Front suspension installation tips anyone?

[taz]

Hoping someone can help..

I've replaced the suspension bushes and are attempting to re-install the lower arm and radius rod. The radius rod is already attached to the lower arm. After some adjusting, I've successfully repositioned the lower arm back onto the torsion bar and poked the free end of the radius rod thru the hole in the subframe bracket. However I'm finding it very difficult to fit the new rubber and cup washer to the end of the radius rod as there is next to no room between the subframe and the torsion bar.

Am I going about it the right way? Any tips? It's been a bit frustrating since I was unable to crack the lower swivel, so I cracked the upper swivel instead and I now have the lower arm, radius rod, hub & calipers all connected in what looks a bit like a set of Scottish bag pipes (a very heavy set!).

Cheers,
Taz

[jlalexander]

Hi Taz,
the WS manual is not very helpful about that. The proper way to do the job is:
put the radius rod free with washer/front rubber/cup washer into the sub frame bracket,put the cup washer, back rubber after the bracket, washer, nut, finger tight(or a bit more)
then poke the radius rod through the bush in the bottom link
then & only then, put the bottom link onto the torsion bar with a cranking movement(a lot of strength is needed for that job)
your problem is to have failed disconnecting the bottom swivel. Even if it's not going to be straight forward, I would recommend to try to undo it, because I can't see any successful issue with that heavy Scottish bag pipes set.

[Phil Nottingham]

I agree the workshop manual oversimplifies the process and I too deal with this as per John.

Its sometimes awkward geeting the torsion bar leaves into the radius arm if they have spread - clamping them together makes this easier

[taz]

Thanks guys,

I can see how that will work. I will try to release the lower swivel again. After trying a hammer, heat and inserting an expanding bolt between the upper and lower swivels, all of which failed, I think I will put some effort into fabricating myself a special tool. I looked around the shops for a ball-joint breaker however nothing was big enough.

Cheers,
Taz.

[jlalexander]

I think that the best way to release the bottom swivel it to put roughly everything back in place, so that the torsion bar strength release the swivel. The heath Robinson setting in the WS manual is only valid when the sub frame is off the car;when the WS manual mention to tap gently the swivel housing, it's a bit of understatement; you must use a very big hammer and a big bronze billet ( 1" diam); the weight of somebody sitting on the wing increases the reaction of the torsion bar, when it's under tension hit very strongly the swivel housing via the bronze billet, no faint-hearted !!! You won't brake/damage it, just mind your fingers. Good luck

[taz]

Thanks guys
I ended up leaving the lower swivel attached and removed the hub, , calipers, backing plate and the steering arm, leaving only the stub axle and then just unbolted the top swivel. It was pretty easy after that. With the radius rod already attached to the subframe the lower arm went back onto the torsion bar and the other end of the radius rod without too much trouble at all.

Cheers,
Taz.

[Phil Nottingham]

Well thats one way round it till the bottom ball joint needs servicing

[gregwebb]

Balljoints or steering tierod ends are fitted with a tapered section which pulls in tighter when the nut is done up.
The following procedure has worked well for me over many years on a range of vehicles.
Jack the vehicle up and place jack stands under subframe assembly and allow the lower control arm to hang fully.
Loosen the lower balljoint nut so as a the nut retains a full thread.
Use the bronze billet as suggested and hit the side of the stub axle at 90 degrees where the balljoint passes through the stub axle.
Hitting on the side will distort the shape of the stub axle for a split second and combined with the tension of the torsion bar pushing down should release the balljoint taper.
I hope this may be of some help.

[Phil Nottingham]

Thsis always worked with me too - its the sharp tap that necessary slow battering is no good

[taz]

I tried that too, using a nice 6" x 1.5" bronze drift after chocking the top arm stops and lowering the suspension thus loading up the joint in tension - just as the manual describes. I started with a small ball hammer using sharp hits, then a largish general hammer and then I suddenly found myself taking swings with a sledge hammer and I knew it was time to stop I did the same after heating the rear of the stub axle around the tapered housing as much as I dared without melting the ball joint rubber joint - however it still wouldn't budge.

Cheers,
Taz.

[Phil Nottingham]

Its all in the wrist action - a taper joint has never beat me yet though of course there is always a first time!

Yours seems particularly tight though