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Post by regprescott on Jul 25, 2012 19:14:23 GMT
Hello Rover fans, well today all Iv'e been hearing is a clonkity clonk noise from the front wheel area. It only happens after Iv'e been going backwards, just when I drive forward there it goes, clonk, and it does it just the once.
The wife has asked me to get on the forum to find out what it could be, personaly I'd be happy with the radio turned up a few notches, but, best to be on on the safe side eh.
Over to you, rover buffs.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 25, 2012 20:09:56 GMT
Detached disk pad lining or badly worn pads/disk pins - loose wheel nuts
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Post by Roy of the Rovers on Jul 26, 2012 12:40:21 GMT
Saw this on an opel manta, one of the caliper bolts had come out and the caliper was floating on the remaining one with exactly the noise you describe. If the brakes look ok I would recommend getting it up on a ramp. Ask quickfit to take a look and quote you for it. You dont actually have to get it done there!
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 26, 2012 17:38:07 GMT
I had the 4 back plate nuts loosen on the Mini front drum brakes which made a clonk when first going back or forward. The caliper fixing bolts on P5's are substantial and meant to be tight with lock tabs which are often missing/used so that is feasible - there is always a first but knocks/clunks on a P5 are not safe if happen with brakes
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Post by regprescott on Jul 27, 2012 16:27:14 GMT
I found nothing wrong with the brakes or fixings etc, but did find this  can you spot what is wrong  ? Over to you, rover buffs Reg. |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 27, 2012 17:05:39 GMT
There seems to be a shortage of rubber bushes? Nice engine though
Were the tyres wearing unevenly
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roverp5b
Rover Fanatic
whats in your mirror
Posts: 198
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Post by roverp5b on Jul 27, 2012 18:46:43 GMT
Reg Ithink I got it, you have no hoses attached to the water pump, ;D
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Post by regprescott on Jul 27, 2012 19:52:32 GMT
There seems to be a shortage of rubber bushes? Nice engine though Were the tyres wearing unevenly Thanks for the complement, it's amazing what the wife gets upto with her cillit BANGVery well done Phil, something the casual observer may have not noticed ( MOT man) is the rubber bushes seem to have collapsed, with a crowbar in there it moves laterally quite an amount. When braking hard, it pulls to the left a bit tyres wearing OK Will put some new bushes in tomorrow and report back, not sure if that's the clicking noise though? Thanks Oh no hoses , thats what the water leak is then! LOL  Reg |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 27, 2012 21:26:11 GMT
it may be the clicking but either way the bushes need doing
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 28, 2012 5:28:01 GMT
A lot of effort gone into the engine bay stevew! I Like the floating water pump  |
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Post by enigmas on Jul 28, 2012 12:27:56 GMT
Reg, the pulling to one side and the clonking on initial braking could be a shot rubber bush on the front suspension torque reaction arms (at the rear). If your power steering leaks...that would do it. Also, when did you last rebuild the front suspension ball joints? (this also gives these symptoms)
As an aside, you've got to stop polishing the engine and drive the car a bit more. ;D ...and Reg, go gentle with the crow bar...it's not really an authorised tool!
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Post by regprescott on Jul 28, 2012 12:29:57 GMT
Well this what was found, as you can see it has been rubbing on the suspention shock tower  So new bushes fitted and as far towards the rear of the car as possible and it still apears very close, just enough for a screwdriver  It has stopped the clicking noise though so , good job done. Took just under 4 hours including drilling out the split pin holes and making up two new re-bound rubbers. Thank you all for your suggestions, another job done thanks to all you rover buffs. Off to do some more polishing, by for now REG |
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Post by enigmas on Jul 28, 2012 12:35:30 GMT
Reg, the subfame mounts also look well past their prime. I'd also speculate that if the top inner wishbone bushes are shot so are quite a few others.
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Post by regprescott on Jul 28, 2012 14:36:03 GMT
Reg, the pulling to one side and the clonking on initial braking could be a shot rubber bush on the front suspension torque reaction arms (at the rear). If your power steering leaks...that would do it. Also, when did you last rebuild the front suspension ball joints? (this also gives these symptoms) Very interesting Enigmas, what are the torque reaction arms? |
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Post by harvey on Jul 28, 2012 14:58:20 GMT
Reg, the pulling to one side and the clonking on initial braking could be a shot rubber bush on the front suspension torque reaction arms (at the rear). If your power steering leaks...that would do it. Also, when did you last rebuild the front suspension ball joints? (this also gives these symptoms) Very interesting Enigmas, what are the torque reaction arms? The one you can just see the end of in the very bottom left of your last picture. |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 28, 2012 14:59:10 GMT
Reg, the pulling to one side and the clonking on initial braking could be a shot rubber bush on the front suspension torque reaction arms (at the rear). If your power steering leaks...that would do it. Also, when did you last rebuild the front suspension ball joints? (this also gives these symptoms) Very interesting Enigmas, what are the torque reaction arms? I would think Vince means the Rear Radius Arm Bush  if not I am sure he will let us know when he wakes up |
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Post by regprescott on Jul 28, 2012 18:37:10 GMT
Ah radius arm bushes, I was thinking that is what enigmas meant, yes they are a bit "manky" I have a list of parts to order for the front suspension rebuild  ready for the winter. I've been for a long drive and it steers so much better it's like a different car. Thanking you all, Reg |
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Post by barryr on Jul 29, 2012 20:05:03 GMT
My top arm bushes look similar - I have a replacement set on standby but wondered is it possible to remove the top arm bushes and replace without messing with scary torsion bar?
The wsm describes removing all - not just top. How did you do it Reg?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 29, 2012 21:21:55 GMT
Top ones are easy enough - no need to touch torsion bars but whatever you do DO NOT loosen bottom link bolts with bar tension on.
undo top ball joint
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Post by enigmas on Jul 29, 2012 22:40:15 GMT
Barry, Phil's right. It's quite straight forward. Jack the car up under the front suspension arm and leave the shock absorber attached. This way there is no load on the top wishbone. Vince.
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Post by barryr on Jul 30, 2012 22:49:05 GMT
Sounds good. One job to look forward to!
Thanks all
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Post by redsunbeam on Jul 31, 2012 8:31:23 GMT
Theres no reason to be afraid of the torsion bar, just follow the workshop manual. The only advice i would give with removing the torsion bar is unless you have a low height trolley jack, jack the car up as high as you dare otherwise the trolley jack comes all the way down and still has tension on it. It took about three hours to remove one side. That included having to drill out most of the split pins.  |
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Post by barryr on Jul 31, 2012 18:18:51 GMT
I feel motivated! - we even have the same axle stands!!
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 31, 2012 21:07:45 GMT
I feel motivated! - we even have the same axle stands!! You cant beat a bit of P5 male bonding Barry  I stuck it on the correct post this time |
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Post by Simon H on Jul 16, 2014 17:22:43 GMT
I need to do the wishbone bushes (or whatever Rover called them) on my P5B. The WSM seems to demand the removal of the hub and a load of other gubbins. Is that really necessary?
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if not I am sure he will let us know when he wakes up 
ready for the winter. 
