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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2009 20:13:49 GMT
ok yesterday... now no pedal pressure,not losing fluid that i can c, just goes straight to the floor. ps did this with the throttle jammed at 5000 rpm very scarry any ideas
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Post by stantondavies on Nov 13, 2009 20:45:23 GMT
Master cylinder is my first suspect if you are not losing fluid. I would still check round the flexi and metal brake piping, the master cylinder, servo and wheel-cylinders/calipers for leaks, in that order. Does the pressure come back if you pump the brake pedal? I can't see that the throttle jammed open would affect the servo resulting in no pressure, but others might know better.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 13, 2009 22:45:49 GMT
Servos can stick but are fail safe so that either brakes lock on or just gives no power assistance. Assuming no fluid loss does point to master cylinder. Is fluid level dropping as faulty Servo can drink it and faulty m/c can loose fluid down pedal and behind carpets
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2009 8:21:21 GMT
sounds expensive then
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2009 8:24:19 GMT
not losing fluid... still no pedal when pumped :-/ill investigate later when wind gets below force 10
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Post by stantondavies on Nov 14, 2009 9:52:47 GMT
Looks like an exchange master cylinder. JRW charges £130 (£14 for kit) + carriage + VAT for EXCHANGE. John Wearing is slightly cheaper if he still does them. My experience with fitting new seals has been variable with what looks like a perfect master cylinder still not working with new seals. I think the quality of the new Far East manufactured kits is suspect and any Girling NOS is 40 years old. An exchange cylinder does at least come with a guarantee.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2009 12:13:48 GMT
not pumping fluid.... deffo master cyl the wind did drop to force 9 ;D
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Post by davidg on Nov 14, 2009 12:44:59 GMT
Give me a call and i can get a master cylinder refurbished for £97.50 plus postage, exchange. David Green 01284 788269/07713 785619
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Post by norvin on Nov 14, 2009 13:04:56 GMT
Have you taken off the rear drums and checked cylinders? are you sure there is no brake fluid lost.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2009 17:19:13 GMT
dry as a bone........... no fluid coming dn bleeding pipe when pedal operated with screw open
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 14, 2009 17:26:06 GMT
There may be an air lock or blockage in mastercylinder (or elsewhere in servo) - undo union outlet to servo slightly (it will have to comeoff anyway probably) and then pump pedal to see if fluid comes out. If it does not the strip down of M/c is required as least but make sure internal holes are clear If it does connect directly to T junction by makeing up special pipe to bypass Servo and then see if you can get brakes - if you cannot master cylinder requires overhaul - if you can the it Servo (may also be both!) Use SEARCH [glow=red,2,300]Servo[/glow]The Girling Mk2 is very unreliable when old and can give all sorts of strange an dvery dangerous sympton - reconning it yourself is unlikely to be successful (for very long, if at all) and even exchange ones are not long lasting so its best to fit the cheaper/simpler/reliable Lockheed Type 7 (P6's and others) Land-Rover and P4 specialists sell them. Hope it is not the Servo as they are not cheap
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Post by Deleted on Nov 15, 2009 13:37:39 GMT
definitly not the servo phil............. it aint got one? ?? no sign of one even been fitted anywhere, no unit or accumulater. answers on a postcard!!!!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 15, 2009 15:09:36 GMT
The Servo should be underneath the inlet manifold - rather large circular object! you brakes are obviosuly in need of TLC
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Post by Deleted on Nov 16, 2009 16:50:18 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2009 18:18:46 GMT
success........ master cyl at fault and only 15 quid from a banger driver ;D
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Post by stantondavies on Nov 18, 2009 23:11:55 GMT
Well done! Keep the old one to refurbish or exchange in the future. In 20 years I've replaced the master cylinder five times, sometimes I've refurbished with new seals, but they don't last long. Even exchange cylinders have failed after a relatively short time.
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Post by patrick on Jun 25, 2014 15:45:17 GMT
Hello,
Looking for a master cylinder 3 liter Rover P5 Coupe 1963 under the vase lookeed. Did you? price?
Regards,
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Post by patrick on Jun 25, 2014 15:50:23 GMT
Hello,
Looking for a master cylinder 3 liter Rover P5 Coupe 1963 under the vase lookeed. Did you? price?
