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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 14, 2015 11:25:32 GMT
Someone had used instant gasket silicon on my 3 Litre manifold when they replaced the servo. It had only been on about 3 months before it started leaking water around the temp gauge area. It took ages to remove the manifold - it was really stuck and the locating dowels make it difficult to rock. It also took a long time to remove the remains too and bits were still in the waterways after that.
The correct Rover thick paper gasket which I greased both sides gave no problems and was till intact and leak free years later when I decoked the head and had to remove the manifold. The mating surfaces were still as good as they were after I cleaned them years before
I do accept that the mating surfaces have to be good and the waterway at the front end leaves very little metal so I would use some non-setting sealant like Red Hermatite
Something better on the side cover is a good idea too as the cork gasket even if stuck on still moves and causes oil leaks
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Post by djm16 on Jan 18, 2015 4:24:03 GMT
Duuuh! I deliberately replace the "[" with a "{" so that you could see the code.  |
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Post by mangan on Apr 14, 2015 9:03:12 GMT
I have now dismantled the box and new parts like brake bands and friction discs are on order. I have now discovered that yet another special tool is needed for setting the tension of the brake bands. Since I was lucky last time I asked the forum for a special tool I thought that I give it another try. Does anyone know where I can find "BW 2B Brake Band Gauge" for sale, to rent or to borrow?
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Post by ozriderp5 on Sept 9, 2017 22:03:53 GMT
I have a MK1 3 Litre which I assume has this box.
It takes off in first, changes to second for about 1 second then straight to third, is this normal?
Can it be adjusted?
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Post by harvey on Sept 10, 2017 16:14:55 GMT
I have a MK1 3 Litre which I assume has this box. It takes off in first, changes to second for about 1 second then straight to third, is this normal? That's not normal. Is the 1-2 shift very early as well? That's above my pay grade I'm afraid. If the 1-2 shift is OK, and it's only the 2-3 shift that's early, then the WM is pretty comprehensive so I'd have to trawl through that, so that's the only suggestion I can make for you. |
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Post by harvey on Sept 10, 2017 21:13:59 GMT
I have a MK1 3 Litre which I assume has this box. It takes off in first, changes to second for about 1 second then straight to third, is this normal? PS. Has it got an Intermedaite Speed Hold, and if so have you tried that to see what happens? |
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Post by ozriderp5 on Sept 10, 2017 21:36:00 GMT
It has the manual kick down handle, that works ok.
Fine 1st to 2nd, it's 2nd to 3rd that is too quick.
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Post by enigmas on Sept 10, 2017 23:14:19 GMT
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Post by djm16 on Sept 12, 2017 4:50:32 GMT
I am not in front of a manual at present, but my recollection is that early DGs were 1st-gear-start and later ones were 2nd-gear-start.
Change up is triggered by a centrifugal speed controller operating against a spring. Change-up from 2nd to 3rd in an old box (mine) is around 15 mph on minimal throttle / coasting. Change-up is inhibited by a lever mechanism linked to the throttle that slides a spacer against the speed controller spring, tensioning it. So WOT and kickdown are just varying degrees of inhibition of change-up modulated by compression the spring. Coasting changeup is set by the residual tension in the spring and is not adjustable except by replacement of the spring(s).
The solenoid (MkII) and manual Intermediate Speed Hold operate the lever mechanism change-up inhibition in the absence of throttle input.
Two things are adjustable - the throttle opening at which change-up starts to be inhibited, and the amount of inhibition provided by the Intermediate Speed Hold operation.
To some extent you can compensate for the very low speed 2nd to 3rd change-up by over adjusting throttle operated lever, that is what I have done.
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Post by ozriderp5 on Sept 12, 2017 8:58:29 GMT
Mine is a 1960 Mk1, I'll have a look at it, thanks
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