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Post by fortnum1977 on Mar 20, 2007 9:37:56 GMT
hello,
my heater works but releases no heat at all... anyone had this problem?? or better still, know how to fix it???
thanks,
Chris
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Post by p5tgc on Mar 20, 2007 10:34:28 GMT
Let's start by finding out what IS working, given that there are two basics required. 1) Water flow. Do you have a flow of water going through the matrix? Disconnect the water pipe and check. If there is no flow, or very little, there will be no heat. 2) Air flow. Is the fan working, and are the internal flaps moving when the dash sliders are moved? Does air exit from the windscreen vents and /or the vents under the dash on top of the transmission tunnel? 3) Any heat output from the rear heater?
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Post by fortnum1977 on Mar 20, 2007 10:49:17 GMT
Let's start by finding out what IS working, given that there are two basics required. 1) Water flow. Do you have a flow of water going through the matrix? Disconnect the water pipe and check. If there is no flow, or very little, there will be no heat. 2) Air flow. Is the fan working, and are the internal flaps moving when the dash sliders are moved? Does air exit from the windscreen vents and /or the vents under the dash on top of the transmission tunnel? 3) Any heat output from the rear heater? I'll check those at lunch time and get back to you, thanks
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Post by Deleted on Mar 23, 2007 10:01:43 GMT
we've got the same problem ! Did you find anything out ?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Mar 23, 2007 17:36:23 GMT
Try Search
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2007 10:58:25 GMT
Does the heater need to be bled of air? Driving the car these days is becoming dangerous.
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Post by dorsetflyer on Mar 25, 2007 11:47:26 GMT
Yes you do have to bleed air out of the heater system. Basically air locks stop hot water from circulating through the heater.
However two other items come up, 1) Make sure all the blind grommets and sleeved grommets are in place on the bulkhead, otherwise they will negate any warm air coming from the heater ducts. 2) Is it just because the air has been cold lately that the journeys are not that long, bearing in mind you probably need to exceed 12 miles to get the true working temp up to normal.
I found how cold the interior was the other Sunday even after a run of 140 miles. I discovered the grommet around the steering column was missing and as it's low down it dragged in the cold ground level air. Fitting a new one has cured that nicely. Conversely if you want forced cold air in the summertime then remove the grommet.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 25, 2007 15:53:32 GMT
I just took out the thermostat. It was open.
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Post by dorsetflyer on Mar 27, 2007 19:21:20 GMT
If the thermostat was open and the water was cold, and not at running temperature then you need a new thermostat. It should be shut when cold and open when hot.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 28, 2007 7:55:51 GMT
If the thermostat was open and the water was cold, and not at running temperature then you need a new thermostat. It should be shut when cold and open when hot. Thanks, but i already knew that and ordered a new one last sunday. The trouble is, that at this time of the year with a belt driven fan, the engine will not get to full temperature without a working thermostat. I have a low compression Sherpa engine and it runs on 95 octane. The broken thermostat looks like it is the original. I am hoping to get better mpg now. The owner of the Sherpa changed it to a diesel engine at 65 thousand miles. I dont think that it had had proper oil changes as I had to change the camshaft. (worn on #8 exhaust lobe) Will keep you posted re heater functioning.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2007 17:27:20 GMT
New thermostat fitted. Now the heater is working. Very happy. ;D Hardly need the choke now.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 3, 2007 18:23:36 GMT
Running too rich!!!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2007 11:57:24 GMT
Compared to what it was like before.
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