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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2010 10:15:40 GMT
Ive loved P5/P5b's since i was a kid, now im 24 and ive finally got my hands on a P5 3 litre of my own. But i have no manual. So i have a few questions, if anyone knows the answers that would be great  The car is: 1964 P5 Coupe 3 litre, Mk2 RHD 1.I have a lever on the steering column same side as the gear changer (near side). Its not the winkers or the main/side lights which are both on the off side. What does it do??? 2. Im getting water in the front foot wells. The front screen seal looks in good shape. Most/all the water comes down the driver side front panel (the carpeted bit just in front of the driver door) Can water come in through the air duck between the wipers? 3. This is a really dumb one. There are two oil breathers on the 3 litre engine. One on the rocker (rear top) the other on the cam cover (near side front) Which one do i fill the oil with??? All help much apreciated Thank V much Dave |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2010 15:19:25 GMT
I don't know much about the 3 litre engine but there are plenty on this forum who do.
You need to tool yourself up with a Workshop Manual post haste. You can't run one of these cars without one or, at the very least, the owners manual.
There is plenty of choice on EBAY. Look under Rover P5.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 6, 2010 18:15:37 GMT
Its even dumber not asking questions or guessing - do not hold back!
The column switch is 1st speed start and holds other gears at higher revs before changing - same effect should happen with kickdown - it will make it start in 1st gear instead of 2nd which is normal
I endorse the WSM - the P5 club sells them and also there is loads on here - use SEARCH
Both filters need oil wetting after clenaong in parafin
Screen leaks are more likely but it can leak in through air duct covers but not grille - reseal both with black silicon. Covers are engine side one has blower on it the other the electrics
Welcome to P5 ownership -tell us more
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Post by p5pete on Apr 6, 2010 20:44:24 GMT
You need to tool yourself up with a Workshop Manual post haste. You can't run one of these cars without one or, at the very least, the owners manual. There is plenty of choice on EBAY. Look under Rover P5. Why don't you tell him he can get all the books from the club? Are you not a member? |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2010 23:39:49 GMT
Ah brilliant. A question i forgot to ask whas why does my P5 change up to 2nd gear so quickly. So thanks Phil you killed two birds with one stone there Im bought the car of David Green, you probably all know him because he breaks P5s for spares. The engines runs smooth as silk and most of the mechanics are solid. The bodys a bit crap tho as i found out today. I was taking it in for an MOT tomorow but i stuck a screwdriver through the sill today (just curiosity) and found they were just full of rust so ive prob got another 2-3 weeks work on them. Same with the bottom D post. Doors are full of filler but they look ok so im going to ignore them lol. Wings are awful, i know purists will hate it but im considering GRP fiberglass replacements... Im on a low budget. Everything else i can fabricate myself. Interior is worn, i like to think of it as and authentic patina. Still love the car! yfrog.com/6zroverhorrorjyfrog.com/0jroverijCopy and paste these links. The one at the top is the awfull sills the bottom one is the prior the demolition. |
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Post by davidg on Apr 7, 2010 0:32:42 GMT
David,
Did you have to do much to the engine to get it running?
