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Post by biggybas on Jan 26, 2014 22:02:35 GMT
Please help can anyone advise me on the correct veneer type and wood stain colour to use or information on the original wood and colour and where to get it?.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Jan 26, 2014 23:47:23 GMT
It does depend on the age of the car.
Mine is a 1970 P5B Coupe and after much searching I identified the wood as Sapelle.
There are some threads about the wood types used if you perform a search.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 27, 2014 18:13:16 GMT
The "correct" colour is really a darkish old fashioned brown and not with a high gloss glass smooth surface. It fades also particularly on Coupes although some later Coupes were of a lighter/golden more more modern looking appearance
As EMids Rep says they had different veneers according to year/model. What is yours?
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Post by guidedog on Jan 27, 2014 20:44:09 GMT
I have a 69 coupe the colour is Walnut. Your best bet is to do a match
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Post by biggybas on Jan 28, 2014 1:28:02 GMT
Mine is a 72 p5b coupe
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 28, 2014 6:36:55 GMT
As Alan said Sapelle is a good veneer match it's a close grain wood, a light weight Mahogany. You will find it difficult to match the original finish so it's best endeavors! as suggested by biggybas one of the Walnut stains looks good but it's a personal choice  |
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tonyl
Rover Rookie
Posts: 55
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Post by tonyl on Jan 28, 2014 14:51:19 GMT
For new veneer, you could do worse than Capital Crispin (http://www.capitalcrispin.com/) in East London. A friend bought veneer from them to do the dashboard and all the other wood in his Alvis Speed 25 (probably more than in a P5B) for about £100. He thoroughly recommends them.
They list 4 types of sapele, amongst a list of approaching 200 different veneers.
Tony
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Jan 28, 2014 15:53:32 GMT
When I matched up the Sapelle I took the original (after sanding off horrible plain dark brown varnish) to a veneer supplier which if I remember correctly was in Cambridge or that neck of the woods (pardon the pun).
I still have some left over at home and I'm sure I put some pics on here somewhere
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 28, 2014 19:15:37 GMT
When I matched up the Sapelle I took the original (after sanding off horrible plain dark brown varnish) to a veneer supplier which if I remember correctly was in Cambridge or that neck of the woods (pardon the pun). I still have some left over at home and I'm sure I put some pics on here somewhere I think the Veneer supplier was in Mildenhall Alan? Art Veneers |
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Jan 28, 2014 23:00:34 GMT
Having checked my archive files John you are correct. It was indeed Art Veneers. Can't find the pictures although I did find a piece of the veneer. The scan doesn't do it justice. It has a nice sheen to it and is more variegated than it appears here:  |
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rick
Rover Rookie
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Post by rick on Jan 31, 2014 17:57:54 GMT
Please help can anyone advise me on the correct veneer type and wood stain colour to use or information on the original wood and colour and where to get it?. |
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rick
Rover Rookie
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Post by rick on Jan 31, 2014 18:16:43 GMT
Hi new to the forum so am finding my way around . The veneer i used for my 1966 coupe is a type of african cherry wood called Makore , I had to re veneer the corner piece that the clock sits in ,it matches the glove box lid perfectly .
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Post by enigmas on Jan 31, 2014 23:18:25 GMT
Rick did you do the work? If so, how did you go about the process since that item has quite a deep curve to it?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Feb 1, 2014 9:47:17 GMT
Cherrywood was used on later 3 Litres but not early ones - as for 3.5's I suspect in BL days they used whatever they could get their hands on at the right price as their is really wide variation
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Feb 1, 2014 10:36:42 GMT
Rick did you do the work? If so, how did you go about the process since that item has quite a deep curve to it? Wait until you get to re-veneering the edges. Fiddly, curved surfaces. Lots of info on how to apply veneer if you Google. |
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rick
Rover Rookie
Posts: 11
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Post by rick on Feb 1, 2014 18:51:55 GMT
Rick did you do the work? If so, how did you go about the process since that item has quite a deep curve to it? Hi the curve is no problem as the veneer is thin and flexible , you have to match the flow of the grain so as it follows that of the adjoining glove box .The curve is then along the grain so will bend alot more than is needed . I dont have a vacuum press so i used contact adhesive and it worked just fine. |
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rick
Rover Rookie
Posts: 11
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Post by rick on Feb 1, 2014 19:08:47 GMT
Cherrywood was used on later 3 Litres but not early ones - as for 3.5's I suspect in BL days they used whatever they could get their hands on at the right price as their is really wide variation I have found that cherry wood door cappings are veneered so need to be sanded very carefully to avoid rubbing through the veneer . brown or "wallnut" cappings on later cars are either sapelle or teak and are only veneered on the return ends . |
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Post by petervdvelde on Feb 1, 2014 23:28:13 GMT
for my MGB i made a walnut dashboard, center console, door cappings and steering wheel. When applying veneer i used a lot of clamps which can be bought rather cheap. Over the veneer i fitted a pieces of 10mm thick rubber and between the clamps and the rubber, i used plywood to spread the load more even. With this method you can also glue veneer on curved parts    Regards Peter |
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Post by enigmas on Feb 2, 2014 8:27:36 GMT
Very nice Peter...you certainly don't do anything by halves.
Your method for doing the curves is a good one. As a school boy I made a few veneered pencil boxes and a chess board, but these were basically flat surfaces easy to ensure clamping and to exclude air bubbles. We were always told to use some thin paper between the veneer and the clamping surface.
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