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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 15, 2012 18:11:08 GMT
Two new Unleaded Heads was the intention  but a bit more will be done like new Cam, Lifters, Chain and Sprocket I don't want to take it apart any more  the engine has only done 38k but while it's apart it would be silly not to renew what I can. As you can see there are benefits of changing the oil on a regular basis nothing has been cleaned! Just having a bit of trouble getting the bolt in the Damper undone !*!*!*!*   |
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Sept 15, 2012 18:36:44 GMT
WOW no crud,how often do you change the oil?, or do you look at condition rather than mileage?. I know my Tranny connect specifies oil replacement at 12,000 miles, but i replace it at 6,000. These are all motorway miles,the oil stays cleaner for longer,both before and after a change,whereas at 12,000 the oil seemed to go black a lot quicker.
This reminds me i have to change the rovers oil,like soon
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 15, 2012 19:09:10 GMT
Bearing in mind the low annual mileage I change it every year so it can be 1.5k? less or a bit more I use the cheapest basic oil works out a £10.60 a Gallon buying 25lts at a time so with the price of petrol as it is  an oil change is a cheap way of saving yourself trouble When the boy's in blue ran the V8 they followed the service schedule and had sludge problems! then they changed the oil weekly regardless of mileage so I followed their OLD mechanics advice Andy |
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Sept 15, 2012 20:07:08 GMT
Fiar play John,i dont think i have done 1,500 miles since i had the car. Have changed the oil though.
Mine looked just as yours does when i took the top off,so it has been serviced well too, took it out for a run today,and the cam wear is real prominent especially when at idle,but runs well at a gallop.
as you say well worth doing the top end if you have the decks off.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 15, 2012 20:47:09 GMT
I think Andy with any engine that stands more time than it runs an oil change is a must! I change mine before laying up for the winter that's my schedule The engine is quiet on tick over and there is no noticeable cam wear the new cam will give better torque at low rpm and economy, I was going to fit new rockers and shafts but it would be daft as there is so little wear! I got some shafts and rockers off a 2002 LR 90k miles and they are no where as good mine so a no brainer The new heads will be fitted with the latest type Sintered Steel guides and seals and Composite gaskets to get the CR down. |
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Post by cyf on Sept 15, 2012 21:12:14 GMT
I change the oil every 3200 Miles and we did 7500 Miles in three years of ownership
I don't know how my engine's interior looks like, but certainly not like yours John.
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Post by petervdvelde on Sept 15, 2012 21:43:46 GMT
Hello John,
Nice work, engine looks really clean. Didn't you consider to take the engine out?. You already had a fair amount of work to remove the exhaust manifolds, inlet maifold, radiator ect. If you take the engine out, you could replace the core plugs and rear crankshaf seal as a precaution. It would not be nice if they are rusted and starting to leak in a few month.
I also fitted the camshaft you described in the Rover V8 in my MG and am very pleased with it.
Good luck with the rebuild
Peter
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 16, 2012 5:41:46 GMT
Hello John, Nice work, engine looks really clean. Didn't you consider to take the engine out?. You already had a fair amount of work to remove the exhaust manifolds, inlet maifold, radiator ect. If you take the engine out, you could replace the core plugs and rear crankshaf seal as a precaution. It would not be nice if they are rusted and starting to leak in a few month. I also fitted the camshaft you described in the Rover V8 in my MG and am very pleased with it. Good luck with the rebuild Peter Hi Peter no need to remove the engine the rear seal is Neoprene and the block and core plugs are like new I decided to do the heads as I got fed up with the engine pinking on 95oct and the 99oct I use is more expensive than diesel  One good thing the V8 is easy to work on  |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 16, 2012 5:50:25 GMT
I change the oil every 3200 Miles and we did 7500 Miles in three years of ownership I don't know how my engine's interior looks like, but certainly not like yours John. It's just my own routine Cyf the transmission oil is every two years I read an article a few years ago on how oil degrades once used and left standing for months! I cant find it otherwise I would post it  |
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Post by bebopdeluxe on Sept 16, 2012 6:13:59 GMT
Cleaner then my bath that be I was told that the Police used to change the oil every 1000-2000 miles on their big engined cars. Is that true??? I could see the cars being serviced every two-three weeks if that was the case. |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 16, 2012 7:30:26 GMT
Cleaner then my bath that be I was told that the Police used to change the oil every 1000-2000 miles on their big engined cars. Is that true??? I could see the cars being serviced every two-three weeks if that was the case. On a weekly basis Glenn for the V8's so the mechanic told me it was more cost effective! I suppose the bought the oil in large barrels for a fraction of the price we would pay It doesn't take long to drop the oil on their weekly inspection |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 16, 2012 9:45:33 GMT
All looks good John and makes any work far more pleasant  Your car is so "sorted" working on it must be a pleasure. As an aside re degradation of oil. I've had the same transmission ATF in my power steering since 1971 and it doesn't leak so never needs topping up. I did syphon out a small quantity a while ago and put some new stuff in. The old oil is still clean and red and seems to be doing the job. If I had a complete change, you know what would happen? I bet the steering box would start to leak! I'm very much using "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" when it comes to this part of my car. I'm rather proud of the fact that, externally, my steering box is dryer than a piece of stale bread! |
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Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Sept 16, 2012 14:00:32 GMT
That reminds me crossplies, i bought a mk1 granada 30L. it was a one owner job,the steering was hellish stiff,as if it had no power steering at all, so first job on the list,a new pump.
