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Post by cyf on Oct 31, 2015 19:59:50 GMT
Hi eveyone It all started with a starnge noise on the journey back from Beaulieu: it wa a metalic rotating noise, increasing with speed from start to aprox 30mph. It was not everytime. The noise increased and a vibration appeared. I didn't use the car since i have time to work on it, and it's today. I want to fit a new bearing and a UJ wich have too much play I removed the propshaft assembly  Then I removed the bracket for center bearing  I disconnected the flange coupling  And removed the castel nut,the rear flange of the front shaft and the bearing housing    It's strange because in the WSM, it is said that you need to remove woodruff keys and then removed the bearing and dust shield: I don't have woodruff keys and the dust shield is welded on the shaft. The front shaft sounds "empty" it's not the same material as the rear one. I guess it's not the original one. What do you think?   |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Oct 31, 2015 20:14:52 GMT
Your shaft doesn't have a Woodruff Key Cyf the early shafts did! That Shaft looks like a remade one and be careful with that dust shield it shouldn't be welded to the shaft! you will probably have to heat the bearing to get it off or use a cutting disk  Looking at the picture has the Bearing seized and been turning in the carrier if so change it!! Just a thought has the shaft been balanced!! Good Luck  |
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Post by cyf on Oct 31, 2015 21:37:51 GMT
Thank you for the answers.
I think taht the propshaft has been balanced as there was no problem so far. Once the bearing is removed, there's no need to remove the dust shield,Ican leave it in place, right?
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Post by djm16 on Oct 31, 2015 22:55:11 GMT
If you do not have a bearing puller, you can heat the bearing with a blow torch and then bash the end of the propshaft on the ground (cushioned by a block of hard wood to protect the threads).
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Post by enigmas on Nov 1, 2015 2:08:30 GMT
Hey I don't want to rain on anyone's parade...but don't bash anything on anything... you're likely to dent or distort the shaft...it doesn't take much hamfisted activity to cause damage to a component or throw it out of true. If you have a big hammer in hand put it down or give it to a carpenter. Either cut the bearing off carefully (using a slitting disc) or pin point heat the bearing with an oxy/acetylene torch to expand it and break the union. Take it to a garage Cyf if you don't have access to an oxy/acetylene set.  |
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 1, 2015 9:03:32 GMT
Thank you for the answers. I think taht the propshaft has been balanced as there was no problem so far. Once the bearing is removed, there's no need to remove the dust shield,Ican leave it in place, right? Right Cyf |
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Post by gingerbeer62 on Nov 1, 2015 9:28:23 GMT
Hey I don't want to rain on anyone's parade...but don't bash anything on anything... you're likely to dent or distort the shaft...it doesn't take much hamfisted activity to cause damage to a component or throw it out of true. If you have a big hammer in hand put it down or give it to a carpenter. Either cut the bearing off carefully (using a slitting disc) or pin point heat the bearing with an oxy/acetylene torch to expand it and break the union. Take it to a garage Cyf if you don't have access to an oxy/acetylene set. Cut a few bearing off in my life - In case you have never done one although you do look like you know what you are doing - get the size of the bearing unless you already have it. Cut the outside race off which is easy and no damage done - then all the balls and cage can be removed - then slot the inner race as best you can and try and avoid cutting through to the shaft. I find it best to try and do two sides. Then heat the inner race up and split the inner race with a chisel. Make sure the back is well supported on a block or vice. With luck it will split. If not, it may be jarred enough to knock off with a drift. If still stubborn - grind the inner race down across the race, until you are nearly at the shaft level. You will see the difference in colour when you get there. You will then maybe, find that the inner race splits on it's own or with a bit of heat and a "HAMMER". Don't forget, it's not the size of the hammer - it's the way it is used that counts. If you have oxy-acetylene you can "melt" the inner race off - but that is a whole new ball game and is successful with large shafts and bearings. If the housing is slightly worn and you don't have another, then don't forget that modern "loctite" stuff is very good these days and reliable. Oh, and you may have to use a HAMMER and drift on the inner race to knock the new bearing on. Unless you have a induction coil bearing heater ?  |
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Post by cyf on Nov 1, 2015 18:10:33 GMT
It 's really not easy to remove this bearing. I tried but failed. As I dont want to damage something, I'll go to a garage as Enigmas suggested.
