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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2008 18:33:11 GMT
I've been trying to get my P5B going for weeks now. Checked everything. Still no luck. Got a spark out of it today but still wouldn't fire. Question is are there any helpful members near me - London E1 who could help me out? Large amounts of hospitality drinks etc. etc. supplied.
Oliver
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 21, 2008 18:46:50 GMT
Sorry too far - everything? What?. New petrol?. Why did it stop?
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Post by Deleted on May 21, 2008 19:30:31 GMT
Those mobile tuning guys are good value.
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Post by Colin McA on May 21, 2008 23:35:46 GMT
you are getting a spark but are your leads on the correct places on the dizzy cap?
assuming your getting fuel in to the engine (plugs will be a bit damp if you have been cranking it).
Try getting someone to crank the engine and rotate the whole dizzy. it may start or misfire but either is a good sign.
Have you had anything replaced since it last ran.
Mark the position of the dizzy before you rotate it with tipex or the likes.
Colin
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Post by norvin on May 23, 2008 18:03:10 GMT
As Colin said you need to check the leads are correct, i would do a static timing check aswell, have you a workshop manual? if not i would buy one asap.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 23, 2008 18:31:37 GMT
If you have removed the dizzy make sure you are not 180 degrees out remove the plugs on No1 plug hole stick a screwdriver in it turn the engine by hand (big socket required in the middle of the pulley) and check at TDC you are correct on the TDC point on the timing marks on the pulley, if OK set to fire No1 lead on the dizzy cap then set the correct firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Counting clockwise round the distributor cap with 1 at the front, or 1 as the front right cylinder, odd on the right even on the left (looking from the front). 1-3-5-7 right and 2-4-6-8 left. It's a good place to start sorry about the pun  |
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Post by Smallfry on May 23, 2008 22:38:08 GMT
Is this the thing with the mallory distributor ?
Best place for that is the bin, unless it is A. Electronic, and B. Had the advance curve altered to suit the engine.
You cannot buy one of these out of the box that will work 100% properly..................its a shame that the people who sell them never mention this.
Its a bit similar to a broken watch only being right some of the time.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 24, 2008 6:02:52 GMT
Is this the thing with the mallory distributor ? Best place for that is the bin, unless it is A. Electronic, and B. Had the advance curve altered to suit the engine. You cannot buy one of these out of the box that will work 100% properly..................its a shame that the people who sell them never mention this. Its a bit similar to a broken watch only being right some of the time. I thought he was going back to a sensible distributor  if he has the timing correct with a spark and fuel he should get the odd bang now and then  |
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Post by Warwick (Ozcoupe) on May 24, 2008 8:25:16 GMT
And when you have got it running make sure you mark the location of number 1 plug lead on the distributor cap with a dot of nail polish. (More durable than Liquid Paper, etc.). Then you will always be certain when putting leads back on.
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Post by enigmas on May 24, 2008 10:06:40 GMT
Oliver, you actually haven't stated anything of technical value in your opening remark! What did you do to the vehicle since it was last running? You need to provide specific information as a starting point.  ? |
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2008 13:10:42 GMT
When last driven it was hard to start and would stall at slow revs which made driving in town close to impossible. I cleaned the carb floats and filter which were full of old junk and worked out the aed choke didn't work. Then put new plugs in and changed the distributer, which wasn't advancing, to a mallory electronic kit. Still no luck, so took the advise to get a mobile auto-electrician around, who decided all the electrics were fine, but the starter wasn't turning fast enough. Before I try and take it out, I'll re-investigate a previous problem with a stiff engine i.e. stick some oil done the plug holes. The starter turned fairly o.k to me and if the timings right I wouldn't have thought it's got to spin that quick. Thanks for the replies, Oliver.
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Post by dorsetflyer on May 27, 2008 13:53:20 GMT
If the AED didn't work, has this been fixed or have you converted it to manual since?
Without choke the car won't start.
The faster a starter goes the easier it is for the engine to fire. That's why there are a new generation of pre-engaged starters coming on the market now which give a very high speed spin for less current.
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Post by Deleted on May 27, 2008 21:44:16 GMT
What I did to get my oil pump primed was to use the 5/8" tube to the AED on electric drill method of spinning it around, with a bit of 1/2"garden hose stuck in the end. I haven't reconnected the tube since. I thought now it's quite warm I didn't need any choke system,so haven't put the tube back to the AED. Do you think this could be why my car doesn't start? Oliver
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 27, 2008 22:00:00 GMT
It will still need enrchment but AED's are notoriouly unreliable anyway and shoudl ebremoved. However even without it the engine should make some effort at statrting so I doubt your problem is solely down to it.
You need to strat from scratch and be systematic and recheck everything again as it should start & run even badly. Flattish battery can cause slow motor and poor spark as can bad battery earths through rear end corrosion and broken straps etc
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if he has the timing correct with a spark and fuel he should get the odd bang now and then 
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