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Post by Warwick on Jan 25, 2010 5:45:14 GMT
Thanks Smallfry and Harvey. That certainly sounds easier than the alternative.
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Post by Warwick on Jan 31, 2010 7:52:58 GMT
RH head off now with no more broken bolts, although a couple did give me some worry.
No.7 cylinder has been blowing into the waterway beside it. Explains all the trouble I've been having since the beginning.
There is no discernable wear in the bores. Can't feel any hint of a ridge with my fingernail. The odometer reads just over 30,000 miles and it looks as though it is only the second time around. The head may never have been off before. This makes it the youngest engine in anything I currently have. Both the 406 and the Range Rover are up around 320, 000 to 345,000km now.
The engine was made in early 1970. The car was built in March and the inlet manifold is dated 7/2/1970.
What was the type of valve seat material used at that time? I recall John W, Phil and others discussing this subject last year sometime, but I can't find it.
I'll be getting the heads checked and skimmed if needed, and the valves done, but if they prove to be okay and just need a grind, can I leave it at that or should I really replace the seats?
I do intend to change to LPG in the future, but I have to watch my budget at the moment so I can't really lash out and do everything to the engine that I would like to, while it has the lids off. It is not going to do high mileage, so if I'm not going to suffer valve seat recession for many years, then I won't worry about it now. But if I'm going to have to take the heads off and get the valves done in 18 months time, I'd better do it now.
Your opinions please.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Jan 31, 2010 9:10:08 GMT
RH head off now with no more broken bolts, although a couple did give me some worry. No.7 cylinder has been blowing into the waterway beside it. Explains all the trouble I've been having since the beginning. There is no discernable wear in the bores. Can't feel any hint of a ridge with my fingernail. The odometer reads just over 30,000 miles and it looks as though it is only the second time around. The head may never have been off before. This makes it the youngest engine in anything I currently have. Both the 406 and the Range Rover are up around 320, 000 to 345,000km now. The engine was made in early 1970. The car was built in March and the inlet manifold is dated 7/2/1970. What was the type of valve seat material used at that time? I recall John W, Phil and others discussing this subject last year sometime, but I can't find it. I'll be getting the heads checked and skimmed if needed, and the valves done, but if they prove to be okay and just need a grind, can I leave it at that or should I really replace the seats? I do intend to change to LPG in the future, but I have to watch my budget at the moment so I can't really lash out and do everything to the engine that I would like to, while it has the lids off. It is not going to do high mileage, so if I'm not going to suffer valve seat recession for many years, then I won't worry about it now. But if I'm going to have to take the heads off and get the valves done in 18 months time, I'd better do it now. Your opinions please. The valve seats will be of the softer variety Warwick but a flash lube kit will give the necessary protection if you go LPG if you do a search I did a bit of research on the changeover dates for the seats I am glad the other side went better
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Post by Phil Nottingham on Jan 31, 2010 11:28:55 GMT
The alleged changeover was around there even though part number never changed - run unleaded I did many thousands of miles of high spped in an earlier engine and lead memory did not exist as I had gound the valves in
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Post by Warwick on Feb 1, 2010 0:11:12 GMT
Thanks John and Phil. I'll drop the heads off at the local engine reco place this week and see what they find needs doing. I've ordered my gaskets and stuff from Scott, so should have those soon too. Engine mounts need replacing as do the bushes on the engine steady rod.
I'm going to get the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated as I've been reading good things about it. It will be interesting to do some under-bonnet temperature comparisons afterwards.
John, this will be a good opportunity to extract that broken dipstick tube stub from the block. More room now.
Regarding that third row of head bolts. I'd forgotten that the P76 4.4 doesn't have them. That means that Rover was planning on deleting those bolts very early on but the Leyland take-over left things unchanged. The P76 was released in 1973 and it was 5 years in development. The engine was derived from Rover's planned engine for the P8.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 1, 2010 11:33:17 GMT
Warwick by 'ceramic coated' do you mean the 'Jet Hot' process as used on performance cars. I had the complete system of my VRod done last year (there are many separate pieces) for a very reasonable price by a company in NSW that organised pickup and delivery to my house. They were far cheaper than a local firm in Boxhill (who send the pieces to a specialist company in Castlemaine) This process can go over old or new systems and is noted as a very effective thermal barrier and coating. The finish I chose is similar to a dull chrome or nickel plating when new.
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Post by Warwick on Feb 1, 2010 23:33:39 GMT
Yes, that's the stuff Vince. Gianni had his done by Jet Hot ($190) but he lives in Castlemaine so it was simple. I've spoken to HPC in Leongatha ( www.hpcoatings.com.au ) as I get down there periodically for work. (It's only 50 mins away). $190 outside only or $220 inside and out. A bit dearer but closer. Who was the Sydney crowd you used? I'll probably go for a grey cast iron colour. HPC quote up to 30% reduction in under-bonnet temperature and up to 50% reduction in component surface temperature. Dropped the heads off this morning so should have them back in a week or so. They don't look too bad. I was reading through David Hardcastle's book last night and noticed that the Oldsmobile version of the Buick engine employed another row of bolts on the inlet manifold side giving 6 around each cylinder. The Buick head had the cast lugs to take these holes but they weren't drilled.
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Post by enigmas on Feb 2, 2010 12:03:25 GMT
Details below. (I phoned them after I received the system back and complimented them on the excellent job) Hi Octane Racing, 36 Mary Parade, RYDALMERE NSW 2116. www.hioctaneracing.com.auV-rod exhaust and shields $280.00 Postage and Handling to us $35.00 Postage and Handling back to you $35.00 Silver Tel: 02 9638 4643 sales@hioctaneracing.com.au
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Post by Warwick on Feb 2, 2010 23:09:04 GMT
Thanks Vince.
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Post by Warwick on Jul 5, 2011 10:34:37 GMT
Embarrassingly, 18 months on from the previous post and this is what it looks like today. But we live in hope.
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