Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2006 12:04:46 GMT
I have tried many times to adjust the handbrake after disturbing the linkeage. The precise measurement of 1/7/16 is adhered to as per handbook. The off-side rear wheel locks on the 6th click but the near-side doesn't, only slightly touching. If I adjust at the cable end again, surely this will only grip the off side even harder.
I have read the manual which states that you make sure that the shoes are hard against the drum and then to slacken by two clicks. However, I believe Phil mentions slacken one turn!
Any help would be much appreciated.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 15, 2006 13:49:24 GMT
The 1 click is usualy sufficient - 2 can be used if necessary.
Your problem sound like classic non-floating rear wheel cylinders and or siezed wedges in the back of cylinder on which the linkage pulls.
It could also be siezed compensator on the back axle or wrongly assembled brake shoes and/or springs
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2006 18:00:47 GMT
Thanks Phil I will try and float my cylinders.
Tony
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2006 18:16:50 GMT
Sorry to bother you again Phil but could you locate the compensator for me. Does it go under another name?
Tony
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 15, 2006 19:29:12 GMT
Its on the top of the back axle case - the the handbrake rod from the front pulls equally on the the 2 rods to each of the rear brake anchor plates. It equalises the pull to both by shifting side to side
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2006 22:29:57 GMT
Thanks again Phil.
Tony
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Post by mcgill on Aug 20, 2009 8:35:44 GMT
my dust rubbers turned up today,.got the spring washers etc,follow the workshop manual etc,but should i phisically be able to move the cylinders up nand down,(without the shoes and springs).or do they with the pressure of everything.,also should there be any kinda lube between the cylinder and baseplate?
also i packed the handbrake mech in cylinder with copper grease,all moves nicely but is there a better option???
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doojab
Rover Rookie
Classic cars are there to be driven!
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Post by doojab on Aug 20, 2009 17:46:03 GMT
Copper grease is the best. Cylinder should be moveable without shoes in place but not really loose - the manual recommends leaving securing bolt loose by one turn. Copper slip the surfaces where the cylinder slides. Hope it goes well.
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Post by norvin on Aug 21, 2009 11:43:24 GMT
As I have posted before do make sure the steady post for all brake shoes are adjusted, if they are not then the brake shoe will not be in full contact with the brake drum and this can have quite a dramatic effect on the hand brake and ofcourse the foot brake aswell.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 21, 2009 16:31:34 GMT
A giveaway apart from poor handbrake is onesided wear of the linings
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 21, 2009 17:40:20 GMT
It should show up on the MOT brake test  the rears last week on mine were as good as the front the examiner thought it was strange for a dual braking system  well he hadn't done a Rover of that vintage before  |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 21, 2009 18:25:06 GMT
I agree but the MOt minimum for handbrake is only 25% which as you say a good P5 set up will triple
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the rears last week on mine were as good as the front the examiner thought it was strange for a dual braking system 
well he hadn't done a Rover of that vintage before 