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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 16, 2014 17:39:08 GMT
Not all - just support it well
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Post by Simon H on Jul 16, 2014 17:55:54 GMT
Thanks Phil. That's how it looked to me but I'm always wary of anything with a torsion bar going TWANG!!! I also need to replace a lower swivel boot which I expect WILL require the removal of a lot of gubbins. Or maybe not?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 16, 2014 18:15:41 GMT
Not at all - all you do is break the taper with torsion bar load on AND top ball joint fixed
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Post by Simon H on Jul 16, 2014 18:27:23 GMT
Thanks again Phil. Top ball joint fixed? Sorry to sound a bit thick. Does that mean fixed as in still connected or fixed as in made immovable?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jul 16, 2014 19:03:02 GMT
Still connected - sorry for the ambiguity but do be careful there is a lot of latent energy in the torsion bars just waiting to do serious injury to anything getting in their way!
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Post by djm16 on Jul 17, 2014 0:38:22 GMT
I suggest leaving a support an inch or so under the lower ball joint when you try to drop the lower wishbone. When the lower wishbone comes whanging down (if it does, mine did not), then it may well bend the radius arm. Mine were already well bent before I got the car.
On reassembly, it really helps to slacken off the torsion bar adjusters as far as they will go before trying to reassemble the lower wishbone. Without this it is a sod to get the radius arm reassembled.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jul 17, 2014 5:10:10 GMT
Put a trolley jack under the bottom link and an axle stand under the subframe, undo the top nut on the bottom ball joint, then the bottom nut slowly a few turns, it may all stay there if it's been a while without being disturbed? then if it stays there you will have to give it a blow with a copper hammer to break the joint, when broken take the weight of the car then undo the nut and slowly let the jack down.
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