David Green
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Apr 7, 2010 8:03:25 GMT
I've got a good passenger side 3 litre front wing and doors off a '65 3 litre coupe?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 7, 2010 9:55:06 GMT
David Green will supply all secondhand parts you need - new wings are rare and whilst glassfibre is better than rusty steel - I have a rear one on my 3 litre I would take up Roy's offer. P5B are different at front but can be made to fit or just fit them and use the fogs as some have done. The P5B centre valance will then be needed also  I also have a pair of rear fibreglass wings for sale if you are interested.  Where are you situated? Its best to sort out the sills properly now - Only Wadhams sells the 3 parts; inner/centre and outer and these fit well. If you do renew the whole lot support and brace the shell when it is standing level - giveaway for sagging is uneven door gaps and doors that do not easily shut without slamming. The sagging often occurs before sills are removed so judicious jacking required to get it back straight. There is loads on here about it and as body is same as the P5B you will need to look in that section for most answers The outer sill is thin and not structural and is cosmetic and to fill up the gap at door bottom but the centre an dinner are vital and will be corroded at least at the ends. They can be plated if you cut out the rusty section and SEAM weld in 16g metal Car looks smart - it has got wrong ends to side strips   |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2010 19:09:38 GMT
Hi David, the engine was running the same day Darren delivered it. Fuel block, bad terminals on the coil and all the plugs were shot. Fixed those bits and it fired up with as if it had never stopped. I could probably have ignored the front sills and it would still have passed the MOT. But I guessed there was a dodgy repair lurking in that area so i thought i should sort it. Rear wings are pretty good thanks Phil. Im in Andover, Hampshire. Im going to repair the sills with sheet for now. (welded properly of course, no pop rivets or fiberglass) Then do it proprely, PROPERLY next year when i have more money. Doors seem fine though. Interested to know how much for that front wing Roy? I started pulling the front of the car apart today there amazingly easy to work on! |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 7, 2010 19:28:39 GMT
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Apr 7, 2010 22:21:54 GMT
I've sent you an email David..
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Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2010 21:17:19 GMT
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 20, 2010 21:23:26 GMT
Neat - you know what you are doing!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 20, 2010 21:34:09 GMT
Yeah I’m kind of an aspiring jurno as well, hence why I’ve written the article.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 20, 2010 21:45:53 GMT
That sill repair is good enough to be permanent and will last years if properly protected
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Post by glennr on Apr 20, 2010 22:06:43 GMT
Welcome David, I have sent you an e mail |
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Post by Warwick on Apr 20, 2010 22:21:27 GMT
Welcome David, I have sent you an e mail I wondered how long this would take! Onto it like a bloodhound. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2010 12:56:02 GMT
Very nice work. Looks strong!
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Post by glennr on Apr 21, 2010 14:04:04 GMT
Welcome David, I have sent you an e mail I wondered how long this would take! Onto it like a bloodhound. WOOF! |
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Post by David on Apr 21, 2010 15:18:02 GMT
Anyone else noticed Glenns fondness for lamposts ;D |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 21, 2010 16:11:59 GMT
...if only it were restricted to lampposts!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2010 8:35:49 GMT
I'm very surprised to see that you say you've got issues with the sills, and that you bought the car from David Green, as those two statements don't usually go together David has a bad habit of charging top dollar for the cars that he sells, but then you do get what you pay for, and he is known to be ever so slightly... err... retentive could i say ;D at times, but in the best possible way, cos when David Green says that the work has been done, it hasn't just been done, its been done bloody well. Other than that... ignore the purists, as it is your car, not theirs... and we've all seen that front wing on ebay for £275.00, so nobody will give you a hard time for buying plastic... so long as she still looks the part. Although in saying that... if you know your way round fabricating... why not buy some door and or wing repair panels? Simply cut off the rott, weld on the new, then fill in the crease, rub it down, prime it, then paint it... job done. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2010 8:54:45 GMT
I've just been having a look at your photos......
You did THAT... with just a screwdriver!!!! what are you, a hoodie ;D
Though i've also seen what you've done with one of your sills, so my advice is to get on to either David Green, or JR Wadhams, and get yourself a cople of wing repair kits, cos if you can fabricate a sill like that, restoring the bottoms of your front wings should be childs play.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2010 9:37:06 GMT
sorry i havnt replied to anyone i didnt realise there was a 2nd page. The job doesnt take that long in hours, but because I had to wait for paint, filler and waxol to dry etc. It probably took about 7/8 hours across 4 days.
Oh and David just sold the car as seen, I wasnt disapointed with what I got. Its no supprise it needed a little work.
I think it is one of those mid 80's profit making restorations. Where everythings done really crap and quickly just to make it look nice and get it sold.
I only discovered the rot with a screwdriver. I did that with a crow bar and a club hammer.
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