|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 13, 2015 18:29:12 GMT
I said "deemed" - it was the start (in the US for this issue it was Ralph Nader) of interference by government into people's daily lives where a modicum of common sense would have have been expected then especially but not now in 21c. Really keeping people in their proper place from another viewpoint The perceived "danger" is merely the order- of the change pattern in that backwards is too far(?1) from stationery ie P&N! Thus the now universal PRNDL is adopted so its in the middle A lot of US and even Rolls Royce and Rover with its P4 Roverdrive did not then even have the P which spraggs the transmission in theory locking it tight Not possible really to change this unless you put in a Mk3 power unit complete with linkage! Keep Calm and Carry On enjoying it and driving it
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Nov 14, 2015 12:49:18 GMT
...(in the US for this issue it was Ralph Nader)... A bit harsh on Ralph Nader, Phil. It was he who more or less founded consumer protection as we expect it today. He drew attention to the fact that the Chev Corvair had a very high likelihood of bursting into flames if rear-ended, and that GM should do something about it. Less to do with government interference and more to do with the consumer's right to expect that the product they bought did what it was supposed to do - and it that case, didn't kill you in the process.
|
|
|
Post by barryr on Nov 14, 2015 18:40:48 GMT
Pedant police - evening all!
You meant Corvair I think? -air cooled flat 6 jobby?
My parents had a v4 Ford corsair when I was young and I loved it !
Agree Nader was trying to do good though.
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 14, 2015 21:41:20 GMT
Just trying to make the point that something that was fine for 25 years is now (or in this case 50 years ago) dangerous in someone's or a committee's opinion
Suicide doors/Dip & pass headlights, no seat belts, no dual circuit/ABS brakes and traction control are just a few other examples with due care and common sense are no longer considered adequate for most drivers to decide apparently so very soon dangerous "old" cars that need any driver input whatsoever will be outlawed.
Modern cars are increasingly controlled by the in car and roadside IT so drivers will be merely passengers soon
|
|
|
Post by barryr on Nov 14, 2015 22:05:43 GMT
Tough call really isn't it - the biggest safety problem is undeniably " the nut behind the wheel".
I bet we on here love driving as do many but there is no denying the fact that technology could greatly reduce the risk of accidents. I've just been reading some interesting research on the coding we could use to solve the ethical dilemmas car software might face.
No such thing as an accident - only preventable incidents!
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Nov 14, 2015 23:27:11 GMT
Oops! How big a blunder was that. Thanks Barry. It was indeed that odd, very unChevrolet rear-engined thing. I don't think it was sold in the UK, was it? It certainly never found its way down here. Brain thinking one thing and bloody fingers typing something else. Seems to happen a lot these days. I've even got "Unsafe at any speed" sitting on a bookshelf somewhere.
I totally agree, Phil. Well except for seatbelts and ABS. Victoria was the first jurisdiction in the world to pass compulsory seatbelt laws, and it made a huge difference to the road toll. My father fitted them to our car before they were required, so I've been accustomed to wearing one since I was a little kid. ABS fixed another problem that the average driver just doesn't have the skill to manage, however its existence now means that people rely on it and tend to tailgate. But I agree with you on just about everything else. Traction control is a very significant advancement, however I'd prefer to see it trigger a warning to the driver every time it took action. Something along the lines of a loud recorded message that says "That was close. Slow down and drive within your capabilities. Robert Bosch (or substitute Japanese equivalent) just saved your neck; again!"
The more cars are automated, even with things like rain-sensing wipers, automatic headlights and climate control, the more drivers become detached from controlling the car and the worse they seem to get. Although all these mod cons allow more time for texting while driving. So it's not all bad.
