BW35 seal or Recon?

[Welsh Warlock]

After replacing the engine in my car, the gearbox is leaking badly. The oil is dripping out of the joint between the bellhousing and engine.

I'm pretty sure that the torque converter was not seated properly on the first attempt to bolt the two together and so I feel confident it is the seal behind the torque converter that's damaged.

I now need to decide on which way to jump and that will depend on several factors.

Obviously the gearbox will need to come out and then the options are:

1. Replace the seal and put it back in
2. Have the box overhauled
3. Replace the box with another BW35 that's been overhauled
4. replace the box with a GM180

The original gearbox was working well prior to the engine change.

the things I need to know and would appreciate some feedback on are:

How difficult is it to change the shaft seal one the box is out?

Is there anything else that is easy to change and should be changed as a matter of course while the box is out?

Does anyone know somewhere that knows what they are doing with a BW35 and can recon the original box for a reasonable price, preferably in the Midlands but can travel if necessary & worthwhile. (I was quoted £1300.00 + Vat by a local auto gearbox specialist!!!!)

Anyone has experience of the GM180 conversion & how worthwhile it is? I know Graham Rigby has done these conversions but would like some feedback from someone who has driven one over some distance.

All info gratefully received.

[harvey]

Chances are you're right and you've damaged the front pump seal. The seal is easy to change once the box is out and costs about a fiver.
I can't really see much point in doing any thing other than leaving it alone or doing an overhaul, if you had faults beforehand it might be worth looking into them but a full rebuild is best really.
Overhauling another box and swapping them over cuts down on the time the car is off the road, just make sure they are the same box or you have the different parts to hand for re-fitting.
I can't see the point in converting to a GM180, although it's a smoother box it's still only a 3 speed, and if you're going to the trouble of a conversion you'd be better going for the ZF 4 speed O/D box.

I know someone in Essex who's been doing the BW35 & 65 boxes for years and is more than useful when it comes to doing them, and it won't be anywhere near £1300+VAT.

PM me if you want further details.

[Phil Nottingham]

Wadhams is cheaper

[harvey]

philnottingham said:

Wadhams is cheaper

True, and he's still bl**dy expensive!

[Colin McA]

I got my box overhauled last year.

I was amazed how much nicer the car is to drive now.

I got it done by a local specialist in Glasgow called Gibbon and Wilson (number is in the yellow pages). Jamie served his time in his dads Rover dealership when these cars were new and they used to do the autobox overhauls themselves. I know several people who have had him do there boxes over the past few years and no complaints.

The price I think was £375 plus vat which included a torque converter and new kickdown cable. If the box has to come out it is worth considering.

Colin

[harvey]

The price I think was £375 plus vat which included a torque converter and new kickdown cable.

Colin[/quote]

If that was the price including a converter that's bl**dy cheap!

Note to self: must stop swearing!

[Phil Nottingham]

Yes I agree!

[Colin McA]

I just checked my cheque book stubs.

It was £528.75 so that means it was £450 plus vat. Maybe I told Her in doors it was £375, lol.

Point to bear in mind was that this was just for the overhaul I removed and replaced the box myself. I think that the labour charge for that part of the job would be quite high. I did it myself in a few hours and had it back in even quicker. I did find the little finishing jobs took ages like bolting the dip stick tube back on.

I think that Jamie's price was pretty good and saved me the courier etc. He also said to bring the car down once I refitted the box and he would make sure it was set up properly. not sure if it is included in the price though.

Colin

[harvey]

That's more what I would expect, any less than that either they're working for nothing or they're not fitting all that they should.
I would think that he would make sure it was set up OK without any further charge, even if he has to slightly adjust the cable, it's good for "customer relations"

[theroveringmember]

Seems to me the average price would be around £400-£450 for a rebuild only. £1300 sounds like the price that may be quoted in the year 2025.
My local place want £450 for a total rebuild & inc: new torque converter. They are an old, established & reliable business in Ilford, Essex.

[Colin McA]

I still need to get a new bush for the downshift linkage. and give the carbs a tweek before I go over to see him again.

If anyone needs the bush JRW doesn't do them but Ian Wilson who does the p6 stuff and took over Ray Weekly's buisness has had them made. He is on the web under roverclassics.

Colin

[Phil Nottingham]

Useful tip - which bush is this - the one on the back of the cylinder head?

[harvey]

It's the throttle link bush that goes in the throttle bracket that's used with the short kickdown cable.

[Phil Nottingham]

That's the one I thought

[Welsh Warlock]

An update and some recommendations appreciated.

The route I was going to take with the GM180 box I have now decided against for varuous reasons.

I need to get the car back on the road with the leak cured ASAP with minimal cost.

So, I propose to remove the gearbox, replace the seal that i think is the problem and replace the kickdown cable (frayed) and selector lever seal.

The box is actually working quite well execpt a bit clunky when enaging gear since I installed the new engine but this is reduced when the transmission fluiod is at the correct level i.e. it only seems a problem when the fluid level is low.

A couple of questions:
1. I am told there are 2 types of possible seal (red and blue?), does anyone know which one it is.
2. I think the seal concerned (damaged by torque converter lugs when re-installing the engine) is page 1340 of parts manual part number 601012. Can anyone confirm this for me please?
3. I want to leave the engine in place. The only things I can think of, other than bellhousing bolts, propshaft bolts and mounting bolts, that need disconnecting are the dipstick tube, kickdown cable, selector lever, inhibitor switch connections, peedo drive and hydraulic pipes to the transmission oil cooler. Anything else?

All info & advice really appreciated.

[harvey]

I assume by bellhousing bolts you mean the six that hold the gearbox to the converter housing? Leave the bellhousing and T/C where they are and remove the gearbox from them. Other than that I think you've pretty much got it all covered once you've taken the tunnel out.
Clunky engagement can be caused by the low fluid level, it can also be caused by the frayed kickdown cable sticking.
As for the seal I can't tell you as I haven't got a parts book for the P5B, but that is the number listed for the front pump seal in the P6B parts book, which shares the same gearbox.

[Welsh Warlock]

Well, the 'box is out and it looks like a rebuild is in order!

Harvey, can you PM or e-mail me with your man's details and I'll run the box down there early next week.

Looks like Benson won't make the National :-(

[harvey]

I've sent you a PM.