Regards,
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poppy
Rover Newbie
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Post by poppy on Nov 1, 2014 9:51:44 GMT
Hi recently fitted recon master cylinder from wadhams but having trouble getting pedal back constant air from bleed nipples at rear fluid ok from master and from servo unit pedal comes and goes l got pedal back by jamming brake pedal over night but only half a pedal soon as you try to bleed it dissappears any ideas would appreciated
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Post by enigmas on Nov 1, 2014 11:04:20 GMT
It's your life and perhaps someone else's if you don't know what you're doing. Bleeding the brakes is a straight forward process but you need to work methodically from one corner and work your way around each wheel. As you disconnect the brake lines cap the loose flared ends with some plastic tube and a small bolt (7/16" threaded into the plastic tube) This way all the brake fluid won't drain out making bleeding of the system harder than it need be. The only rule you need to keep in mind is that air will rise to the highest point...so consider this when you start bleeding the system. If you've rebuilt or drained the the master cyl bleed it first before connecting any lines to it. Simply top up the reservoir and have an assistant place their thumb over the outlet port everytime you lift off the pedal. This should bleed the master cyl in a few strokes. You can attach the line and then bleed the system at the next point ( the brake booster). The best method here again, if air is in the system is to disconnect the inlet pipe to the booster and do the thumb thing again. When that line produces fluid and no air with every pedal depression, reconnect it. Then remove the outlet pipe (if there is no bleed nipple and do the thumb thing on the outlet port. Then reconnect once there is a clean stream of fluid. You should now be able to move to one of the front wheels and bleed that caliper at the nipple in the traditional manner. If you have a long plastic hose, immerse one end in a small container of used brake fluid (preferably in a clear bottle) and attach the other end to the bleed nipple as you or your assistant pushes down on the pedal, open the bleed screw and you should see first bubbled fluid and eventually a clean stream with each successive downward pump. Close the screw off before your assistant raises the pedal after each bleed stroke down. Do not reuse the dirty aerated fluid. Discard this with you waste engine oil or like. That's it. If air is still in the system after this process, there's a faulty seal or component in the system.
As the car only has single circuit brakes one weak point in the system will cause a total loss of brakes. So please don't 'wing-it' with the repairs/overhaul.
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kaiser
Rover Fanatic
worth his V8 in gold!
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Post by kaiser on Nov 1, 2014 11:36:03 GMT
I don't know if you know what you are doing, but it might need more bleeding than what you have done! There is also a chance that your booster is faulty, and you could have brake fluid accumulating there. It is normally not a problem bleeding the brakes, if everything works fine, but sometimes there can be a problem that can be hard to find. I remember one time bleeding the brakes on a motorbike, the filler hole from the reservoir did not get uncovered, because the piston did not retract fully. Simple in retrospect, but difficult to find in real life. Hi recently fitted recon master cylinder from wadhams but having trouble getting pedal back constant air from bleed nipples at rear fluid ok from master and from servo unit pedal comes and goes l got pedal back by jamming brake pedal over night but only half a pedal soon as you try to bleed it dissappears any ideas would appreciated
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2014 11:53:58 GMT
Leaving the brake pedal forced down for some hours can compress small air bubbles in aerated fluid so restoring a pedal but only for a very short while. I use old brake pipe ends with a short pipe sealed with solder as plugs when removing pipes or components to save loosing all the fluid. If replacing a master cylinder it makes sense to bleed it first as described by enigmas.Stopping close on a couple of ton of Rover from speed on a rather feeble looking handbrake assembly isn't my idea of fun and with the old single systems any part of the brakes failing means no brakes at all so they have to be right.With proper adjustment and especially with the servo not operating the brake pedal should be like standing on a brick.
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Post by djm16 on Nov 2, 2014 14:02:28 GMT
I only managed to get all the air out of my system with the help of 20 psi applied to the top of the brake fluid reservoir through a homemade adapter.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2014 16:09:09 GMT
I only managed to get all the air out of my system with the help of 20 psi applied to the top of the brake fluid reservoir through a homemade adapter. In that case there is something very wrong with the system.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 2, 2014 21:03:53 GMT
I only managed to get all the air out of my system with the help of 20 psi applied to the top of the brake fluid reservoir through a homemade adapter. In that case there is something very wrong with the system. There is a system you can buy Kev that does exactly what djm has done aimed at speed and one person doing the job!
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