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Post by Multi-Tech on Apr 27, 2008 11:46:23 GMT
Some of you may have seen some time ago a post i put about the respray I'm doing to my 3.5 coupe? Well it been a long time coming....due to finding more rust and holes which i needed to weld up first, as you always do when you start digging around on these cars, the weather was lovely yesterday so i rolled her out and started to strip her down ready for the prep work to be under taken. I have taken some pictures and will post updates as i take my vary looooooonnnnggg walk down the road of a respray.    |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 27, 2008 13:56:02 GMT
Keep up the good work  |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 27, 2008 14:23:04 GMT
Wisely not going for bare metal!
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Post by Multi-Tech on Apr 27, 2008 14:59:53 GMT
No not going for bare metal, didn't even want to do the respray but i work in a body shop and one of the painters said if i get it ready he will paint it for £100 so couldn't say no to that.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 27, 2008 16:28:28 GMT
Bargain - I wish he was nearer!!!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 27, 2008 18:21:19 GMT
Wisely not going for bare metal! What's wrong with a bare metal respray Phil   |
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Post by glennr on Apr 27, 2008 19:13:10 GMT
Nice one Barry. I hope the sill trims set it off |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 27, 2008 19:43:38 GMT
Nothing in theory but its often unnecessary and if not done properly by cutting corners to save money can cause more problems
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 27, 2008 19:51:42 GMT
Sorry Phil I don't understand your logic  if you take the whole shell to bare metal and etch prime use Reface or standard primer and paint I can't see how you are cutting corners  |
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Post by Smallfry on Apr 27, 2008 21:17:46 GMT
Bare metal is great, and really the only proper way..............
PROVIDED that you can keep the car in a proper damp free environment while you are doing it, or, if not, repaint it within a day or two.
Not like in a lock up doing it a bit at a time.
I must say how good it looks without the bumpers..............Hmmmm.
What colour scheme Barry ? Banger racing multi with a big number on the side ?
Incidentally, do you still have your saloon ?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 27, 2008 21:36:43 GMT
Bare metal resprays are often unneccessary and the cost of them can lead to corner cutting resulting in poorer finish. Sometimes high build promers still have to be used to cover bad repairs and even factory assemby.
I have seen results of poor bare metal resprays with thin paint films, thick edges, sanding marks, gritty surfaces and lifting paint. All these can be had for a 10th the cost with just a quick blow over.
As I said its sounds good in theory especially if you know you are getting a good job
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 28, 2008 8:36:10 GMT
If a shell is taken down to bare metal Phil understanding that any repairs have been done correctly by welding and leading etch primed and a few coats of primer flattened at each stage then time given to dry before applying the top coats to allow for any sink-age, then each coat taken down with 1200/1500 wet and dry then 2000 on the final coats and polished it has to be a better job than a quick blow over Its is like all jobs you do yourself you get out what you put in if not and you have the job done check at each stage as you are paying! don't just take a photograph as the job being done correctly or go by recommendation and see a job that was done 2 or 3 years ago blow over or not There are a lot of cowboys in the bodywork trade as any other  A good doors/bonnet/boot off bare metal respray will be at least 3.5k because of the time involved and a good respray will be at around 2-2.5k done professionally. If other doors have been used I would have the trim holes welded up as they more than likely will not line up with what you have. Then you have to decide if you refit the screens, trim etc etc on any respray done correctly these should have be removed not just to eliminate the paint lines but to check under the seals for the normal faults all at a greater cost and you and you have to fit the side moldings before doing the coach lines! If you want a good job there are NO shortcuts |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 28, 2008 16:45:35 GMT
We are entirely in agreement then
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 28, 2008 17:30:08 GMT
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Post by Multi-Tech on Jul 19, 2008 18:00:01 GMT
Just a small update for you... Now only have the bonnet and n/s/f wing to prep ready for the first coat of high build primer.  A before picture of the n/s/f door after repair and ready for primer  A after picture of the n/s/f door with 5 coats of high build primer, this will then be flattend aonther 5 covers, flattend again then should be ready for top coat  Only 2 more doors and 4 wings then i can do them all again  What have i started |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 19, 2008 18:07:58 GMT
Isn't it fun keep at it looking good  |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 19, 2008 19:46:46 GMT
Looking good and thanks for keeping us up to date
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bigandy
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 351
Location: sunny walthamstow
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Post by bigandy on Jul 20, 2008 7:59:45 GMT
it is well worth it, im doing mine myseld at the mo, takes a long time but the results are good, just the bonnett to finish painting and a rear door to do then i may risk taking a photo
big andy
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Post by Smallfry on Jul 20, 2008 14:14:03 GMT
Don't worry Barry..............its just FEELS like you are getting nowhere.
Is your mate going to use a brush or roller ?
Shame you are not nearer..............I would give you a hand rubbing it down.
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Post by Multi-Tech on Jul 20, 2008 20:26:27 GMT
Thanks for the nice comments guys ;D will keep you all updated as i got along. Will also be putting something together for the club mag Smallfry thanks for the offer |
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if you take the whole shell to bare metal and etch prime use Reface or standard primer and paint I can't see how you are cutting corners 
