wing bolt size

[mcgill]

hi can anyone tell me the size/thread od boolts that hold wings on thanks................... how can i lose everything

[dorsetflyer]

1/4UNF x 1/4" long for most of them. If there are anything like cable clamps or such then the length goes up to 3/4".
Where the bonnet hinge fits to the wing they are 5/16UNF.
Wherever possible when replacing use stainless steel fixings.

[Phil Nottingham]

Stainless is good but NEVER for suspension/engine parts where high tensile fastenings must be used. Stainless corrodes by cavitation so they can look OK from the outside but have hollow parts inside which seroiusly weakens them - used next to aluminium it actually increases corrosion on the alloy unless insulated

Its also best to stick to Imperial sizes even though sleightly dearer as the metric equivalent may not be up to it size wise although for body fittings it does not really matter eg 6mm metric = 1/4 UNF/BSF and 8mm is approx 5/16ths

[mcgill]

thanks all,,sod knows what else im missing, i had boxes for everything,off to the bolt shop 2moro,,, all excited its going back together . i took sharp slating hammer to the main body,along with 8 wire brush wheels,just to find any rust or sign of rust,cut out and replaced ,the following both sides
box section under front wing,splash panel,lower a post(though someone did one side a post),inner/middle outter sill,inner/outter d post(not whadhams,these have the recess for b/d posts and alot thicker gauge+ebay) little floor repair above the rear jacking point,new jack points,inner wing above wheel arch repair panel,,,,,and a repair using curved metal from a old bonnet to make good one lower tonnaeu till whadhamds get in .and a little repair in the boot,....all has been cut out and grafted in ....of course all the making good to inner wheel wells where sills came off....anyold under seall that came off with the wire wheel ,along with all repairs have .all has been painted with a 25 year rust inhibitor and tetrosral.......3 lower door repairs............... the wings are absolutely solid,but where wire brushes to remove underseal and painted and undersealed.TO DO LIST IS find £1000 whip the engine out to see if its the rear oil sear or totque converter leaking,replace brake piping,fit lpg,,replace rear screen rubber/door rubbers.l lower door rubber channels carpet ,map pockets/moquette panels/seals.radiator.......just like the rest of project,this list will probably grow....oh yes,then paint it ................i have all photos of before/during/after if any help to anyone....

[Phil Nottingham]

Typical restoration work! If rear seal is leaking oil will be blackish - if it isTC seal then reddish brown ATF. It should be easy to see if you leave white paer underneath overnight fater running it. It could of course be both but the TC seal can leak loads once it starts.

You have checked the flame traps etc and that the cylinder head gasket(s) are not blowing?

[mcgill]

checked the traps when first bought....oli is brown,so i think ive dislodge the rope when i wacked it in park,may be torque too....it was a slow roll but horse appeared/no brakes.....still locks in park....,this was my grandads coupe from new,he died in 92 and it sat in garage till my next door neighbour bought it,and put in his name..shame grandad and i shared same name so nearly a one name in log book.neighbour started on it and gave up when his wife left him....cae was only on the road for 13 years.....once the wings were removed the actual body looked great,but it was just the underseal.....,thus i took the pointed hammer to find all...........seats are nice/but the wool and mosqette just crumble at touch....need £500 to finside inside....

[Phil Nottingham]

Regretably you will need several more £500's for many years to come - it is worth it if you count how many £500's make up a modern car