|
|
|
Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Nov 15, 2015 9:26:09 GMT
Texting while driving oooooooooo, don't go there, ! My biggest bugbear, instant ban if caught I think
|
|
tonys
Rover Fanatic
Posts: 419
|
Post by tonys on Nov 15, 2015 14:33:26 GMT
Just trying to make the point that something that was fine for 25 years is now (or in this case 50 years ago) dangerous in someone's or a committee's opinion Suicide doors/Dip & pass headlights, no seat belts, no dual circuit/ABS brakes and traction control are just a few other examples with due care and common sense are no longer considered adequate for most drivers to decide apparently so very soon dangerous "old" cars that need any driver input whatsoever will be outlawed. Modern cars are increasingly controlled by the in car and roadside IT so drivers will be merely passengers soon Couldn't agree more. My newest Mercedes, superb car that it is, sometimes drives me mad. Even after 3 years, I still don't like some of the 'driver-aids', for example the auto lights, which turn themselves on seemingly at a hint of cloud cover (not that unusual in the UK), or as soon as I start the car in the garage, because the car has deemed it to be 'dark'. And then the buzzers start up because I'm getting close to the door pillars as I drive out.......... At least the older ones had an 'off' position as well an auto position. Now it's either on, or 'auto'. I can stop them coming on automatically by moving the switch to the parking light position, which doesn't work with the ignition on BUT I then have to remember to switch back to auto when I turn the engine off. Life used to be so much simpler! More nanny-state means I can't remove the 'key' without putting the car in park, and can't move it out of park without turning the ignition on (which illuminates the 'surround lighting'),and depressing the foot brake. So, what used to be a 5 second job to roll the car 2 inches backwards in the garage now feels like a pre-flight check. And having to disengage 'auto stop-start' every time I start the car - default position is 'on', so we mere numpties can't forget to engage planet-saving mode. It's the way things are going, but it does mean that cars will now do things that the driver does not want them to do. Still, no doubt earlier generations thought the same about the then new-fangled safety glass, hydraulic brakes (nothing wrong with my rear-only rod-operated brakes, what!), pneumatic tyres and electric starter motors
|
|
|
Post by daveh on Nov 15, 2015 17:02:48 GMT
i certainly got a debate going when i asked why the gear selector in my car had been deemed dangerous by all and blacklisted ?, i didn't ask because i had problems everything works great, i just wondered if there was a modification or if i needed to change my selector, linkage etc:, and i got a comprehensive answer. plus when you think just how cars have developed the only thing i see when i lift the bonnet on my Citroen is a black plastic cover and the only things i can check is the oil level,radiator, washer bottle and master cylinders. the p.a.s is a sealed unit and if it fails it has to be replaced same as the sealed battery,but i get a three years service/parts/labour along with AA breakdown cover. over the last 30 years i have never had a modern car long enough to take it for mot testing anyway lets get back to the rover. i also said my manifold had cracked and was told it's a common problem. in the next few days i will be removing it to fit a new manifold and stainless down pipe to complete the car to a full stainless exhaust system as the previous owned had had the rest changed to a stainless system now i have another question for everyone would a Ceramic Exhaust Coating stop the manifold from further cracking ? i just wondered if this had been tried on the cast manifolds.
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 15, 2015 17:27:57 GMT
No - NADA P5 manifolds were stove enamelled and still cracked. In fact the process may create internal stresses and it will crack in the process or when it reaches running temp
|
|
|
Post by daveh on Nov 15, 2015 17:43:29 GMT
No - NADA P5 manifolds were stove enamelled and still cracked. In fact the process may create internal stresses and it will crack in the process or when it reaches running temp then i will fit it as it came no point in doing something that has no effect i don't know if it's genuine new old stock or a re-manufactured manifold copy but it looks exactly like the one on the car
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Nov 16, 2015 2:18:31 GMT
Texting while driving oooooooooo, don't go there, ! My biggest bugbear, instant ban if caught I think Instant ban!! Public flogging would be my recommendation. They are a menace. P.S. Andy, why does your avatar always have that strange double image? ... would a Ceramic Exhaust Coating stop the manifold from further cracking? ... It might. You would only need it on the inside. It would reduce the manifold temperature.
|
|
|
Post by daveh on Nov 17, 2015 11:53:22 GMT
the company who do the Ceramic Exhaust Coating say they do inside and out on all cast manifolds,and just inside on stainless headers to stop then staining, i decided if it wouldn't help or could even crack the new manifold in the process i would leave it as it came the manifold and down pipe are now fitted, i'm just waiting now for the parts to do a full service to arrive, the mate who does all my work said he wouldn't think i needed to use valve guard with this valve over engine unless i was doing constant high speeds over long distances on the motorway,and for my type of usage it will work on unleaded and give no problems. anyone know if this is correct? also does the p a s system use the same fluid as the gearbox and finally approximately how much oil does the engine sump take
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Nov 17, 2015 18:27:06 GMT
100% With 3 Litres you have no problem at all with VSR as they already have very hard valve seats fitted. The only issue is if later poor quality non-Rover exhaust valves fitted but otherwise drive without fear (legals apart) at top speed as all Rover engines were designed to. Even with cheapo ones there is nothing to loose by enjoying the albeit limited power of pre-Westlake head engines as I do with our P4 which at 54 years can easily outrun modern egg-box cars
This VSR has been seriously over-egged now for over 20 years and it may be starting with ethanol based petrol which will cause some peripheral problems as opposed to engine damage
|
|
|
Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Nov 17, 2015 19:14:55 GMT
Texting while driving oooooooooo, don't go there, ! My biggest bugbear, instant ban if caught I think Instant ban!! Public flogging would be my recommendation. They are a menace. P.S. Andy, why does your avatar always have that strange double image? Don't know buddy, I have tried to change my avatar but I only seem to get half the font no matter which PC I use?
