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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2014 19:02:55 GMT
The rear OS door of my P5b seems to have dropped slightly. The hinges don't have any wear in the pins and I'm assuming this is just the result of forty odd years of a heavy door causing the metal to settle or warp slightly.The hinges dont have any shims on them and I'm reluctant to try the long bit of wood as a lever trick in case I damage something. I tried to undo the hinge to pillar screws but they are so tight that even if the slots dont distort I think they might shear,I'd thought I hignt be able to put a very thin shim behind the inner two bolts to tilt the top hinge enough to take raise the rear of the door.Are these bolts always so tight? The problem is very minor but irritates,any suggestions?.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 18, 2014 19:58:15 GMT
The rear OS door of my P5b seems to have dropped slightly. The hinges don't have any wear in the pins and I'm assuming this is just the result of forty odd years of a heavy door causing the metal to settle or warp slightly.The hinges dont have any shims on them and I'm reluctant to try the long bit of wood as a lever trick in case I damage something. I tried to undo the hinge to pillar screws but they are so tight that even if the slots dont distort I think they might shear,I'd thought I hignt be able to put a very thin shim behind the inner two bolts to tilt the top hinge enough to take raise the rear of the door.Are these bolts always so tight? The problem is very minor but irritates,any suggestions?. Can be very tight Kev have you a one of those percussion screwdrivers the one you belt with a hammer? |
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Post by guidedog on Aug 18, 2014 20:00:07 GMT
Hi Steve, Yes the screws are that tight. You can use a impact driver or The RIGHT size screwdriver using a hammer. Try turning the screwdriver whilst tapping the handle into the screw. For extra purchase use a pair of grips or adjustable spanner \\\\, this idea works most times. If you remove all the screws you need to release the door retainer. Also support the door .
Bob
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Post by guidedog on Aug 18, 2014 20:12:59 GMT
Sorry Kev wrong name trying to multitask
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 18, 2014 20:52:33 GMT
Impact driver is essential but can shear the screws. However heating up the screw heads with Oxy-Acetylene is safest provided very small narrow high pressure flame is used. This is essential as some hinges are alloy not cast-iron. Forcing either is likely break them or shear the pin.  Are you sure the sills have not corroded? The smallest amount of body sag makes a huge amount of difference to door fit and panel gaps |
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Post by enigmas on Aug 18, 2014 21:27:30 GMT
Kev, as suggested, an impact driver works best and will release the hinge screws. I wouldn't try and loosen the screws just using physical force with a large Phillips screw driver as you'll most likely round the the heads. The impact driver preserves the head as the force is directed inwards with a sharp anti-clockwise twist.
I have no idea why Rover decided to make the hinges alloy as there's considerable weight on them from the very weighty and substantial P5 door. You'll find you'll only need to pack the bottom A pillar hinge with 1or 2 pieces of mountboard card to correct the drop.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 19, 2014 5:27:23 GMT
I have no idea why Rover decided to make the hinges alloy as there's considerable weight on them from the very weighty and substantial P5 door. There were steel ones used as well Vince I am sure David Green will say the same, he has cut a few off with a disk cutter over the years  |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2014 9:46:49 GMT
The car has had sills at some time or another,none of the panel gaps are really that good. I did manage to undo one with a long driver that I'd welded a nut on the shaft of,so that it can be turned with a spanner,it wasn't rusted just very very tight. I have had a go with my impact driver but the heads are going to shear off rather than undo,the hinges do look a rather puny affair for such heavy doors and the pillars themselves aren't exactly heavy duty.
I used a crow bar with wood padding to push the top of the door towards the pillar and it now opens and closes without fouling so I'll leave it alone for now,I'm reluctant to try heat although I can't see them budging any other way.
Advice as ever,much appreciated (both by me and 'Steve'!)
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2014 10:28:25 GMT
The car has had sills at some time or another,none of the panel gaps are really that good. I did manage to undo one with a long driver that I'd welded a nut on the shaft of,so that it can be turned with a spanner,it wasn't rusted just very very tight. I have had a go with my impact driver but the heads are going to shear off rather than undo,the hinges do look a rather puny affair for such heavy doors and the pillars themselves aren't exactly heavy duty. I used a crow bar with wood padding to push the top of the door towards the pillar and it now opens and closes without fouling so I'll leave it alone for now,I'm reluctant to try heat although I can't see them budging any other way. Advice as ever,much appreciated (both by me and 'Steve'!) I know you're going to leave them for now but it wouldn't do any harm to squirt some plus gas or equivalent through the courtesy switch hole to create a "mist" of penetrating fluid around the back of the screws. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2014 11:29:17 GMT
Good idea,if I remove the screws to the front door latch the screws are almost right behind it.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2014 16:18:00 GMT
Good idea,if I remove the screws to the front door latch the screws are almost right behind it. Even better! I didn't think of that. Also, the door check strap bracket on the B/C post isn't far above the bottom hinge. On my car there's enough of a gap to poke the usual spray can extension tube through so that's another access point to give the hinge internals a good soaking. It can only help. |
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 19, 2014 17:37:03 GMT
Our Coupe has steel hinges which were also used on early P5B's and later ones if there were strike shortages. The levering of doors to "reset" them is a quite legitimate method but can strain/break the hinges
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 19, 2014 20:05:03 GMT
Our Coupe has steel hinges which were also used on early P5B's and later ones if there were strike shortages. The levering of doors to "reset" them is a quite legitimate method but can strain/break the hinges I checked mine they are steel! well it was a while ago since I hung the doors |
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Post by enigmas on Aug 19, 2014 20:31:16 GMT
My MK 3 hinges are alloy. In contrast the ones fitted to my ZB MG Magnette are steel and substantially larger in size.
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