Heater unit

[roedmose]

As I have the engine out, it is a perfect time to tidy up the engine compartment. The heater has never been able to send air up to the screen and could do with some paint besides checking the matrix etc.
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All the rods are working etc, but the upmost shutter is not connected to anything, so I assume that is why the demister is not demisting.
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Should this be connected to the shutter just below as this has a hole at one side or ??

Frank, DK

[theroveringmember]

The top shutter just hangs & does it's own thing in the airflow. If the foam edge is worn off you can hear it knocking sometimes. I re-foamed mine to stop that.

[roedmose]

I taken the unit apart and have removed the old paint and ready to paint the unit again. All the foam had dis-integrated totally. Anyone has an idea where there sould be foam inside the unit ?
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The matrix seems ok, but where the valve is attached there is a small connecting piece bolted onto the unit with the remains of a rubber gasket that should seal for water. This has also dis-integrated. Anyone know ehere to find a substitute for that ?

Frank

[theroveringmember]

While it's out I'd have the Matrix tested & cleaned out as a matter of course. Not expensive. I paid £40 for a re-core on my Oxford (which is the same heater & was blocked solid) & £30 for a clean out on the P5B. You should be able to see where the foam was glued. It's just around the edge on the top shutter & the one on the base of the unit is covered all over with foam on the inner side. You can buy a kit for the valve which includes the O-ring. It only comes as part of the kit as far as I know. Read my post in the" Heater Matrix" thread for more info.

[Phil Nottingham]

The O ring is a standard thick type of suitable diameter - these could also at one time be made either from suitable rubber rod glued ends together or punched from a sheet.

The foam is standarf open cell stuff used for cheap household draft excluders - its not very effective. Closed cell stuff can be had from Vehicle Wiring Products and the like either self adhesive or plain. This is far superior

[roedmose]

I did test the matrix by blocking one tube and putting a valve from a tubeless tire in the other and set 2 bars pressure on it. Then down in a bucket of water. And it was not ok !!
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Spend a few hours today soldering it up and now it takes 3 bars pressure with no visible bubbles.
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I will try to find suitable foam and a sort of sealing ring locally. It did look as a special rubbermoulding, but it is pretty deterogated !

Thanks
Frank

[theroveringmember]

Are you sure there are no solid blockages which will impair the performance though. If you were getting loads of heat from it then it's probably o.k but if the flow of air is just luke warm, suspect solid matter.

[Deleted]

With the unit already stripped, it makes good sense to have the matrix properly tested and checked for full flow.
You will kick yourself if you rebuild the whole unit and then find the heater is not working well due to poor water flow.

Freddy

[roedmose]

Okay, message understood ! I will see if I can track down someone here that can do the job.

Thanks
Frank

[Deleted]

Hi, have just picked up on this, mainly because I shall be dealing with my heater in the not too distant future, for the same reasons.
As it happens, I know 'a man that does' but he is in Staplehurst, Kent. Where are you ?
He upgraded my rad before our trip to Italy and, apart from boiling (as did others) at the top of Vesuvius, everything went OK
Kind Regards, John A.

[theroveringmember]

pjohnandrew said:

He upgraded my rad before our trip to Italy and, apart from boiling (as did others) at the top of Vesuvius, everything went OK
Kind Regards, John A.

Is it hot up there then??

[roedmose]

Hi John !

I am in Denmark, where it can be difficult to get smaller jobs done. And if one find anyone, it is expensive and I have experienced even bad quality at the same time !

Frank