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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Apr 29, 2007 3:13:13 GMT
Can anyone tell me please, where the tacho wiring pick-up points normally are on a 1970 model? The tacho is reading over double the correct reading.
The car has had Luminition (optical "points") fitted and has a late model Japanese alternator so one of these is probably causing the problem. I'd like to disconnect the tacho until I resolve the problem and would like to do it the easy way for preference; that is, without removing the instrument panel.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 29, 2007 8:11:33 GMT
The tacho picks up via an an ignition fed inductive loop on the back of it, another ignition fed supply is also present.
Use SEARCH se to a long time span for more info and pictures
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Apr 29, 2007 9:20:34 GMT
Thanks Phil, I'll do that.
This is the first day that I've had a chance to have a good look under the dash and under the bonnet, in detail. I found a small unhappy-looking device in a metal case, with some fried wires attached. Disconnecting it stopped the fuel gauge and temp gauges from working.
Testing it with a multimeter showed it was a straight-through connection; doing nothing.
Do these 2 gauges have a voltage-regulated feed? Is this thing a voltage regulator? If it is it would explain the high readings on both gauges.
And, why not the oil pressure gauge too?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 29, 2007 10:14:22 GMT
That was the voltage regultor a standard Lucas device used on many cars of the 50-80's incl Land Rovers/Minis. Stabilised at 10volts I think
Do not use the instruments without it as they will burn out. Ensure there is no short circuit that caused the old unit to burn out before fitting a new one.
Th oil gauge works differently and is not as sensitive to voltage variations usually these under record due to hardening and eventual failure of a rubber diapragm in teh sender
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 29, 2007 10:20:20 GMT
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on Apr 29, 2007 23:58:03 GMT
Thanks Phil and John; very helpful. Hopefully the gauges haven't been damaged yet.
If this is one of those bi-metallic regulators that pulses on and off, would it be okay to replace it with a modern solid-state switch-mode regulator of sufficient output?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 30, 2007 16:31:10 GMT
Yes I think so
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