|
|
Post by corbin on Apr 18, 2012 19:30:56 GMT
Has anyone fitted a Jensen intercepter axle to there rover p5b?
I'm interested in the difference of the pinion flange sizes and how they overcame this
Thanks, Corbin
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Apr 19, 2012 13:11:41 GMT
Change the drive flange on the prop for one that uses the same universal joint as the prop and has the right pcd and centre bore as the jensen diff. Its as easy as it sounds!
|
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Apr 19, 2012 19:36:53 GMT
Well that does sound easy, I feel a bit of a thingy for asking but where can you get flange from? and I note the diff housing is 25 mm longer so did you shorten the prop at this time?
Also the perches for the springs need moving and I'm thinking of using the rover ones but the axle diameter is larger so did you make new ones?
I think we could all come up with our own solutions for these problems but don't wish to make mistakes, so if youv'e done it, and it works then copying is the easiest route for me. You are making great progress with your car and seem good at fabricating bits so I'm up for following your suggestions.
|
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Apr 20, 2012 6:58:12 GMT
You flatter me Corbin, thank you for the kind words. At this point i must confess that i am fitting mine in the same way as rpi do. Have a look at www.v8engines.com They have a projects section showing the conversion. I gave them a call and asked what was involved in fitting the jensen rear axle. They were very helpfull and remained so even after i explained that i wouldnt be handing over a wedge of cash for them to do it, but would be doing it myself. Great service! In short, the jensen axle outer diameter is the same as the rover inner diameter. Cut the rover casing and perch to give you a sleeve that goes over the jensen axle. Weld in place. The handbrake linkage needs a bracket moving as its on the opposite side. They have a good picture on their website that shows this better than i can explain. I will try and find the invoice for the flange, but i found it googling power transmissions or propshafts. Its a fairly common flange. I'll have a look for the spec and post it on here later. |
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Apr 20, 2012 7:10:43 GMT
What a frightening experience  I've had to open Pandoras box to find the invoice. I have a box in the garage that is sealed except for a slot to put invoices for the car in. I havent opened it since i started the car 2 years ago. Theres a lot in there! Anyway, the flange came from Dave Mac Propshafts, the invoice shows it as a, zz 1310 fy, 1410 fitting. £30+vat+p&p I would suggest you measure your diff input flange to confirm its the correct flange to match your diff. The diff i have is the 3.1 ratio with vented discs from a late jensen. I dont know if the pinion flanges were the same on the 2.8. |
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Apr 20, 2012 17:29:41 GMT
Thanks for your reply Neil, I see the picture and can just make out the spring perch mod.
Now you see I would not have thought of that and only this morning was thinking how to grind the old rover ones off (not easy) and thought it would be tricky removing the weld from the centre web, so sharing information helps enormously, thank you. Cutting the rover axle is going to be so much easier and making a bracket for the p/brake no problem.
My axle is from an interceptor Mk11 j reg 2.88 ratio.It's been sitting in a field under a car for 14 years and just a tad rusty but the insides are fine, going to have trouble removing parts from it though so it's going into storage covered in diesel wrapped in cling film for a while to help free things off. The drive flange is so much larger than the rover one and I was thinking of chopping the length of the prop as it needs shortening and welding on the rover flange, now I have contact details I'll give them a call and see what they suggest, or maybe move the axle rearwards by 30mm by moding the axle pin location, just not sure which way to go.
I have just changed the rover axle in the car for a standard set up as the old diff was shot, so I'm lucky I have a spare casing to cut up to build the Jensen unit up on the bench.
Thanks for your help.
|
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Apr 23, 2012 17:53:14 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Baldrick on Apr 23, 2012 23:55:57 GMT
A lot easier to understand what sunbeam was saying now that I see corbins unit in work. Very clever mod. I would have probably made it much more complicated.
Fair play to the Rover and Jensen engineers for facilitating this without even knowing ðŸ˜
|
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Apr 24, 2012 16:26:41 GMT
The rover axle is made from bent flat plate and weded togetherto forn the shape,whereas the Jensen is a tube pressed into to the cast diff housing.
