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Post by garybrokkes on Apr 17, 2013 18:31:55 GMT
Hello , Ive just replaced my rev counter,all good now however my temp gauge,coupe,is reading incredibly high.in red.ive left it running but never overheated.has only happened since removed dash. I removed dash again to check wiring but all ok,i Seems too much of a coincidence for sender,anything else that could make it read high.. Something ive overlooked.it does move but gets too hot too quick then off scale, Any ideas Thank you for your time.
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Post by harvey on Apr 17, 2013 18:37:38 GMT
Does the guage go up full travel even when the engine temperature is cold? If so I'd say you've nipped the wire between the guage and the sender and it's earthing out.
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Post by garybrokkes on Apr 17, 2013 19:46:29 GMT
It s over reading ,...ignition off,gauge doesnt move ,ignition on,normal cold but once started it warms up rapid to off the gauge,just drove down motorway,gauge dropped alittle .....?
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Post by harvey on Apr 17, 2013 19:53:15 GMT
That does sound like the sender making the guage read high.
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Post by garybrokkes on Apr 17, 2013 20:45:09 GMT
I will go for a sender tomorrow, Thank you . I know the senders unscrew however i had a bad experience with a p6 where i broke the inlet manifold,any tips ,remove hot or cold?
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 17, 2013 20:46:22 GMT
Senders do go faulty but as you have dismantled the pod the symtoms point to incorrect wiring of the temp gauge to the stabliser - its easily done as the 10v light green cables look almost the same as the standard slightly 12v darker green ignition fused ones
Does the fuel gauge display similar overeading
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Post by garybrokkes on Apr 17, 2013 21:41:17 GMT
I just took this, temp gauge left
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Post by garybrokkes on Apr 18, 2013 9:04:35 GMT
Does that look correct in pic above Phil ?, Had to order a sender be here tomorrow .
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 18, 2013 10:02:33 GMT
THe Green and Blue wire goes to the Water Temp and the Green and Black is the Fuel Gauge, check you have 10v on the Light Green not 12v?
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Post by garybrokkes on Apr 20, 2013 17:10:35 GMT
Changed the sender, 10 volts at wire, Swapped temp gauge, Gauge reads normal from stone cold,but heats up to off gauge within five mins.even when you can touch engine. Rechecked wiring against photos i took before and after,everything the same. What is the component between gauge and sender,looks like a relay,could it be that ,i think the fuel gauge is also connected to it.?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 20, 2013 18:55:05 GMT
There is nothing between the sender and the Gauge if you have changed the sender, and the 10v reg it can only be the sender? correct type? the fuel Gauge and the Temp both connect to the 10v Reg.
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Post by garybrokkes on Apr 21, 2013 17:53:52 GMT
I rechecked everything,dash off again,with a more reliable tester. I am infact getting 13 volts on the light green temp wire,and i thought fuel gauge was ok as tank was full, I assume its the two pronged 10v regulator,but where can i find new ?. Thank you for your help with this matter.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 21, 2013 18:26:25 GMT
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Post by djm16 on Apr 22, 2013 2:43:59 GMT
Both regulators - the solid state and the lucas style ones work the same way, they regulate 13V or so to 10V by turn the current on and off. The solid state (if it is a switching style SSD) one does this a million times per second aproximately and the lucas one every second or two - although that varies a lot too. It is possible using a DVM to only detect 13V on the lucas style as it may not register brief excursions to zero volts. That does not necessarily mean that it is not working.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 22, 2013 9:37:56 GMT
99% chance the old thermal regulator has gone a bit of a fiddle fitting the solid state one but you shouldn't have any more problems
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Post by Warwick on Apr 24, 2013 3:40:16 GMT
Thanks John, just bought one.
A lot cheaper than those on offer several years ago, and at the price, not worth the time making my own.
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Post by garybrokkes on Apr 24, 2013 16:55:02 GMT
John,didnt realise blue writing was a link lol,so ended up getting a used aston martin 10 volt smiths one from ebay however it didnt make the slightest difference.... Im about to order a couple of the ones in your link,will let you know what happens. Ive been going through my fresh wsm ,wiring,and gone through photos,everything was as it was.As far as i can work out theres nothing behind the speedo binnicle that would interfere with the regulator .... Ill see what happens with the new ones. They couldnt find a sensor listed for p5 but they found a listing for a p6 v8.so bought two of them.. Is that right?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 24, 2013 19:22:41 GMT
I dont know if the P6 is the same "possibly?"
The main thing is to get the 10v sorted first!
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onepick
Rover Rookie
Posts: 19
Location: Harrogate
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Post by onepick on Aug 23, 2016 10:49:56 GMT
Hi all, at the risk of ploughing old ground...... the temp gauge on my 'b saloon is displaying all the classic signs I've noted on the temp gauge thread from @ 2013 (reads V-hot, but actual temp in the correct zone when checked by digital thermometer), however, the fuel gauge reading seems to be accurate. From the thread, I'm initially suspecting the 10v regulator, but it would seem that, if this has failed, the fuel gauge would be showing error too? I haven't yet dived behind the dash to do any physical diagnosis as described in the thread to check voltages, but my initial question would be: where is the 10v reg actually located. Secondly, I assume that the solid state 10v reg alluded to in the thread is the 3 legged type seen regularly on eBay. Lastly, if I do need to replace the regulator with a modern solid state type, is there any specific wiring directions/diagram? Grateful for the corporate Rover brain power on this!
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Post by richardlamsdale on Aug 23, 2016 14:43:46 GMT
I had a similar issue - my temp gauge was obviously wrong, yet the fuel gauge seemed OK. I think in my case the fuel gauge was so inaccurate it didn't really show the problem. I changed to a solid-state regulator (the original is bolted under the dashboard, to the right of the instruments - it's in an oblong metal casing) by opening the casing and removing the insides, fitting the new regulator inside, then sealing the original case and refitting. It solved the temp gauge problem and also made the fuel gauge more accurate, which was a bonus. Have a look here for details of what I did: www.roverp5.com/fixing-a-faulty-10v-regulator-on-a-rover-p5b/
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onepick
Rover Rookie
Posts: 19
Location: Harrogate
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Post by onepick on Aug 23, 2016 18:40:34 GMT
Thanks Richard, I'll give it a go (once I locate the old regulator)! Per Ardua Ad Astra.......
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Post by guidedog on Aug 26, 2016 10:30:35 GMT
Having read this post with great interest, I had the same thing happen to me on the way back from the National. On 2 occasions my temperture went into the red. This was after filling up with fuel,the rest of the journey was without incident including motorway driving 80mph. I have now got my new stabiliser went to replace under the Dashboard and it wasn't there. Mine seems to be fitted on the bulkhead adjacent to the fuse's? it's the only thing that looks like the picture posted? At least while I have got the binnacle out I can change the Dashlight bulbs to LED.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Aug 26, 2016 12:12:47 GMT
Never seen on there Richard? it will have a Dark Green and a Light Green wire from it
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 26, 2016 13:28:22 GMT
Neither have I but it is quite distinctive and certainly more accessible - 3 litres had it on the dash rail the handbrake attaches to. There may have been a reason why it was moved there but BMC always had them on the back of the instruments so perhaps BLMC when it controlled Rover carried on
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Post by guidedog on Aug 26, 2016 14:48:05 GMT
Thank you for your comments John & Phil. John if your comment was for me,you have the right county, but the wrong person I will have to do a 10 volt test on where think it is. If not?? behind the binnacle. Bob
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