Engine & gearbox separation

[Welsh Warlock]

After a blown head gasket I decide to remove the engine for an overhaul/poss exchange.

After removing all of the ancilliaries, today a friend & I removed the front slam panel, the 8 bolts holding the bell housing and we tried to lift the engine out. However, no matter how much we pulled, pushed, twisted, lifted, swore, levered and prayed the d**n engine will not separate from the 'box by more than about an inch all around .

Never had an engine this reluctant to leave its gearbox.

Any ideas?

All of the bolts are undone.

[Phil Nottingham]

;)Its not supposed to be possible to remove engine with box in a P5B!

No doubt it could be forced! Getting it back would be very difficult though as TC damage is very likely if not already occured as the tongues can get bent/broken or the splines burred. Have you unbolted the flex plate from the converter -this is the safer option although I still think the spigot on the converter will not clear the flywheel? Have you unclpped the oil cooler and petrol pipes from the sump flange

The box is only held by the rear mounting, prop shaft UJ bolts, speedo cable and change linkage

It really is easier to remove the lot and its not too heavy (compared to a 3 litre DG auto anyway). I would try to bolt the lot together again.

PS

It is a bind removing the grill frame but I also remove the front valence panel, centre bumper/whole lot and heater box too in case of damage

[Welsh Warlock]

Phil, do you mean that its not supposed to be possble to remove the engine & box seprately?

[harvey]

Have you removed the halfmoon plate that bolts to the lower part of the bellhousing? If the 2 bolts holding this that go upwards into the block are missing, and the ones into the bellhousing are still fitted it will allow the engine to move forward by about an inch but no further.

[Phil Nottingham]

Its not impossible but far less practicable to just remove the engine on its - its getting it back together thats probably even more difficult. I think you have already proved the first point?

[harvey]

I've removed engines on their own, and boxes on their own, and both together, and would just remove what I wanted to work on. But you're right Phil, putting an engine back in onto a box that is already there is not something to be done if you don't know what you're doing.

[Phil Nottingham]

The problem with me is that apart from my good lady to watch-out and give the occassional prod with broom stick to avoid collisions with expensive bits on the car (or me) I have to do work on my cars on my own - so I always take the easy ways out ;D

[Phil Nottingham]

;)There you are then - Wadhams sill ie outer,middle and inner less than £100 incl VAT excl postage ;D

Glad I do not have to bother with modern cars

[Richard '69 Saloon]

Phil, do you run your P5 every day? Do any other owners use theirs as everyday vehicles? Any problems wth this? How do you keep the rust at bay driving in all weathers?
Cheers,
Richard

[Allan NZ P5b]

Yes use every day no problems to keep rust at bay live in New Zealand

Regards

[Phil Nottingham]

Yes I do run one or other of my P5's every day and have done for many years.

There are a number of others that do but we are in the minority although some do use them regularly in fine weather
It depends what you mean by keeping rust at bay.

If you mean some magic potion or product then one does not exist - its like painting the Forth Bridge. RusT reappears even on new panels or in places its never been so its always some patch here and there so I just keep them presentable by constant attention as & when required.

I enjoy my cars by using them as designed for so I expect them to require continual attention - its still makes sound commercial sense to me but only cause I do all work by myself

[Welsh Warlock]

They are now separated.

After taking some advice I found I needed to remove the half moon plate and unbolt the torque converter!

Whoops!

[harvey]

I'm not one to say I told you so, but.......... ;D

[Phil Nottingham]

You should have tried this forum first?

[Welsh Warlock]

Thanks guys.

It certainly wasn't obvious that the half moon plate needed to be removed. As I didn't understand how the torque converter links into the drive train. I naively assumed that the output shaft from the engine would withdraw. Now I understand the set up with the torque converter and the flex plate it's all so obvious.

I have learned a lot about the set up and will know for next time (if there is one).

The engine will be cleaned up inspected but there is some evidensce that the block may be porous so a replacement me be the way to go.

In the meantime I have sourced a suitable replacement (upgrade) alternator, had the starter motor overhauled and taken the opportunity to have the inlet manifiold, elbows and rocker covers powder coated. Also ordered overhaul kits from burlen for the carbs and will probably put the Mallory dual point distributor on.

I'll spend some time clening the 37 years of accumulated grease and cack from the engine compartment too.

As per the PRI web site, I will probably change the flex plate too. Any words of wisdom on the flex plate will be appreciated.

[harvey]

I've never had a V8 flexplate fail, and have only changed them when the converter bolts have been left loose or the engine has been dropped on the plate.

[Phil Nottingham]

I have never had one fail - although I have heard them go usally when engine is highly tuned or thrashed. Just inspect it for cracks.