None the less it took a long time cutting the rover axle up, I used nearly a whole pack of hacksaw blades!
|
|
|
|
Post by Warwick on Apr 25, 2012 10:48:51 GMT
None the less it took a long time cutting the rover axle up, I used nearly a whole pack of hacksaw blades! Not to mention rubber gloves.  I still have trouble coming to terms with the number of Jensens you guys seem to cut up or steal the wheels off. I've only seen one in the past 8 or 9 years. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2012 11:58:03 GMT
I can't remember the last time I saw a Jenson...........at least with a back axle in place  For the benefit of me and, I suspect a few others, what is the thinking behind the swap? |
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Apr 25, 2012 15:02:14 GMT
The thinking behind this mod is all to do with getting the engine revs down at high speed, this Jensen axle has a 2.88 diff others have 3.1 etc it depends on the donor model. There are quite a few old Jensen's that have rusted out and probably not worth the effort to repair even though the retail prices can be high, as fuel prices increase it makes matters worse with an engine of around seven litres. This axle is the same width as the p5 and has the same stud pattern for the wheels, the diff is limited slip ( not really required with the lower power output with the rover engine) but there are drawbacks as it has disc brakes and it's expensive to repair the calipers, so mine will probably be ditched and replaced with something like Mk7 FWD transit units. It seems like a lot of work to do this mod but worth it, there are rovers running around with 2.8 diff ratios returning 35 MPG There are other ways of achieving this, this is one option and maybe the easiest. Hope this explains things a bit for you, it's not something you have to do if you run a rover just a tweak that can be done. |
|
|
|
Post by Baldrick on Apr 25, 2012 17:29:43 GMT
Corbin,
Are you saying that even though you have started this Jensen axle modification, that you may ditch it and get a rear axle off a front wheel drive ford transit?
|
|
|
|
Post by Baldrick on Apr 25, 2012 17:30:49 GMT
Or are you going to swap the calipers from a ford onto the jensen axle?
|
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Apr 25, 2012 18:59:03 GMT
The thinking behind this mod is all to do with getting the engine revs down at high speed, this Jensen axle has a 2.88 diff others have 3.1 etc it depends on the donor model. There are quite a few old Jensen's that have rusted out and probably not worth the effort to repair even though the retail prices can be high, as fuel prices increase it makes matters worse with an engine of around seven litres. This axle is the same width as the p5 and has the same stud pattern for the wheels, the diff is limited slip ( not really required with the lower power output with the rover engine) but there are drawbacks as it has disc brakes and it's expensive to repair the calipers, so mine will probably be ditched and replaced with something like Mk7 FWD transit units. It seems like a lot of work to do this mod but worth it, there are rovers running around with 2.8 diff ratios returning 35 MPG There are other ways of achieving this, this is one option and maybe the easiest. Hope this explains things a bit for you, it's not something you have to do if you run a rover just a tweak that can be done. Yes baldrick, as the calipers are expensive to replace it could be an option to use front wheel drive transit REAR calipers as they have a parking brake facility as do many front wheel drive cars, just need to match up the best suitable type. |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2012 19:09:06 GMT
Thanks for that but John Wallets possible bolt on overdrive modification sounds a bit simpler but I think it's still "work in progress" I can understand the thinking behind getting the engine speed down and it's a great pity the BW35 was not a 4 speed box. The car is crying out for another upchange and there's plenty of reserve power once it's wound up. Good luck with the mods |
|
|
|
Post by harvey on Apr 25, 2012 19:13:32 GMT
it's a great pity the BW35 was not a 4 speed box. The car is crying out for another upchange and there's plenty of reserve power once it's wound up. Development continued, from the 35 starting point and it did end up with another gearset between the converter and the gearbox which gave an overdrive top, and that was then further improved with a lockup converter. But it wouldn't be easy fitting that box to the V8, and it wouldn't be as good as the ZF if you did. If you're sticking with the 35 box, then the stand alone overdrive is the best bet IMHO. |
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Apr 25, 2012 22:23:39 GMT
I've posted this link several times but some may not have seen it. THis is a bolt on kit for a P76 V8 (which is the 4.4 litre OZ version of the Rover V8. Bolt patterns are the same but this engine uses a larger torque convertor and a dished flexplate. That said this kit can still be easily adapted to the Rover 3.5 V8. www.leylandp76.com/technical/tech-th700v8.html |
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Jul 16, 2012 12:04:26 GMT
Corbin, any updates?
