Engine cutting out

[harvey]

You only find out just how heavy a P5B is when you have to push one!
As for your problem the only thing I would suggest is go back to basics and methodically check everything including things that have already been done. Once everything has been checked ot try the car again and if the problem reoccurs check out for a spark & fuel etc. at the time it won't start.
If you take it into a garage, make sure they give it a THOROUGH testing (even if you have to pay extra for it) you don't want to be paying for work and then being the garages unpaid test driver.

[Phil Nottingham]

Subject to the above which is a good idea if you cannot sort it yourself - its often a combination of things due to disuse eg slightly sticky valves, dashpot pistons etc and these disappear after few good runs.

If you are still on the original pump - an electric conversion is a real good idea as vaopr lock easily occurs on these engines with modern fules and slightly worn pump

[eightofthem (Andy)]

Hi andy i had a similar fault with a land rover,I went over everything twice and replaced anything that could be replaced. It turned out to be a piece of rubber from the fuel supply line that had drifted into the float chamber inlet pipe,every now and agian it would just stop dead, the rubber must have moved a little in the pipe stopped the flow of fuel and bingo no more go! try it a bit later and vrooooom game on. My old dad found it lodged, took it out and presto sorted. good luck. and let us all know the outcome.

[Phil Nottingham]

Its never a good idea to fuse the ignition to the coil - strictly speaking the same applies to the pump but for safety, an oil pressure cut-out as fitted to some SD1's or a modern inertia switch as fitted to almost every fuel injected car, should be fitted to the pump to prevent pumping out petrol in an accident.

Pressure regulators are avialable for electric pumps but in my experience this is not necssary if the carb needle valves are in good order - but its a valid theory but not in this case although it may resolve it for a while until the needles valves become so worn nothing will prevent leakgage.

I have heard that the viaton tipped needles formerly sold for excellent and long life sealing disolve in the additives put in modern unleaded petrols - this may be your problem if you think it is flooding.

Let us all know the outcome please

[redsunbeam]

I once had the same thing on a sunbeam rapier, gave all the symptoms of fuel starvation when warm. Let it cool down and it would run again for a bit. Turned out to be a hairline crack in the rotor arm that opened up when hot allowing the spark to go to earth. Barely able to see the crack when it was cold. Took weeks to find it!!

[10mpg]

I have had similar problems with a car recently turned out to be a faulty coil, luckilly i have access to a coil load tester at work, but most people can only test by substitution (which is pain if you have the origional theif proof igntion coil).
Good luck with the sorting, it will all be worth it when you have you car running A1...

[stantondavies]

If the problem occurs again, try opening the fuel fiiler cap in case a vacuum has formed in the fuel tank. This can happen if there are problems with the breather. I think it unlikely but as it is so easy to check, it is worth trying.