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Post by David on Apr 25, 2014 9:00:31 GMT
Post removed at the request of the OP.
It was an interesting post that ran, shall we say, 'off subject'. Hopefully we can now start over.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 25, 2014 9:06:59 GMT
Don't understand why the whole thread was removed David TBH. Couldn't we have kept the part until it went O/T? Or does that involve a lot of work?
Sorry it went that way.
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Post by David on Apr 25, 2014 9:16:34 GMT
Alan PM sent explaining how I misread your request.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 25, 2014 9:18:47 GMT
Received and replied.
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Post by guidedog on Apr 25, 2014 12:50:30 GMT
Alan I hope you keep on giving us updates on your problem. Bob
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 25, 2014 14:20:56 GMT
Well the Psychiatrist says that... Oh you mean the one with the car? It was my intention to in the hope it might help somebody else in the future. I am hoping to pull the engine tomorrow. An engine crane and helper are lined up. At the suggestion of another party I'll run a compression test before I begin disconnecting and I also think it might be worth loosening the gearbox mounts just IN CASE it's an aligment problem although I doubt it. I'll also be re-inspecting the gearbox mount as someone suggested in another thread that after a subframe change they suffered a similar vibration and discovered the gerabox mount was splitting the metal from the rubber. Changing the mount cured it for him. I'm pretty sure it will be the crank balance but will be delighted if it isn't. It would be nice to have it back on the road by 22nd May for our annual drive up to Scotland for the Scottish All Rover Rally but time may be against me if I do as I am intending at the moment and I strip and reassemble the engine myself.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 26, 2014 20:13:02 GMT
Engine and gearbox out.
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Post by guidedog on Apr 26, 2014 20:36:58 GMT
That's the easy bit, I take the gearbox mountings were OK
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 26, 2014 22:50:00 GMT
There was a little bit of de-lamination on the gearbox mounting but not enough to be a problem. Nevertheless we supported the gearbox at the rear and tried running the car - no difference.
So the question is do I strip the engine myself or take it to John Eales at JE Development and let him do it.
I'll sleep on it
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Post by barryr on Apr 26, 2014 23:56:36 GMT
DIY strip I think. I live in coventry if you need a cuppa or whatever between JE and home!
If you come down the m69 I'm at Corley services so PM me if I can help
Barry
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Post by enigmas on Apr 27, 2014 0:35:07 GMT
The V8 is a really simple and straight forward engine to build. Take it where you get the best value for your money. Big shops with lots of overheads don't equate to best value or even best quality control. If it's only an out of balance issue...take the pistons, rods, crankshaft, harmonic balancer and flex plate to a shop that has a dynamic balance machine. If the motor was mechanically good (I believe there was reference to the engine being rebuilt in the deleted portions of this topic) Then that and a fresh gasket and seal kit is all it should require. Cyf's foray into engine building and guidance on the board is a good example of what can be accomplished if you take up that option.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 27, 2014 9:17:32 GMT
Thanks Barry and Engimas. There are a number of factors to balance (sorry about the pun) between time, money, experience, enthusiasm and motivation. I missed most of last summer (one of the best for years) doing the subframe change so I couldn't drive the Rover and spent all my spare time in the garage so not driving the TVR. We're also looking at moving house so all in all while I would prefer from a satisfaction point of view to do the job myself other factors make it more appealing to hand it over to someone else. Having said that just about every job I have given to so called professionals (with one exception) has resulted in me needing to do some remedial work as a result or created other problems. JE developments near Lutterworth are well known in the TVR world for their engine work and if I am to go down the route of having the engine stripped and rebuilt it is likely they will do it as I have lost confidence in the people who originally built the engine and quoted the same price as JED to do the work but told me this was a 'special price' as they built this engine 7 years ago. JED won't hide anything whereas the original builders I think would. A picture paints a thousand words:
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Apr 27, 2014 12:20:28 GMT
I can the digital cooking scales getting dirty Go for it Alan you will do just as good a job
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Post by harvey on Apr 27, 2014 13:02:49 GMT
When dismantling look at how everything is put together very carefully, and make sure all the relevant parts are matched sets, as I think there's something fitted the wrong way, or mismatched parts.
