|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 13, 2009 19:29:19 GMT
Before i put the rotor arm in and fire the engine up for the first time in who knows how long, when should the oil pressure warning light come on? Should it be on when the ignition light is on? or is it only active when the engine is running?  |
|
|
|
Post by dorsetflyer on Feb 13, 2009 19:59:37 GMT
Neil it should come with the ignition light as soon as the ignition is switched on.
Once the engine starts it should go out in three or four seconds.
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 13, 2009 20:36:17 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 13, 2009 22:17:38 GMT
I suspect you have some mixed up connections probably behind the instrument console?
The oil pressure switch sender could also be faulty - both warnings should light up on switching on ignition.
You may find the oil pump has lost its prime too
|
|
|
|
Post by Colin McA on Feb 13, 2009 22:52:35 GMT
The wire from the alternator for the ignition waring light is the brown with yellow tracer. this goes to the 3aw and then the warning lamp.
The oil pressure lamp is a white with brown tracer that goes from the sender to the warning lamp.
The only real place where these could be reversed is the dash panel, as both lamps are the same it is easy to get them confused when removing them.
If you pull the dash out and look at the wires to prove the theroy, and check the bulbs whilst your in there.
Colin
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 14, 2009 8:24:31 GMT
Thanks for that, will have a rummage around behind the dash this afternoon.
|
|
|
|
Post by eisdielenbiker on Feb 14, 2009 8:27:18 GMT
Hi!
When my P5B has been standing for a week or two it behaves normally in respect to fuel supply and oil pressure. As I have the standard mechanical pump I have to crank about 5 seconds. After the 3rd second the pressure light starts to flicker. I take this for an good sign.
I use 10W-50 fully synthetic oil.
Mark
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 14, 2009 10:35:03 GMT
Got in a bit too deep! Its always the simple things. Found wrong bulb holder in wrong hole! Next question is.......Why does my ignition light not work? Looks like the 3AW relay is kaput. I'm assuming one leg should be to earth so the bulb will light? None of the legs are connected. Is there a modern alternative to this one? |
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 14, 2009 10:38:54 GMT
No! They are obtainable off Ebay and Wdahams - Alternatively upgrade to a modern alterator and dispense with Field isolating relay (6RA) and the Red or Black regulator box. Perhaps a PO has done this or tampered with the wiring?
Check WL lead is OK to alterator by by running cable direct to alternor and 3AW.
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 14, 2009 11:29:41 GMT
Looking at thr price of a 3AW, it would be cheaper to fit a nippon denso alternator. Has any one done this or has anyone got a wiring diagram for doing it??
|
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 14, 2009 12:53:43 GMT
Modern alternators will only only have 2 cables - the main battery/starter solenoid feed which is the thick one and is just connected on There a thin warning light one - which is just connected too but at the 3 AW plug just join the 2 non- earthed cabels together.
The feed to the 6RA should be removed and taped up an this will deactivate the now defunct flat plug at the alternot end.
What is the output for the Nippon alterntor as if higher than say 60A and especailly if you have fabric covered main supply cable it will need upgrading
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 14, 2009 13:22:49 GMT
I was hoping to find a 50 or 60 amp one. It depends on which will line up the easiest. Changing the feed cable is ok it only needs to go to the terminal on the starter motor to join the other lives.
|
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 14, 2009 13:32:04 GMT
If its the older battery sensed type alternator as opposed to a machine sensed one there will be a extra lighter live feed cable to connect up to the same place (make sure you do not confuse the WL one with it though). The Lucas modern versions will fit straight on I understand.
Try SEARCH as this has been covered before
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 14, 2009 14:58:41 GMT
Can anyone scan the take five article from nov 2000 on uprated alternators and post it or send me an email please.
|
|
|
|
Post by Colin McA on Feb 15, 2009 0:13:35 GMT
I have an electronic copy of this I can send.
It is pretty straight forward, just a case of removing the redundant wires and connecting the wires that go to the 3aw.
You will read in the article Jim had to get a different Pulley and the guard didn't fit. I used a different alternator but had no problem with my pulley I think it was Lucas A115 or A133. I did a bit of research and got a brand new one for £20 delivered from ebay. It was listed as a maestro and is 55amp.
One thing I did find was that the fan belts was no good and had to try out a few to get the correct length.
Course you know that just because the warning light is not working doesn't mean the alternator is not charging! I went about a year with the 3aw disconnected with no problems though if the alternator does stop charging you get no warning.
Colin
|
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 15, 2009 11:33:39 GMT
My wqrning light had a spell of coming on for no apparent reason several years ago - the ammeter and a voltmeter I have also connected showed it was charging too. It is a good idea though to have a waning the ignition is ON
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 15, 2009 19:54:11 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Feb 15, 2009 23:29:36 GMT
I have an electronic copy of this I can send. Colin I'd like a copy if I may please Colin. Mine has a Mitsubishi alternator fitted but I haven't yet figured out how it's been grafted into the loom. Thanks, Warwick. warwick at regscom dot com dot au |
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 17, 2009 14:38:04 GMT
Would run without the warning light but the ammeter is kapput, along with the temp gauge, fuel gauge and the voltage regulator. Some one has had fun with the electrickery in the past. Have been reliably (i hope) informed that the lucas A127 is a good fit and was fitted to most fords in the late 80s and 90s so shall troop off to the local breakers (£25 to you me old son) and see what i can find.
|
|
|
|
Post by Colin McA on Feb 17, 2009 19:55:16 GMT
I think that you may be correct about the A127. Looking on the web there is a 45 amp and 55 amp version. They tend to be very cheap new which is why I didn't go used. Mini's are a good source, don't worry if you get one with the wrong fixings as the front rotates. The unipart number for mine is GXE2254 and is the 55amp version. I was able to fit the pulley and guard from the 11ac. A quick fix for you may be the battery indicator that goes in the cigar lighter socket. like this one on ebay cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=270287499037  |
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 25, 2009 16:41:51 GMT
Have liberated a 70 amp A127 alternator from a transit van, and have three terminals on it, B+ D+ and a W. B+ goes to the battery terminal on the starter (which is going to be replaced with 10mm cable), W is for a rev counter?? (according to the transit forum) and am assuming that D+ goes to the wire that would have gone to the AW3 if it was still there. Is this right???
|
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 25, 2009 16:46:39 GMT
Logically I would have guessed the W is "warning light" terminal but who am I to contradict the Transit forum.
See if you can find a Transit wiring diagram or one for another car using this type
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Feb 27, 2009 20:53:18 GMT
A127 alternator fit with no problem, its physically a straight swap. I found a transit diagram, W is for Wave and is used for the rev counter and/or glow plug. B+ is the main charging feed and D+ is for the warning light. Because its a 70 amp unit i want to upgrade the wiring to 10mm. If i disconnect the brown/white cable from the old alternator, and fit a larger cable from new alternator to the stater solenoid, will this muck up my ammeter readings as its the wrong side??
|
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 27, 2009 22:54:17 GMT
The ammeter will not record the charging this way and will overload it anyway.
If you want to keep it - you have to run a new cable from the alternator to the main terminal block under the dash using large Lucars soldered. This replaces the Brown/Orange cable. Then another Brown cable goes from the other side of teh ammeter shunt to the solenoid - double up with a new cable?
Better still just replace the Ammeter with voltmeter segment from a car of the 1970's with a Lucas circular dial. Feed this via the ignition accessory and unpulg the ammeter cables which will remain live
|
|
