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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2009 22:22:46 GMT
I've read all the info on alternators on the forum but am still confused as to which is the best to go for. I'd considered a Lucas 17/18 ACR as used on Ford Escort etc. Thing is it seems to be longer than the 11AC and might not clear the rocker cover. Has anyone got any experience of trying to fit these?
Any advice appreciated, Oliver
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Post by harvey on Jul 28, 2009 13:30:04 GMT
17/18 ACR alternators were fitted to the P6B, but you need the special alternator bracket for that alternator to go with it. Once you have both of those it's a straight swap other than the wiring.
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Post by Colin McA on Jul 28, 2009 17:26:51 GMT
I fitted the A127 type 55 amp from a maestro. perfect fit with my bracket only needing a different belt and some wiring, even the pulley fitted.
Colin
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Post by redsunbeam on Jul 28, 2009 18:29:05 GMT
Just like Colin said except i fitted a Lucas A127 70 amp from a fiesta. Fit a treat- only the wiring to change.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 30, 2009 17:42:23 GMT
I've gone and bought a new Lucas A127 55amp alternator. I've figured out half the wiring , but am still confused about which wires should be moved elsewhere or become redundant.
Has anyone got experience of this changeover and could advise me exactly which wire goes where so I don't blow my alternator up.
Any help appreciated, Oliver
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 30, 2009 21:48:43 GMT
The actual wiring is simple - what is more of an issue is the condition and size of the existing main feed cable and making safe the old ones which number more. The existing main cable is not really big enough. I would strongly recommend replacing the thick brown main battery feed with a heavier grade cable suitablely protected with the correct plug (see Vehicle Wiring Products). Identify which it is at the starter solenoid and just cut the ends and rewire direct. The small warning light cable at the alternator can still be used if in good condition - the other end is at warning light can 3AW which should be removed and the two none black cables just joined together. again it may be better just to run a new cable straight from the alternator plug WL terminal to the old cable from the 3AW warning light can that goes straight inisde to the ignition light. The black (or red) 4TR control box should be just unplugged and the plug taped up. The 6RA relay also should be disconnected - remembering that there is both a live an ignition feed which must also be taped up or preferably disconnected at source (the battery feed also goes to the solenoid) The loom ends with the field and 4TR plugs will then be fully dead  Do not twist new cables together - use proper terminals either crimped or soldered and use heat shrink sleeving to cover rather than PVC tape. Make sure new cables are sheathed and clipped up properly so they do not chafe or touch the exhaust manifold.  I have seen some terrible botches that are a danger and fire hazard - and will damage the new alternator Good luck.  |
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Post by Warwick on Jul 30, 2009 23:57:01 GMT
Arc welding cable makes an excellent battery-to-starter cable. Much higher quality than automotive stuff. It has much finer strands of copper and thicker, softer, PVC insulation. It is very flexible. The down side is that you need to solder your own lugs on the ends.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 31, 2009 17:40:17 GMT
I'm halfway to sorting the change of alternator. Problem now is finding a new shorter fan belt. I've spent all afternoon going to my local autoshops explaining I just want one about an inch shorter, unfortunatly I've decided they are all as thick as s**t and totally unhelpful.
Does anyone know a car model number which might fit so I can quote the exact type required? I thought perhaps a late SDI.
Thanks, Oliver.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 31, 2009 19:56:21 GMT
Old motor factors used to have a device to measure it - all modern bets have the size in mm on them so they should have X ref catalogue to match up with part numberl
Try Halfords and go through by hand yourself as blets ize is part of their part number?
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Post by Colin McA on Aug 1, 2009 10:37:16 GMT
If you have fitted a A127 and used the P5b pulley you will be looking for a 10x1150.
I think the orginal p5b is 9x1125 but this will be to small. I tried a few belts that were common before settling on the 10x1150.
As Phil says the number is printed on the belt. so if you look for one that says AV10x1150 then you've got the right belt.
I would say just to cover myself that you should get a length of string and with the alternator where you want it run the string around the pulleys, mark and measure it.
Colin
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2009 12:18:33 GMT
I've found an alternator belt that fits - Quinton Hazell QBA 1088 that's on a
21/2" pulley not the 3" 11AC type. My only problem now is the ammeters' not working. Back to the wiring diagram.
Thanks for your help, Oliver
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 2, 2009 13:02:45 GMT
It depends how you have picked up the feed to alternator as you need to feed it to ammeter shunt under parcel shelf are the rear of the column - Brown/Orange cables - if the Bown feeds from the solenoid are not PVC they will require renewal too. I have a colour wiring diagram I can email you of the standard P5B set-up so you can identify the connections. If you want thsi sent me your email address However a voltmeter is often a better iindcator of battery condition at higher currents the later alternators produce |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 5, 2009 10:01:01 GMT
Ammeter works now,I just pulled the wires out of the 6RA starter relay and No. 1 fuse
I'd thought I needed it connected up to make the starter work, evidently not.
Oliver
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 5, 2009 15:38:22 GMT
The Starter relay just protects the inhibitor switch
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