucasAir headunit. It hangs from straps under the glove box rail.
(ignore the CD/radio and DC-DC converter hanging off the bottom).



The parcel shelf I imagine was modified by the dealer installation 60 years ago.

[djm16]

Lines from the headunit pass under the tool tray through the bulkhead.



Thence via the filter, and under the cabin fan motor.

[djm16]

A close up of the custom filter bracket, designed to utilise pre-existing holes in the inner wing.



I tried to keep the AC tubing as far away as possible from the exhaust manifold for obvious reasons. It is a tight squeeze past the top of the radiator.

[djm16]

The Sanden universal AC pump has more locating ears on it than are needed, so I removed the one nearest the rocker cover to give enough clearance so the rocker cover can be removed. In practice, I have to take off the AC pump belt and lever the pump as far away as possible to get the rocker cover off. Its a PITA.



The L piece has been filed away nearest the rocker cover for the same reason. The is a piece of PVC tape still attached from when I last took the rocker cover off: it protects the paint on the rocker cover while removing it. This is about as good a view as I could get of the modified engine mount that the pump is attached to. The pump pivots on two bolts underneath that are a challenge to reach. Belt adjustment is via a sliding bracket mounted to the engine timing cover.



Hang on, lets see if I can find an old photo:

[djm16]

Here it is, years ago when I first modified the AC setup.



The pipework around the top of the radiator is very tight.

[djm16]

Lastly, some details of either end of the condenser unit.

[enigmas]

Thanks for posting both the images and text relating to the A/C in your 3 litre P5 David. Very comprehensive and useful info for those wanting to instal an A/C in their P5.

It definitely is a tight installation.

Great care has to be taken with the A/C hoses on the tight turns where they enter and exit through panels. I had the high pressure liquid line on one side of my installation gouge a deep groove into one of the hoses due to vibration. It was easier to fabricate a copper line of suitable size and orientation in my case than to replace the hose.

These older systems use flare fittings (not O rings like current systems on connections) and it's definitely worthwhile using appropriate sealing solutions on the unions when reattaching them.

Refrigerant will leak through the smallest pinhole in a hose or union. Both the use of green UV detectable dye and an inexpensive gas sniffer (Ebay) are useful tools in tracking miniscule refrigerant leaks.

[djm16]

I don't recall now if any of the fittings were flared, perhaps on the old condensor. I am pretty sure all are now viton O-rings, nevertheless, a non-setting sealant compound was used.

[enigmas]

Both the "receiver/dryer" (black cannister with the attached pressure switch and sight glass) and the underdash "evaporator" are likely to have flare fittings given their vintage.