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Post by tarnowl on Apr 14, 2021 6:43:42 GMT
And new piece tacked into position.
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Post by tarnowl on Apr 14, 2021 10:31:39 GMT
Now welded up with addition of ‘Fish Plates’ inside for additional strength. Old leaf spring back in place.(to be replaced later with new replacements that I already have waiting in the wings.😃)
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 14, 2021 13:37:41 GMT
I picked up a replacement differential on Monday from a Range Rover place in Los Angeles. It appears to fit ok but I did notice that the new one did not have a refill port. I assume that Range Rovers have a port in the axle to refill and top off the fluid? This coming weekend I'll drill and tap a refill port in the back of the housing. Looks like it should be about halfway up the axle but will match it with the fill port in my original unit. I've also got the drive shaft at a shop for balancing and checking out. Hope to get it back by Friday so I can get the car back on the road this weekend.
David California
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 19, 2021 12:39:34 GMT
I got the driveshaft back from the shop on Wednesday. So, on Saturday, I installed a fill port in the back of the axle housing as the replacement diff did not have one as the one that came with the car did. Installed the replacement diff (a 3.54/1 ratio) and man it it heavy! Ended up using a floor jack to hoist it up in place so I could slide in onto the studs and bolt it in. Filled up the housing with new fluid, reinstalled the axles, bled the brakes, installed the driveshaft and so far, it run pretty good. Drove the 50 miles to work this morning with no problems or noises! I did notice that the odometer is now about 30% off what it should be reading so I need to start to see if there is a different speedometer gear for the transmission that will fix that problem.
David California
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Apr 19, 2021 13:14:43 GMT
You need the speedo out of a P5B or have it recalibrated
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 19, 2021 15:13:15 GMT
I've done some searching online for speedometer gears in a T5 transmission and there are a sizeable number of different gears depending on the tire size and rear end ratio. I need to gather a bit more info before buying some speedometer gears. The speedometer gear is removable from the transmission easily so I just need to figure out the correct number of teeth on the gear I need!
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 20, 2021 13:10:36 GMT
One of the nice things about working on British cars is the number of parts that are used on different cars (for example Rover and Jaguar). If one supplier is out of stock, or is charging too much, frequently the same part is used on a different make and model for "sometimes" a lesser price! I discovered when I got home last night, the 66 year old heater valve was leaking a little (a bit miffed that it only lasted 66 years! ha ha ha). I bypassed it as a temp fix and realized that it was the same part as used in my '62 E-Type! Did some searching this morning and ordered a valve and O ring from a Jag place on my side of the pond. I should get it in a couple of days and will install it this coming weekend. As an aside, the replacement diff I put in last weekend is working fine with no unusual noises (so far)!
David California
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Post by tarnowl on Apr 22, 2021 7:13:48 GMT
Starting to get some real progress now. It’s great to see the rear lined up and the boot gaps looking good.
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Post by lagain on Apr 24, 2021 19:41:23 GMT
Used my P5b to go to my brother and sister in law today, as I do most Saturdays as they are in my bubble ! Have been meaning to check the gearbox fluid for some time and as they live 35 miles away it was well circulated by the time I got home. Into the garage, into Park, turn off and dip the stick - ooops, it was on low, must remember to check it more often.
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 27, 2021 20:04:03 GMT
Currently, I drive my P5 every day to and from work so it is getting a workout! I am concerned about how warm the car seems to run. The needle is right at the upper end of normal/lower end of hot unless I am going downhill, generating little heat from the engine. This is happening no matter what the temp is outside. So I did some measuring and have ordered a larger capacity radiator that I hope to get by the end of the week. If it comes in as planned, I'll get it installed this weekend and see what happens next week. I've also got a different speedometer gear for the transmission coming, in hopes of having the speedometer be a bit more accurate (it's about 30% low right now). With the temps in California in the summer time, I don't want to run the risk of overheating the engine, especially since I live at 400 feet and Bakersfield is at 400 feet elevation. Coming down the hill in the morning isn't the problem but going up the hill in the afternoon can make the car run on the warm side at best. It's always something with old cars and modified old cars!
David California
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Post by 3litrekiwi on Apr 28, 2021 9:42:49 GMT
I realise you are running a different engine David but if you search here you will find that the instruments are not that accurate and what you are describing is exactly how my standard P5 3 litre gauge operates. What I can say that although "normal" is at the top of the white section, a 20 minute run up a mountain pass on a hot day only moves the needle fractionally further and if I short the sender to earth the needle goes past the H so if the old girl does get hot the gauge will let me know.
Cheers Martin
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Post by Ken Nelson on Apr 29, 2021 16:33:10 GMT
It might be worth checking engine temp with an infrared thermomter gun to see if your gauge is reading appropriately as well. I also replaced the 10 volt voltage stabilizer for the instrument and with a good ground my gauges seem to generally read correctly (didn't at all before).