|
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Jul 16, 2012 13:39:14 GMT
Iv'e been following your progress on another site, congratulations in getting it on the road. Not to sure if youve done your axle mod yet but this may help if you havent. Problems with my Jensen brake callipers being "caput"and having to make a puller to get the hubs off has held me up. With the Jensen prices so high compared with others I've been on the search for alternative discs and callipers. So far Ford transit Mk 7 front discs look good (£50 a pair) with a small amount of machining, with Mk7 transit rear callipers(£120 each)with a fabricated mounting bracket, but. Having managed to obtain a crown wheel and pinion that has been made to fit the rover diff with 2.88:1 ratio with all the bits and bobs necessary to work I'm not to sure which way to go, diff or axle change. Diff change will give me the same result as fitting the Jensen axle with a lot less work and expense with the brakes and prop shaft mods, together with the rover axle being much lighter it's probably the route for me to go with my punitive power output, but with your impressive 300 BHP+? available, then the Jensen axle is best with the LSD So with my unnecessary work and expense I'm feeling a bit cheesed with it all and what with the rain and all its shelved until the weather improves. I bet yours is great fun , How about a video with a soundtrack of that exhaust noise?? Can't wait. |
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Jul 16, 2012 14:53:48 GMT
Thanks Corbin,
I haven't done the axle swap yet, its first on my list for the winter. I need the LSD, its a bit of a handfull in the wet to say the least. Its about 280bhp ish but not much more torque than the old RV8. The supercharger will sort that out though! I've been fortunate with the brakes on the jensen axle, Just need seals and pistons and the discs need a light skim. I've got one of the later axles with 3.1 to 1 diff and vented discs. Were the transit discs that you were looking at vented?
|
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Jul 16, 2012 18:05:15 GMT
Thanks Corbin, I haven't done the axle swap yet, its first on my list for the winter. I need the LSD, its a bit of a handfull in the wet to say the least. Its about 280bhp ish but not much more torque than the old RV8. The supercharger will sort that out though! I've been fortunate with the brakes on the jensen axle, Just need seals and pistons and the discs need a light skim. I've got one of the later axles with 3.1 to 1 diff and vented discs. Were the transit discs that you were looking at vented? Yes vented , here are a few pics to compare with the old Jensen non vented disc, as you can see I cant skim these down. The hole PCD is the same which makes things handy so just need to clean out the thread. If you nedd the part number I have it on an invoice somewhere.      And check out these crazy prices www.interceptor.org/show_items.html?filter=Brakes%2C%20Front/Rear%20%26%20Calipers&cart=13424616177127almost makes you happy to own a rover and not a Jensen!!! |
|
|
|
Post by redsunbeam on Jul 17, 2012 6:57:12 GMT
The part number for those would be great thanks Corbin. I had been quoted £190 +vat per disc for new ones. £50 a pair makes having mine (with unknown history) skimmed a no brainer. The caliper parts vary wildly depending on wether you are looking at E type jag, Jensen, or i think they were on the front of P6s. The parts for the handbrake are unique to jensen as far as i can find out and therefore expensive. Powertrack brakes came up with the best prices for caliper parts.
|
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Jul 17, 2012 19:04:42 GMT
DBD BG4007 Is the part number from Camberly Auto Factors List price is £94.80, as I'm an account holder it's £47.04 to me. As for the handbrake mine are very similar if not the same as Mk2 Jag   Change the ones you have to Mondeo rears, cheap as chips and available, it's only a couple of brackets and will fit the transit discs. |
|
|
|
Post by corbin on Jul 17, 2012 19:07:03 GMT
And don't forget the VIDEO
|
|