An English lesson now: what does mean "light drive fit"? it's in the WSM in : "ensuring that the bearing is a light drive fit on the shaft" and "press the bearing housing on to the bearing ensuring that this also a light drive fit" Does it mean that it has to have some play?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 1, 2015 19:06:58 GMT
It 's really not easy to remove this bearing. I tried but failed. As I dont want to damage something, I'll go to a garage as Enigmas suggested. An English lesson now: what does mean "light drive fit"? it's in the WSM in : "ensuring that the bearing is a light drive fit on the shaft" and "press the bearing housing on to the bearing ensuring that this also a light drive fit" Does it mean that it has to have some play? It means not a lot of force needed to fit it Cyf just a slight tap! You should have a spare carrier of your wrecker? |
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Nov 1, 2015 20:35:10 GMT
Hi Cyf. It was a while ago since I replaced the bearing but if I recall correctly I cut the inner race off using a mini drill with cutting wheel and being very careful.
As always PM me if I can help with parts etc.
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Post by cyf on Nov 1, 2015 20:49:43 GMT
Hello Alan, thank you, I'll do.
John, tahnk you for the explanation and yes I have a propshaft from the car I dismantled, in case.
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Post by cyf on Dec 5, 2015 15:47:31 GMT
Hi
I have put the shaft together with new bearing and UJ's and it'stime to refit it on the car.
Do You have spécial tips or advices before I strart?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 5, 2015 16:25:02 GMT
Hi I have put the shaft together with new bearing and UJ's and it'stime to refit it on the car. Do You have spécial tips or advices before I strart? Just make sure all your driven yokes are in line Cyf |
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Dec 5, 2015 16:39:59 GMT
Good to her you are making progress Cyf.
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Post by cyf on Dec 5, 2015 21:41:50 GMT
Thank you. Well I'll try yesterday. My major concern is about the bracket suporting the bearing, I'll see...
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Dec 5, 2015 22:56:38 GMT
Exactly what is your concern Cyrille?
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Post by cyf on Dec 6, 2015 8:53:09 GMT
It's the slots in the bracket. They allow up/down and back/forth adjustments and it seems quite tricky to do it. May be i worry to much about it.
I'll slip under the car in few minutes and let you know....
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Dec 6, 2015 10:36:54 GMT
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Post by cyf on Dec 6, 2015 11:26:25 GMT
Well thank you Alan
The propsahft assembly is back on the car.
I quickly read the links and thought that I had better look at them before starting the job! I surely made mistakes
What i'm sure is that the yokes are parallel/parallel and that the bushes and spring on the bearing carrier are new.
What I'm not sure is if the yokes were marked correctly before disassembling and correctly reasembled with new UJ's because I leave it to the garage. I'm also not sure of the correct position of the bearing carrier. i have no instruments to check the angle of the shafts.
I guess that the best way to find out if there's nothing wrong is to have a road test, right? I hope I won't break everything....
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 6, 2015 11:27:59 GMT
The central position left to right is fixed the up and down position is not that critical Cyf Put the carrier mid position (up and down) and give it a try? you can "only just pinch up" the two nuts that you lock up for the height then take the car out do a few quick take off's then a normal run and see where the two nuts end up? lock them up and try the same exercise again. Doing all the UJ measurements in the past the P5b Prop is only a compromise anyway |
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Post by cyf on Dec 6, 2015 11:35:37 GMT
Hi John,
"Just pinch up " means not fully lock?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Dec 6, 2015 12:01:46 GMT
Hi John, "Just pinch up " means not fully lock? Yes Cyf just so they are not loose and just hold position! |
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Post by cyf on Dec 6, 2015 13:29:52 GMT
OK, thank, I'll have a ride this afternoon
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Post by Welsh Warlock on Dec 6, 2015 17:39:59 GMT
How was it Cyf?
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Post by cyf on Dec 6, 2015 19:48:28 GMT
Surprisingly well Alan! There's no strange noise or vibration so far. I drove the car on a small test drive for about 15 miles speed up to the legal speed of 90 km/h and it seems good I'll drive the car next week to go to work which is a 50Km trip and I'll let you know I'm quite happy tonight.... |
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