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Post by Eric R on Oct 27, 2009 9:34:18 GMT
Folk who have replaced rear leaf springs tell me that the replacements are no better than the originals. Local heavy engineering firm can apparently "re-temper" the originals. I have not heard of this procedure before. Is this good practice? I haven't approached the company yet to ascertain costs etc.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 27, 2009 11:34:46 GMT
Use SEARCH - the originals are best as they have the nylon interleaves - without these replacements are better. Retempering will not last as long as the new ones as the springs are already weakened and will have or will developed stress cracking unless low mileage and have no wear ridges in them
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Post by Eric R on Oct 27, 2009 20:05:07 GMT
Visisted engineering business today. They suggest a cost of around £100 to re-temper BOTH to same level, but they ask if i can obtain the original data. I wonder what the factory setting was?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 27, 2009 23:10:50 GMT
They varied bewteen models/years - they are always set to a higher curve as they settle - skilled spring setters usually get it right.
Salter made the front torsion bars but Rover probably used various suppliers for the rear springs as bolted and clenched rebound clips were used
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Post by Warwick on Oct 28, 2009 0:16:08 GMT
Eric, Have a read through this thread. roverp5.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=rover12&action=display&thread=3338It's probably far too early to tell, but eventually we should be able to get some performance opinions from McGill, Miguel, and Glenn, all of whom have recently refurbished their springs. McGill has used home-made replacement plastic shims, Miguel has reused the originals, and Glenn has used Holden shims. If the Holden shims prove to be a suitable replacement, and you want to go down that path, just let me know. They are very cheap and readily available. They are also so light that postage costs are negligible. If they are successful on Glenn's car, perhaps someone could talk David Green into stocking them.
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Post by glennr on Oct 28, 2009 7:43:57 GMT
Eric, If they are successful on Glenn's car, perhaps someone could talk David Green into stocking them. or the incoming club spares officer. Well the Holden shims appear fine. It is a bit hard to tell though, as of course you can't see what is going on . The shims moved slightly in the hole but I can't see that as a problem. It may be better as they can float more with the flexing of the springs. Anyway they'll do for a few years yet. I packed mine with marine grease. Very pleased.
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Post by Eric R on Oct 28, 2009 10:36:07 GMT
Thanks for the information and links people. I wasn't aware that shims were the problem of the car leaning to one side. The engineers convinced me that they could re-temper one or both springs but best if i had original Rover data, or could provide them with the "ride" i need. Having no view either way on the latter, i am in the hands of the Viking Gods here. I would hate to attempt to repair one side to find that i have made matters worse!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 28, 2009 10:55:53 GMT
Car leaning to one side may also be due to incorrectly adjusted front torsion bars - the correct settings of which are given in the WSM as also the the correct ride heights front and rear.
Never a good idea to one of a pair in anything!
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Post by Eric R on Oct 28, 2009 19:42:51 GMT
WSM - Workshop manual? will have to source. Thnx Phil
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 28, 2009 21:29:55 GMT
Club sells them!
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Post by Warwick on Oct 28, 2009 23:36:05 GMT
I wasn't aware that shims were the problem of the car leaning to one side. No they're not Eric. They're really a minor part of the equation. They are just a means of reducing leaf to leaf wear where the pressure is the greatest - at the ends of each leaf. I suspect that they were far more important on a Holden than on a P5, because of the grease and the gaiters. Holdens and other local leaf sprung cars used bare, exposed springs so the shims on the Holden reduced wear and the potential for squeaking. To my knowledge only Holden used them. The Ford Falcon and Chrysler Valiant didn't. We don't have constantly damp weather for extended periods and no need to salt roads, therefore unprotected leaf springs do little more than gather surface rust.
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Post by stantondavies on Nov 4, 2009 17:32:15 GMT
Back around 1990 I had my rear springs re-tempered, but they didn't last and after a couple of years or so I replaced the springs with JRW heavy duty springs which are much thicker. Have wrapped them with tape to protect them and they are still going strong.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 4, 2009 19:56:14 GMT
Keep them clean and loads of grease covered up with Denso to keep the water and dust out better than bits of plastic IMHO
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Nov 4, 2009 20:31:35 GMT
I have just finished putting my axle back on with referbished springs, These are second hand wadhams springs,iI replaced the originals two years ago because they had sagged.I did not clean or grease them when i changed them then cause they were coming off with the axle when i had time to do it all properly.The ride with the saggy springs was waft like,the ride with the replacements was hard. After stripping them, cleaning the rust off,painting them,greasing them with graphite and wrapping in denso the ride is once again waftlike.It makes a huge difference.
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