auto box stall test

[mark21]

hi there i am having a few problems with my auto box(DG TYPE FITTED TO 3LTR MODEL) i have a mk2 engine in good condition with a borg &warner dg auto box fitted in a mk1 model with all the mk2 running gear(carb,distb ,etc) it has slight leak but front oil seal is begining to seal it self(i hope) the problem a got now is the engine is a bit sluggish in forward and backward so i done a stall test as desrcibed in workshop manual and the reading was 1500RPM WAS THE MAXIUM ENGINE SPEED ON THE REV COUNTER WIRED UP TO ENGINE TESTED IN L (LOW) GEAR ON THE AUTO BOX THE WORKSHOP TELLS YOU FOR A MR2 SHOULD BE BETWEEN 2000-2300RPM AND IF THE READING IS BELOW THE 900RPM THE TORQUE CONVERTOR IS FAULTLY BUT MY IS OVER THAT FIGURE BUT BELOW THE 2000RPM can any one give me any advice on the subject before i have to take the engine and gearbox out big job on a mk1 3ltr model thanks mark21 P.S THERE IS PLENTY OF ATF IN THE BOX AND IS AT THE CORRECT LEVEL

[mark21]

just one other question will a one ton engine crane be ok to take engine and gearbox out thanks mark21

[Phil Nottingham]

It is on the low side but then the rev counter is unlikely to be accuarte - try another one first.

The crane will easily lift the combined unit out if it will lift high enough.

Try search for more tips

[jlalexander]

A friendly advice from an old automatic gearbox engineer: the trouble shooting chart in the WS manual was intended for quite new cars; the stall speed test must be done only for a few seconds(i.e. engine warm, full throttle for 3 seconds,then foot off) The rev counter must be an accurate external one(a strob lamp will do the job).This test is pretty lethal for the box & TC.It creates a lot of heat. We used to be very careful in doing it with recent cars, so with a 40 years old one......! Anyway, to be more precise a stall speed test must be carried out only with an engine in tip-top adjustment (carb., ignition). The front & rear brake bands must have been adjusted properly as well the kick down linkage.The proper & best oil for a DG gearbox is TEXTRANS AS from Texaco (AS stands for anti squawk) After rebuilding DGs, we always use that oil.

[Phil Nottingham]

Very interesting about the Anti-squawk ATF as there was a hot debate on here last yea (October) about the various merits of Dexron/Non Dexron ATF for the BW 35 box. The older DG box was not raised but again Dexron oil would not have this stuff in it?

The conclusion reached then was that newly rebuilt boxes with modern linings SHOULD use Dexron oil but older ones should stick (and it would cause damage if it was used) to Non DexronFord spec fluid.

Type in Dexron in Search and also roverp5.proboards31.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=1123194496&page=2

What's your views?

It does say in the manual that the engine should be in good condition and as I have said many times the car rev counter is only decorative and the accuracy of its readings at any point is noteven linear

[Deleted]

Mark,

Is the engine sugglish starting in all forward settings, e.g., low, drive, and drive with intermediate hold? Can you describe more about how it feels as you drive through the gears and why you suspect the transmission? Does it smooth out with the car gets into final gear? Is it sluggest in intermediate?

My car has also has a DG transmission and I have several other workshop manuals. If you can provide more details about the symptoms then I might be able to find something in one of the other manuals. I find the troubleshooting section of the Rover manual wanting.