Well i wipped the pump out and the fluid that was in the pot looked exactly like windoleen,pink and gooey, so i replaced the old pump after a clean,put new fluid in and hey,it felt like the best steering on any car i had driven before,or since including the rover.
But if like you say the fluid looks good,and it does not leak,leave it
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Post by Baldrick on Sept 16, 2012 18:48:50 GMT
John, do you change the filter every time you change the oil?
What compression ratio,is your engine?Are you reducing the compression ratio with a thicker gasket?
What cam are you fitting?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 17, 2012 6:07:03 GMT
John, do you change the filter every time you change the oil? What compression ratio,is your engine?Are you reducing the compression ratio with a thicker gasket? What cam are you fitting? I change the filter every other time, the engine is 10.5-1 so according to harvey and others it should drop by 0.6 at least but I gather there is a 1.2mm composite? if so it will drop ever more I don't know? I need to find out more? Cam wise harvey recommends a 3.9 I just want torque and economy |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 17, 2012 16:06:28 GMT
Ready for the rebuild I hope I am not boring you guys at least now I can get at cleaning the hard to get at bits The pulley was a Bar Steward tried all the usual methods starter motor, air wrench and after talking to harvey he agreed with my last resort sump off and a bit of 4x3 between the crank and block it still took a 4' bar to release the bolt and no it wasn't locktighted  |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 21, 2012 18:05:49 GMT
Moving On Slowly! I have decided to go for an American Crower Cam it gives more Torque where I want it at 1500-2500 it should give an extra 12bhp and at 4500 22bhp there are a couple more with a similar spec by Piper and Kent but a bit more expensive! I should get it Tuesday with a bit of luck! I fitted the new type Guides which are Sintered Steel and slightly Bulleted to help with the gas flow! not that I need it I Re-cut all the valves on an ancient Black and Decker Valve Facer at 45 degrees a wonderful piece of 1950's kit owned by my Veteran Bike friend in the Village it was a joy to use the seats I had done by a local engine rebuild shop and needed very little cutting which was good very little grinding needed Push Rods have all been checked in the Lathe and run true, New Cam Followers and an all Steel Sprocket with new Chain all ready for next week Here are a couple more pics. Engine Bay still has some bits to improve  New Type Guides and Stem Seals  Re-cut Seats  Completed Heads  |
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Post by bebopdeluxe on Sept 21, 2012 18:14:27 GMT
I'm drooling |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2012 19:46:45 GMT
Lovely quality work John I'm looking to see what bits of the engine bay need improving  Perhaps that would be a good quiz topic! |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 21, 2012 20:30:39 GMT
Lovely quality work John I'm looking to see what bits of the engine bay need improving Perhaps that would be a good quiz topic! Thanks Richard I have a few things to do |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 21, 2012 20:34:17 GMT
I'm drooling It's your age Glenn ;D |
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Post by Baldrick on Sept 21, 2012 20:40:10 GMT
I wish I was retired!!!!!!! ;0)
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Post by Kev on Sept 22, 2012 6:12:12 GMT
Aw..... Takes me back to when i built my "brand new" engine, everything clean & nice.
I had my SD1 Vitesse heads skimmed & i ported them myself, they are certainly the better head.
All looks good John & i bet she's gonna zoom when you have finished.
Big Kev.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Sept 22, 2012 6:12:25 GMT
I wish I was retired!!!!!!! ;0) No you don't the days are too short I haven't forgot your collars  |
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Post by enigmas on Sept 22, 2012 9:33:10 GMT
John I have just been reading through the posts and note that you change oil frequently but tend to use the cheapest available product.
These are purely my views but, since you've decided to fit both a new cam and lifters I'd be looking to run it with an oil containing an additive package specifically including ZDDP. Newer oils aren't formulated for old style 'push-rod & lifter' engines anymore. As well, ensure the lifter bases are coated with a dob of high 'pinpoint' pressure grease. You don't want to damage the cam lobs on initial start-up!
* Interestingly, a relative in Austria has a new turbocharged diesel VW Passat. Unbelievable...goes like a skinned cat...and the sound from the engine is nothing like a diesel!
I asked him about service intervals. Get this...30,000 kms or 3 years...oil & filter. Yes, I took a look at the service book to verify this.
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but a bit more will be done like new Cam, Lifters, Chain and Sprocket I don't want to take it apart any more 
the engine has only done 38k but while it's apart it would be silly not to renew what I can.
an oil change is a cheap way of saving yourself trouble 
Your car is so "sorted" working on it must be a pleasure.
Perhaps that would be a good quiz topic!