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Post by dmaxwell on Apr 29, 2021 18:25:41 GMT
I had forgotten about the voltage stabilizer! I remember many years ago replacing it in my E Type to fix misreading gauges. I may give that a try. Thanks!
David California
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Post by Ken Nelson on May 2, 2021 17:57:42 GMT
Yesterday was May 1st and in the States it was the official "Drive Your MG Day". I celebrated by taking the Rover out for a 250 mile round trip drive to meet up for lunch with our MGA car club group at a pub on a small lake. Weather was beautiful and the car ran fine.
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Post by tarnowl on May 5, 2021 6:44:02 GMT
Repair to the N/S rear outer wing. Door gaps and alignment are now much better.
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Post by tarnowl on May 5, 2021 7:30:55 GMT
I do have a question to ask those bodywork experts out there. Where the rear flitch panel meets the rear transom panel, I seem to remember that they were welded, but I cannot see how to access this joint to weld it? However, as the joint was evident, was it originally tinned and then painted over, showing as a sort of ‘filled groove’? How was this joint originally handled? (See below)
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Post by williamc on May 5, 2021 12:17:07 GMT
I have started the process of changing the colour of my P5B Coupe from the current/original Davos white to Bordeaux red however the auto paint workshop I am dealing with only use Glasurit paint and are unable to produce anything like Bordeaux. I don`t understand why the ICI formula that I have (% of Turkey red, black, white) cannot be used to mix the colour from scratch ie custom colour tinting,I have spoken with 2 auto paint supply outlets who don`t seems able to do this. Am I missing something here, is it not similar to mixing paint colours as for home painting and decorating? If not , then I will need to find another P5B in Bordeaux and borrow it for colour matching, however doesn`t the colour still have to be mixed (as above),depending on the colour analysis. Finally I imagine there may be a similar deep maroon colour available from other ( more recent ) car manufacturers with a paint code however how do I find and view these colours ? Thanks for any advice.
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Post by enigmas on May 5, 2021 13:31:09 GMT
Whoever they are go elsewhere. Any professional auto 'paint supply' shop (not panel or spray paint shop) can mix up any colour combo you want. If they can't they're incompetent. They're obviously locked into some sort of financial arrangement with that particular paint supplier.
The auto paint guy I use (small shop, family business, father and son) do it all by eye from any colour swatch or sample provided if they don't have the formula. This is whether it's acrylic, 2 pack, candy, metallic whatever.
You're the customer you don't have to beg, pull the car out and go elsewhere.
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Jos
Rover Rookie
Posts: 39
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Post by Jos on May 5, 2021 14:05:24 GMT
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Post by David on May 5, 2021 15:38:59 GMT
Jos, your car is featured in the June 2021 issue of Take Five
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 5, 2021 15:46:40 GMT
I do have a question to ask those bodywork experts out there. Where the rear flitch panel meets the rear transom panel, I seem to remember that they were welded, but I cannot see how to access this joint to weld it? However, as the joint was evident, was it originally tinned and then painted over, showing as a sort of ‘filled groove’? How was this joint originally handled? (See below) View AttachmentFrom memory it is spot welded before the inner panel is spot welded in. It is not lead-loaded or sealed in anyway which is why it rusts out! Kindly note this is a bodywork question and should be in that section's folder
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 5, 2021 16:08:42 GMT
I have started the process of changing the colour of my P5B Coupe from the current/original Davos white to Bordeaux red however the auto paint workshop I am dealing with only use Glasurit paint and are unable to produce anything like Bordeaux. I don`t understand why the ICI formula that I have (% of Turkey red, black, white) cannot be used to mix the colour from scratch ie custom colour tinting,I have spoken with 2 auto paint supply outlets who don`t seems able to do this. Am I missing something here, is it not similar to mixing paint colours as for home painting and decorating? If not , then I will need to find another P5B in Bordeaux and borrow it for colour matching, however doesn`t the colour still have to be mixed (as above),depending on the colour analysis. Finally I imagine there may be a similar deep maroon colour available from other ( more recent ) car manufacturers with a paint code however how do I find and view these colours ? Thanks for any advice. Welcome to the forum but kindly note for the future this is bodywork question and it should have been posted in that section. Any decent motor factors eg Spray Guns Direct will mix this up either by Spectrograph on a sample or often to a modern base colour mixture
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Post by Eric R on May 5, 2021 21:17:48 GMT
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Post by tarnowl on May 6, 2021 7:27:16 GMT
Sorry Phil. My error.😬
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 7, 2021 12:31:17 GMT
No problem it just makes SEARCH more difficult and there is no continuous thread so even worse than FaceBook!
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