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Post by guidedog on Apr 27, 2014 13:40:44 GMT
Well done Alan. I am sure there are so members will watch your progress with great interest. I know I am. Bon chance
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2014 16:30:48 GMT
Perhaps I could drive the Chimaera around for a couple of weeks and give you much needed space in the garage?
Seriously all the best. Admire your attitude!
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 27, 2014 19:50:11 GMT
Thanks Harvey. Will do.
Thanks Bob.
I haven't had much time to spend on the engine today but spent half an hour tidying up and another hour or so cleaning up spilt transmission fluid. We had a mishap and it went everywhere.
Spent 10 mins reviewing the outside of the engine and I think I'll clean it up a bit before I crack it open and then clean down the work bench ready for stripdown.
I've cleared some shelf space so I can lay stuff out and will make some holders for the parts I take off to keep the sets together.
Maybe I should treat the parts washer to some new fluid as the last lot is very mucky after cleaning everything during the subframe change last year
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 27, 2014 19:52:16 GMT
Hi Peter - sorry I missed your post earlier.
Very generous of you to offer but I'm hoping to use it much more myself while the P5 is out of action.
I appreciate your comments and good wishes.
Will be up in Yorkshire in about a month on the way up to SARR we'll be staying in Malham overnght.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2014 8:50:15 GMT
Great place. Good walking around the Tarn. Rented a barn conversion in Stainforth when I first came over! Lister Arms is in Malham if I remember correctly. Breweries are in Masham but thats north of Thirsk.
You're right. Don't let anyone drive the Chim! Have fun.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 28, 2014 9:07:10 GMT
Know Yorkshre quite well as I used to cycle around it as a lad staying in Youth Hostels.
I let others drive the TVR - Fun is best when shared. Amazing how many people buy one after just one drive of one. I did.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 28, 2014 21:32:38 GMT
Managed to spend a couple of hours tonight cleaning and stripping off the ancillaries/inlet manifold etc. My engine builder friend wants to see the strip down as well as being quite happy to help me check and assess everything as we dismantle so Nice and clean as you'd expect from a 8.5K mile engine: Anyone know what the purple paint on the cam denotes? Oven ready V8! - Just to keep the muck out I also laid out the gaskets I have. 2 metal only valley gaskets, 2 sets of rocker covers a set of water pump and front cover gaskets and a rear main bearing (with pins) plus 2 sets of crucifix gaskets. So I will need to get a sump gasket as I used the last two I had (one on the Rover and one on the TVR recently). What other gaskets will I need so I can start putting a shopping list together? I ordered a new front weight pulley this morning from Rimmers as mine is looking a little crusty.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 28, 2014 21:47:00 GMT
Really a disappointing let-down having to go to all this trouble so soon. They are not hi-tec engines at all and just require old fashioned mechanical skills for standard tune. Mine was rebuilt by the then specialist Andrew Bailey in Leeds over 25 years ago (I bought the P5B it was in for that reason) I have the original invoice/spec and they merely matched the weights of both new pistons and S/h conrods. Cost almost £1800 then Its now had a hard life but its still going strong and smooth now in its 3rd P5B of ours (touching wood) and must have done over 90k miles by now although the later type rear oil seal is weeping a little its doing 350 mpp of oil which it always has done. It was re-built to 10.5 : 1 CR too and now has runs well on 95 unleaded at 3 deg BTDC since LRP replaced 4 Star which it did not like at all
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 28, 2014 22:07:59 GMT
It is disappointing Phil as I certainly didn't expect to have to keep taking the engine out but each time I do I improve bits here and there on the basis of 'while I'm here and the engine is out...'
I just have to keep reminding myself that its a hobby and not a job.
I quite enjoyed this evening just pottering about taking off the bits and pieces and cleaning up the block.
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Post by harvey on Apr 28, 2014 22:30:06 GMT
Baffle plates missing off the rocker shafts for a start. It won't cause your problem, but it proves whoever put it together didn't know what they were doing.
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Apr 28, 2014 22:32:52 GMT
Harvey, as this is a later engine should it still have the baffle plates?
My TVR doesn't have them and this engine came out of a Chimaera.
Not trying to teach Grandma to suck eggs as I really value your expert eye.
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