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Nov 18, 2015 1:33:37 GMT
Don't know buddy, I have tried to change my avatar but I only seem to get half the font no matter which PC I use? Sounds like a job for Superadmin.
|
|
|
Post by David on Nov 18, 2015 9:47:35 GMT
There you go Andy The wrong option was selected in your Avatar settings.
|
|
|
Post by eightofthem (Andy) on Nov 18, 2015 14:16:39 GMT
There you go Andy The wrong option was selected in your Avatar settings. Thanks David, I have now managed to upload a picture avatar and add this as well. Tidy
|
|
|
Post by daveh on Dec 14, 2015 20:19:54 GMT
after just over two weeks or so with a first class dose of flu i'm just about getting slowly back to the jobs on my P5, i just hope all others in the UK are keeping clear of these horrible debilitating germs it really knocks seven bells out of you. but to get back to the jobs, i have ordered a set of studs etc: block to exhaust manifold to re place all the corroded ones i have and the two end nuts/studs are being very stubborn and don't want to come off. so it's just taking time to avoid these studs snapping. i have also found a couple of other things that need sorting, first the car had a set of brand new tyres, the only snag is they are commercial tyres, that iv'e replaced next i have found a small hole on the rear bumper about a 1/4" in size. that i can weld and get the bumper re chromed but i cant find anyone in my area that now chrome plates large items. others are talking very silly prices, one even said they would want to strip the bumper before it was repaired to check if it was worth plating and there quote was between three and four hundred pounds just for the bumper. so i thought about changing to stainless steel. i have read the thread about the Harrington stainless bumpers and the comments about the fitting etc: while checking the re chroming i found a link for a supplier in the Netherlands. www.bumperworld.eu/bumpers/rover/s/379and wondered if anyone had any info on this company the prices are more or less the same as Harrington bumpers. plus if they have them in stock it could be a lot quicker on delivery so any advice on getting stubborn studs out or these stainless bumpers etc: would be welcome
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Dec 14, 2015 23:15:22 GMT
Bad luck with flu - I have had the jab done for years but still got it last February and it took almost 5 months to get over it fully.
Studwise -Oxy-acetylene to heat the stud to cherry red has never failed me - some have had sucess with the freezing sprays though but I have not tried it.
Rechroming has been silly money for years - cheap will not last
|
|
|
Post by djm16 on Dec 15, 2015 10:01:18 GMT
Additional cause for manifold cracking. YMMV. On my 3 litre there is a support for the down pipe at the bottom of the engine. It stops it flapping around. However, it is a sliding support with three locknuts and springs. If some PO has tightened these up locking the support then it will nto slide. So heat cool cycles will put a ton of strain on the manifold. Guess what mine was like
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Dec 15, 2015 18:49:47 GMT
Good point - mine worked loose and cracked the manifold!
|
|
|
Post by daveh on Dec 16, 2015 13:53:13 GMT
i have got every stud/nut etc; loose from the manifold to block except the stud nut at the bulk head end, i just cant get a socket/spanner open end or ring on it, is there a certain type of spanner, tip or trick to getting this off? i had even thought of removing all the other studs and trying to move the manifold up and down slightly to see if that would disturb the end stud/nut, as the manifold has a severe crack i cant do any more damage to it, i wonder if once the studs/nuts are removed if the manifold will come off in two pieces. the main thing i dont want is to snap this end stud, and i dont fancy removing the engine
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Dec 16, 2015 18:42:23 GMT
I use a 3/8" SP 6 point socket with short wobble bar extension. You may be able to crack it or get a very sharp small cold chisel on the side of the nut to split/spread it.
Heat is the best bet though.
I use a long brass nut on the front and rear 5/16" UNF studs and also on the 3 down pipe ones
|
|
|
Post by djm16 on Dec 16, 2015 22:17:01 GMT
That is very strange. On mine, the nut near the bulkhead is perfectly accessible. The one at the front is more awkward with the oil filler / breather pipe in the way.
Can you get a good look at it? Are the flats knurled so that the correct socket will not fit over it?
Are you using a 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive socket? Is it possible the socket walls are too thick to allow it to fit in the space?
|
|