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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 20, 2008 21:12:29 GMT
A real mess with parcel shelf - and the steering wheel does look bad too. Much better with the photos and the colour looks good too
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miguel
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Posts: 462
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Post by miguel on Aug 20, 2008 22:17:27 GMT
... and that button in the parcel shelf?... any ideas?
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Post by glennr on Aug 20, 2008 22:29:14 GMT
Your reset for the trip meter
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miguel
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Post by miguel on Aug 20, 2008 23:29:13 GMT
No can do! I´ve seen that. This is a 2 position switch: pulled out or pushed in.
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Post by Warwick on Aug 21, 2008 0:11:14 GMT
I forget Miguel, is it left or right-hand drive?
Could it have been a "homemade" conversion?
Our steering wheels often end up the same. It's probably the Portuguese sun. You can do a reasonably good temporary repair until you can get another wheel. I cleaned out the cracks using aerosol electrical contact cleaner with the nozzle tube attached, then filled them with 2-part epoxy filler. Sanded, then sprayed with black enamel. It depends how bad it is and if it is distorted or weaked.
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miguel
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Posts: 462
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Post by miguel on Aug 21, 2008 1:50:30 GMT
Its a LHD. The registration numbers on the documents are compatible with an original LHD. The steering wheel probably broke in the accident. Also the steering columm shrouds were broken by fathers knee.
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theroveringmember
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P5B Saloon - P4 110 - P6B x2 - 2200TC - 2000TC (S1) 2000SC........How Many Is Too Many?
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Post by theroveringmember on Aug 21, 2008 4:45:23 GMT
I recently fitted a NOS steering wheel but I think a crack is starting to develop already. Though unused it's the same age as all the used ones. Didn't pay a fortune for it though (Barry Kent) & it's much better than my original. Restoration specialists wouldn't be shy in taking four times what I paid for it judging by some enquiries at the Enfield pageant a few years ago.
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Post by Colin McA on Aug 21, 2008 9:30:20 GMT
Your pull switch is prob for extra lamps or maybe a security device. look and see if you have rear fogs or similar, it may just ground the wires the HT coil etc.
Colin
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miguel
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Posts: 462
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Post by miguel on Aug 21, 2008 20:30:42 GMT
Its a very good guess. Right now dont have battery so cannot test that. Rear fog I havent got. I´ve got a non-standard bonnet light, but I think it switches in the central console (button on the far right): So were left with some security system... Miguel
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 21, 2008 21:41:40 GMT
Only the cigar lighter and the front fog light pull switch on the far left are original. The opotrional heated rear screen illuminated pull switch went on the far left opposite, possibly in the place of the red light. Is yours fitted with a HRS Virtually every steering wheel is cracked usually its unseen under the horn ring until it spreads outwards!
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miguel
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Posts: 462
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Post by miguel on Aug 21, 2008 22:12:01 GMT
No HRS installed. I think the red light is there to remember that the engine light is on. The second button from the left is probably a fader to the rear spealer. Dont have the original one installed in the rear heater control.
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miguel
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Posts: 462
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Post by miguel on Aug 25, 2008 0:56:42 GMT
Hi, About that switch in the parcel self, I think its some kind of security system. The switch have two wires, one gies to a kind of relay, the other goes to the coil: I also removed the trim in the back of the parcel shelf, and it has been vandalized also. Does anybody have an drawing or a pattern of the cardbord? John? I want to reconstruct as original. The smallest I think its intact and original, but the bigger is cut in two and there are some parts missing: Thanks Miguel
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 25, 2008 5:44:35 GMT
I answered this in your other post Miguel
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miguel
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Posts: 462
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Post by miguel on Aug 25, 2008 21:00:25 GMT
What is the probability of finding an LHD car, parcel shelf interior trim? or it doesnt matter?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 25, 2008 21:25:17 GMT
Not much chance - this trim could easily be reproduced from cardboard and some black cloth. Only P5B's had it anyway.
Stange my first P5B had a "secret" coil/CB switch hidden in the same postion - not really very effective
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 26, 2008 5:46:38 GMT
I went down the route of making new liners but not possible from any material I could find the ideal stuff is like what was used on the old suitcases that is a very similar material highly compressed cardboard. I can't find a part number LH or RH for the parcel shelf Miguel so possibly they only made one, if not I am sure it would be an easy job to adapt
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miguel
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Post by miguel on Sept 15, 2008 13:48:04 GMT
The foam in the doors crash rails just disintegrated. Going to put new ones. Does the vynil must be stretched with the foam inside? what thickness shall I use? I know most of you are Coupés, and you dont have this crash rail installed. Thanks Miguel
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Sept 15, 2008 17:09:45 GMT
They are dead easy to fix any dense foam to your taste can be cut and fitted behind the existing vyinil (as I hav edone on several cars) or replave vynil with a good qulaity knit-back type that can be stretched taught at the edges.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Sept 15, 2008 18:36:42 GMT
Sorry Miguel - unlike your neck of teh woods its not worth restoring amy old P5 unless it has particular historic relevance and even then would be really be original. The one I am cuting up was my first (bought new by Barclays Bank Ltd London in 1969 and then owned almost till I got it (as a wreck) a elderly Lady mayor of Boston Lincs. It still needed bodywork and when the back axle blew up in 2004 I bought another non-runner via Take 5 from the club as a spares car.
It turned out that the body was far better and original than mine but engine/gearbox and interior was shot so I just swapped the good bits over. I did not contemplate swapping the ID as quite a few P5/P5B have been done.
Decent P5B's are still obtainable in the UK without resorting to wreck restoring
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miguel
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Post by miguel on Sept 20, 2008 21:17:50 GMT
A follow up on the doors crash rails. Removed the dust from the inside (former foam) and put back some new one (2 cm). Do you think its too fat? Miguel
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Sept 20, 2008 21:19:45 GMT
No that is exactly as they should be - I did mine a few years ago too
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 21, 2008 5:53:30 GMT
Miguel I know you are enthusiastic but aren't you are doing things in the wrong order removing the interior is fine but you need a body (repaired?) first then you do the interior! If you are having a full respray all the doors etc will have to come off so anything you do on the interior may be a waste of time due to overspray/dust accidental damage etc I have seen so many projects started where all new stuff has been bought for interior/exterior and the owners have given up when it comes down to the bodywork but good luck anyway I am sure your dad will be pleased
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miguel
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Post by miguel on Sept 21, 2008 9:31:15 GMT
Yes I know what you mean, but this things are only to be assembly after the bodywork repair and respray. This are things I can do home and are being stored im my mothers home nicely protected and cleaned. As for the bodywork, next sturday the car will be visited by an specialst to give its opinion and probably start working on it. Thats one of the reasons I havent removed yet the engine. I want him to see it full weight (or at least close). I´m also expecting some prices for the bodywork parts for some time. I will follow your advice and will remove the sub-frame. I´m pretty anxious to get to the mechanics part, but at least much work gets done. No time to waste. Miguel
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Sept 21, 2008 10:24:44 GMT
Good luck - I hope you are prepared for a shock with the prices that will bequoted!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 21, 2008 11:57:34 GMT
It will be interesting to see what body jigging/repair/full bare metal respray will cost in Portugal an off the wall estimate in the UK if jigging is done without any new panels I would say 7k-8.5k any advance
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