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Post by pearse on Oct 6, 2015 16:44:07 GMT
Hi has anyone used the V8 radiator & heater hose set from JR Wadhams? I've just got a set but the top radiator hose which I took off looks nothing like the new item. I'll try to attach a picture. Should I fit the new one (it'll need a bit of a twist and some force) or should I try a homemade hose like the original seems to be? Attachment DeletedAlso has anyone ever successfully freed a seized rear heater tap? Any tips other than soaking it in penetrating fluid for the shaft and silicone spray for the interior rubber ( I presume) washer.
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Post by petervdvelde on Oct 6, 2015 18:05:16 GMT
About 1,5 years ago i bought a full set of hoses and all fitted very well. The left one on the picture isn't the right one. Maybe a different engine with a different thermostat housing or front cover has been fitted to your car. My car also has a seized heater tap. I disconnected the rear heater and used the connections for my LPG system
Peter
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Post by davewright on Oct 6, 2015 20:07:10 GMT
Be careful of releasing the rear heater tap. I have read warnings here that if you free it up it will leak a lot. This is because the rubber washer that keeps the seal will no longer be in a working condition and it is only the fact that it is a seized mass that stops the water getting out.. I am planning to replace mine with some different valves at some point as the design of the original is rubbish.
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Post by barryr on Oct 6, 2015 23:13:15 GMT
Mine is seized and no amount of plus gas has helped. At least it is open so for now I've left it.
The jrw hoses fitted mine perfectly if that helps.
On the subject of heaters mine isn't working at all. The hoses to and from it get hot, the heater valve is hot but no heat gets to the car - I don't understand it !
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Post by enigmas on Oct 7, 2015 0:49:10 GMT
You've probably got an air lock as the heater core is higher than the block and radiator (unfortunately a bad design). It's probably the highest point for the whole cooling system...and air bleeds to the highest point. Do you ever hear a gurgling noise in the car and wonder where its coming from?
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 7, 2015 17:48:12 GMT
Agreed with air lock diagnosis,I've found filling the system as Rover suggest with the engine running and topping up with the cap off until it gets to running temperature while turning the heater taps on and off the only way to shift them.
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Post by barryr on Oct 7, 2015 21:49:06 GMT
I will try this fill method. I hadn't noticed it before.
My car isn't on the road currently but I start it several times a week while I'm getting it sorted. I was struggling to understand why every now and then it'll start to overheat ( obviously I am on the case and shut it down quickly) when this happens it spurts coolant out the overflow.
I have all new hoses, new radiator and water pump and stainless pipes. The only parts I had not replaced or reconditioned are the heater matrices and rear heater taps.
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Post by gingerbeer62 on Oct 7, 2015 22:36:46 GMT
I will try this fill method. I hadn't noticed it before. My car isn't on the road currently but I start it several times a week while I'm getting it sorted. I was struggling to understand why every now and then it'll start to overheat ( obviously I am on the case and shut it down quickly) when this happens it spurts coolant out the overflow. I have all new hoses, new radiator and water pump and stainless pipes. The only parts I had not replaced or reconditioned are the heater matrices and rear heater taps. I have seen that when you start the car from cold with the cap off, the level becomes low enough to top up. After top up put the cap back on. What I have noticed is that the gasket in the Radiator cap on my car wasn't good and I think now, that it was leaking when the car was static without the engine running, say overnight, as water ran back down to the radiator height. I think it was leaking out the cap as it then has a very small "water head" on it. The seal needs to be good to stop it leaking.
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Post by pearse on Oct 12, 2015 22:33:17 GMT
I've searched the forum and seen pictures of other cars and it seems that the thermostat housing on mine is different. The hose connection points upwards at about 45 degrees toward the passenger side. I've. fitted a hose but its not great, as there's not much clearance under the bonnet and its not a comfortable fit. I've managed to free the rear heater tap using penetrating oil through the ball bearing hole under the spring and then heating it in a pan of boiling water and gradually working it free, reheating it as necessary. I think I'll be in the market for a new thermostat housing.
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Post by Warwick on Oct 13, 2015 1:41:14 GMT
... The hose connection points upwards at about 45 degrees toward the passenger side. ... It sounds like it might be a Range Rover thermostat housing. Here's a photo of a Rangie radiator and hose, so you can see where its thermostat housing outlet would be pointing.
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Post by pearse on Oct 13, 2015 9:48:35 GMT
Hi Warwick That looks right, the angles seem to be correct for a Range Rover. Thanks
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Post by JohnC on Oct 15, 2015 12:53:42 GMT
Here we go again, October and we are talking Heaters. I have a real problem with mine, it has never delivered hot air. I have removed my rear heater and associated pipe work, hopefully removing the risk of air lock. I have a high capacity rad and the engine runs just below N. I have also back flushed the matrix which seems to flow well. Still no hot air, any thoughts?
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Post by pearse on Oct 15, 2015 17:13:14 GMT
Hi John I had my front heater out today. The control on the left (driver side) operates flaps inside the heater to divert the heated air to where you want it. The control on the right (passenger side) is a valve to allow the fluid to flow through the matrix. If the blower motor is working OK, then I would think that either there is an airlock or the valve is seized shut.
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Post by barryr on Oct 15, 2015 19:14:11 GMT
I am still trying to work out same problem. My rear heater works perfectly.
The front though does not get hot yet both the pipe too and from it is hot. The heater valve is v hot to touch. I don't think it is an air lock although I can't quite rule it out. I am going to check the temp of both hoses with my laser thermometer but my guts tell me there is something up with the valve.
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Post by Warwick on Oct 16, 2015 2:16:01 GMT
Do you get good airflow from it with the fan on max? There might be accumulated dust etc. clogging the matrix. Or one of the ducting tubes may have come off behind the dash. I had a similar problem with a 1970 504 about 30 years ago and when I removed the heater I found dead leaves and a parking ticket stuck on the inlet side of the matrix.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Oct 16, 2015 5:26:10 GMT
The rubber in the valve sticks shut and is highly likely to break up when dislodged which will then leak sometimes catastrophically with total coolant loss given the high pressure.
They are easy to refurbish and plenty on search with pics
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Post by barryr on Oct 16, 2015 20:23:55 GMT
Fan works fine but there is very little airflow in the car - if I set it to demist I can feel some air but it's hardly windy! Having just fully renovated the wipers and the air box the heater blower is mounted to I know it's all clear in there. I guess I will just have to drain her down and pull the matrix for a closer look. Seems silly to consider replacing the heater valve on its own without checking the matrix as well.
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