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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2008 20:29:35 GMT
I've just installed an expensive Mallory electronic ignition system on my '71 P5B. I haven't tried to fire it up yet, because the reading on a meter is about 12.5 volts on each side of the new ballast resistor. Should not it be about 9volts on the lead to the coil. I used the original wire from the armoured cable to the coil, perhaps I should have installed a different wire linked direct to the fuse box.
Any answers appreciated, Oliver
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 9, 2008 21:16:20 GMT
The resister may be shorting. Test it on the Ohms range (ignition off). However the armoured wire should not be re- connected to the coil though as its 12v. It must be connected to one side of the ballast resister. Another wire then goes to the coil in normal systems. Recheck your wiring per the makers instructions carefully as I would have expected the armoured ignition feed to go to the black box? The original armoured cable should work OK although I would still replace it back to teh ignition switch and not the fuse box. See my other instructions also - Thief prrof scoil setups do not have a ballast shunt
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Post by fortnum1977 on May 12, 2008 15:10:50 GMT
Hello,
off the point but my ignition gets really hot and it's loose... the key gets too hot to touch. Also it cuts out and both lights, green and red, come on. But if you fiddle with it, it all comes back to life. Bit anouying 'cos the car keeps dying and a bit worried it all might go up in flames one day.
Any advice welcome.
Chris
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 12, 2008 16:08:49 GMT
I should worry about that if I were you if it is getting that hot it probably means it is arcing so check the terminals and if necessary change the ignition switch.
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Post by norvin on May 12, 2008 16:15:31 GMT
Sounds like short, a live wire touching metal, you need to check behind the switch, i would disconnect the battery first.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 12, 2008 16:28:19 GMT
Classic symptom of ignition switch failure but also check correct operation of boteh RA Lucsa relays one for the alternator and one for teh starter solenoid as both can stick or have been bypassed putting heavy loads on ignition switch.
Modern ones are cheap so replace immediately as these circuits are unfused
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 12, 2008 17:45:50 GMT
Classic symptom of ignition switch failure but also check correct operation of boteh RA Lucsa relays one for the alternator and one for teh starter solenoid as both can stick or have been bypassed putting heavy loads on ignition switch. Modern ones are cheap so replace immediately as these circuits are unfused Spot on Phil! I would have a feel of the wires and see if they are getting warm the ammeter should say if there is a heavy discharge? if the switch is arcing there won't be, it wont be a short to chassis as you would have had other symptoms like smoke I don't think the Lucas relay would hack that sort of current they would burn out
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 12, 2008 18:12:01 GMT
Actually I ruined a good ignition switch because a PO had opened the 6RA alternator field isolating relay and bypassed the windings so that the switch took the full but varaible load of the alternator field windings in addition to the other loads. The switch is barely adequate anyway to take wipers/heater fans and rear screen load. These ought to go through a relay as well so that the switch only takes the ignition coil and relay windings loads.
The new Lucas switches I have fitted are showing sgnd of getting warm again
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 12, 2008 21:18:02 GMT
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Post by fortnum1977 on May 13, 2008 10:28:10 GMT
In my workshop manual it says that before you remove the dash you have to drain the coolant if you have a capillary type something or other.
Is this the case?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 13, 2008 15:12:47 GMT
In my workshop manual it says that before you remove the dash you have to drain the coolant if you have a capillary type something or other. Is this the case? It's all wires and switches don't forget to unscrew the trip meter under the dash it will give you a bit more room also the speedo cable for a bit more
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 13, 2008 15:51:24 GMT
On MK1 and 1a's there was teh old fashioned capilliary mechanical temperature gauge not the stabilsed electric one. The sender of this invariably seized in the one piece head/manifold which meant breaking the tube (full of ether). This meant replacement or an expensive professional repair.
Rover were not very good updating the manuals either!
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Post by norvin on May 14, 2008 9:01:11 GMT
Phil is dead right about the capillary sender, its the same on my p4, trouble is the capillary pipe tends to move as you try to undo it from the head, but normaly the tube is coiled a few turns to act as a kind of damper, so you have some leeway, and as John said you should be able to undo the speedo and trip.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 14, 2008 12:33:44 GMT
I think we have gone a bit off context as the posting was for a 1971 P5b it's Phil's fault again
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 14, 2008 15:49:11 GMT
I did not go off the subject - I merely answred the query on this thread although I now have the power to moderate ALL posts so look out!!!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 14, 2008 15:54:04 GMT
"An ounce of power goes to the head" and scrambles the brain so steady as you go
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Post by Deleted on May 15, 2008 17:49:10 GMT
Having installed my mallory electronic distributer and coil and ballast, and having wired it up to manufactures instructions i.e.red wire + armoured lead to ballast; green to"-" coil; brown to earth, I'm still confused as to what to do with the existing wires in the loom which used to go to the non-ballast coil which are 2 spade connectors, and despite feeling stupid, it's more than a month since I took the thing apart. Can anyone advise me as to which wire goes where with the new set-up, beceuse I think one of these wires goes to the tacho? Oliver
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 15, 2008 18:09:17 GMT
"In he Beginning" the purple and white go to the +ve of the coil which also goes to the bypass on the starter motor also to the ballast resistor the tacho is connected to the otherside of the ballast resistance which should be a white wire! if you have bypassed the ballast you will loose the impulse to the tacho! you will have to pick it up at the coil send me an email and I will send you the wiring diagram
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 15, 2008 19:32:15 GMT
I understood your car did not have the separate ballast but the pink resistive wire one built into he loom which needs no ballast shunt arrangement.
If you have rewired the feed just tape up the ends of the old wires. To reinstate the the rev counter see earlier
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Post by fortnum1977 on May 18, 2008 18:20:57 GMT
Hi, mine is 1972 p5b coupe... will your suggested ignition switch be the same?? thanks
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 18, 2008 21:03:52 GMT
Only if you convert back to a console switch as with earlier models - its easy to do and makes the Accessory position work properly. The bullet connectors are all under the parcle shelf and a new feed has to be run to the coil
The column armoured type is NLA and was never very reliable
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Post by fortnum1977 on May 18, 2008 21:44:02 GMT
hi, no i want to replace what I've got, can you get these on ebay too?
thanks
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 18, 2008 22:25:31 GMT
Never seen any on Ebay ever!
In any event s/h ones may not be very good and certainly the coil will need replacing. David Green may have some though. In the past I have removed the armoured cable and just used the special ignition switch with a new feed to the coil.
If you wish to keep it intact the whole lot has to be withdrawn from the engine side after undoing the retaining rings on the column brackets after removing the bottom half of the shroud and teh steering wheel
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Post by fortnum1977 on May 18, 2008 22:52:34 GMT
blimey, do you really need to do all that?? can't i just disconnect it, take it out of the dash and replace or repair??
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 19, 2008 19:11:37 GMT
Its not in the dash - yours should be in the column? Its really straight forward anyway
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