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Post by Deleted on Jul 30, 2006 19:16:58 GMT
The ammeter flicks when engine running. If lights are on then they flick at the same rate. What needs replacing? battery is fine and keeps its charge.
Martyn
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Post by Deleted on Jul 30, 2006 20:03:25 GMT
Do you mean indicators? Otherwise why are the lights flicking?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 30, 2006 22:28:49 GMT
I have the same problem. I have changed the alternator and voltage regulator and still have the problem. I wonder if others are also experiencing this problem.
The flickering ammeter represents a charge and discharge and you can see it on a scope. As can be expected, the car's lights get brighter with the needle points towards charge and dimmer when the needle points towards discharge.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 31, 2006 5:33:23 GMT
Have you checked the voltage condition before the ammeter as well as after? the ammeter is shunted so it may be the problem "IF" the problem condition is only after the ammeter.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2006 12:11:21 GMT
I have checked and the condition is the same before and after the ammeter. Is this a typical failure mode for the regulator?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 31, 2006 17:26:42 GMT
I Can't say sorry! but if the problem is on the supply line it could be either Altenator or the Control Module check voltage from the Altenator to the Module input and see if it is steady?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2006 18:19:53 GMT
Unsteady readings on the ammeter assuming its not bad connections can be due to worn brushes - these are easily changed and inexpensive. 4TR regulators can be bought new from Wadhams or off Ebay.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 1, 2006 1:32:18 GMT
Martyn,
The cause of my flickering lights was low voltage to the regulator caused by corroded relay contacts. If you have a voltmeter then you can see if your problem is the same as mine.
The procedure is simple. First, you switch the ignition on without starting the car and then use the voltmeter to take one measurement.
The 11AC alternator has three main connections. The largest is connected to the battery throught the ammeter. The other two are connected to the regulator. Schematically, you have (B) Battery, (F-) field negative, (F+) field positive.
You want to measure the voltage difference between (B) and (F+). It should be less than 0.25 volts. Mine was 0.44 volts and that was enough to cause the flickering.
If you find the voltage is too high then you need to work backwards to find the source of the voltage loss. I found that the voltage into the relay was good but was low out of the relay.
Good luck.
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