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Post by enigmas on Feb 26, 2015 4:20:47 GMT
The car looks a million dollars Barry.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Feb 26, 2015 6:22:40 GMT
Looking good Barry don't worry about the front it will come down with use
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Post by Deleted on Feb 26, 2015 7:54:32 GMT
Car looks nice and the surroundings don't look too bad either!
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Post by djm16 on Feb 26, 2015 8:49:35 GMT
Is there the slightest chance that you have the ride height adjuster set the wrong way? Referring to page K 7 of my manual, the end of the adjustment arm C goes up to lower the car (after undoing clamping bolt D).
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Post by barryr on Feb 26, 2015 21:40:01 GMT
Thanks guys, re the adjuster I've just literally installed the split pin in the adjusting bolt and haven't tried tightening at all.
The new spax shock is set on softest setting as well. Plan is to do same on other side and then let it settle.
That's the first time car has driven more than about 6 feet continuously in years so lots of things to do still. First and reverse are ok. I'll need to bleed the brakes again before attempting gearbox checking and change the gearbox and axle oil of course!.....
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Post by barryr on Apr 18, 2015 0:56:15 GMT
As an update my off side suspension strip went a lot faster now knowing the ropes. But there are some issues I've faced which I thought I'd mention for others attempting same because the manual doesn't say and I've not seen mention on here. Both my upper wishbone bushes were very seized. The left hand top arm as you view it can't be removed while the top wishbone mount is attached. Unlike the nsf, you also can't remove the wishbone top arm without undoing the steering box. On my car this seems unfeasibly tight, the bolts are a pig to access and the socket sizes also seemed odd. In the end I undid the 4 bolts securing the top arm, wrenched off the left arm destroying the metalastic bush in the process then had to bolt the top wishbone mount back up in order to start mangling the inner bush for removal. Despite several mini dremel discs and a cold chisel I still have a way to go to remove it fully. The dremel use in a confined space means I slightly damaged the inner bearing surface but in use I don't think strength will be compromised and it might even help hold lubricant in future! Here's a pic of the top bush at the moment: www.dropbox.com/s/pm1ctlngvdpr29b/2015-04-17%2014.12.22.jpg?dl=0Oh and another thing- both my bump stop rubbers were damaged. The right hand one as viewed is screwed in to a captive nut but the left one has a nut and washer. I had to angle grind through both to effectively remove them!
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Post by enigmas on Apr 18, 2015 9:35:21 GMT
The metalastic bush inner sleeve has seized to the pivot pin of it's top link due to corrosion (water & salt laden roads) over a period of years. There are assembly greases available that are not harmful to rubber that should have been applied to the pins of the top link before assembly due to the metal to metal contact. Once seized removal is something of a nightmare. Both top wishbones can be removed quite easily if nothing has seized. Rather than use the metalastic OEM bushes fit synthetic nolathane bushes with the appropriate lubricant and this problem won't occur again. Given your current situation, you can either continue with the dremel and 'part' the seized sleeve or get hold of an oxy/acetylene set and using a small nozzle heat the sleeve to red hot then let it cool and it should come off. www.redranger.com.au/m.youtube.com/watch?v=Gl1oNpGHDN0m.youtube.com/watch?v=9zGqfnnU-cc
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Post by barryr on Apr 18, 2015 11:21:46 GMT
Milestone,
I can say for a fact that on my car it is impossible to remove the arm that is rearmost on both sides whilst the mounting wishbone is still attached. It just wasn't possible to fully remove the nut holding the arm on as there simply isn't enough clearance to the inner arch. It was close but still a few threads off undone.
On the near side I removed the right arm easily then undid the mounting nuts and removed the whole morning wishbone with the left arm still on. I could then easily disassemble it all on the bench. So this side is not a problem.
On the off side this doesn't work unless you remove or at least loosen the steering box - I thought that would be easy enough but as I say the mountings were hard to get at and as I only seemed to have an open ended spanner that fitted correctly I didn't want to round anything off. In this case I undid the mounting wishbone and manoeuvred it about until I could get the left arm off. Sadly in this case the bush was badly seized. I'm almost through it now but didn't want to use heat near all the wires to the starter which are right behind.
I wanted to post this because so often we see posts where perhaps better mechanics than me simply seem to fly through these jobs. For me with my 2 - 3 hours a week on the car this means a 5 week task to strip, clean, re bush, paint and reassemble. My biggest worry is not knowing even if the balljoint are truly ok - I may need to strip and do it all again if not!
Ah well I still love the challenge! Hope you find this useful info.
Barry
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Post by barryr on Apr 18, 2015 22:29:00 GMT
Update- bush finally succumbed this evening after much rusty stuff kept it held until the last 2mm. I am polishing up the bearing surface now with emery and have drilled out the split pins that sheared also.
Now it's down to painting, reassembling and hoping they were the original bushes so another 40 years before replacements are due!
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Post by barryr on May 8, 2015 23:57:56 GMT
Almost reassembled my front suspension but tonight when fitting new balljoint rubber (Lower) I thought the metal spring supplied with the JRW part looked a lot smaller. Sure enough it has snapped in two on fitting.
The rubber fits quite tightly anyway so - are they absolutely necessary? - if so can you get replacements or do I need a whole replacement part?
Many thanks
Barry
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Post by enigmas on May 9, 2015 0:42:05 GMT
That's really annoying Barry! If you have some cable ties handy you can use one of these. They come in a range of lengths and thicknesses. You should find one to suit this application.
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Post by Phil Nottingham on May 9, 2015 5:07:35 GMT
Copper wire is good and as Enigmas says thin cable ties - some of those springy things are very poor and stretch and rust quickly
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 9, 2015 5:35:32 GMT
Almost reassembled my front suspension but tonight when fitting new balljoint rubber (Lower) I thought the metal spring supplied with the JRW part looked a lot smaller. Sure enough it has snapped in two on fitting. The rubber fits quite tightly anyway so - are they absolutely necessary? - if so can you get replacements or do I need a whole replacement part? Many thanks Barry Barry are you sure is has snapped? my springs are the original ones they have a tapered end which screws into the inner at the other end, making the spring one piece again, they do look rather small off the joint/boot I hope all goes well with the assembly
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Post by barryr on May 9, 2015 11:35:06 GMT
Thanks all.
It does have a tapered end John but won't stay in now. I think Wadhams might have sent a track rod retainer ring by mistake as I could see it was too small but a bit late now.
I have hundreds of cable ties so time for a rummage. Shame as I flew through reassembly yesterday and would have had it all done. Its interesting how much less tension there was on the osf at rest than on the nsf.
Also I'd advise using a ratchet strap round the trolley jack to pull down the adjusting arm. It makes getting the 2 bolts back in a simple job. Levering down the radius arm didn't work at all for me and was stressing the bushes too much.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on May 9, 2015 13:11:56 GMT
That's a bu**er Barry! one might think it was a bit obvious that the TR Boot Retainer was rather smaller in dia At least you cracked the Radius Arm/Bottom Link problem another way
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 23, 2019 19:41:59 GMT
Hello barryr, johnwp5bcoupe,enigmas, Sam Bee, Phil, and anyone else out there with advice-Help needed! I have taken almost all of the front suspension apart, but am having trouble getting the radius rod and lower link arm off. I can't get all the tension off the torsion bar, even with the lower link dropped fully, and I believe the torsion bar adjusting lever loosened fully I believe. I have removed both top arm links, and both upper and lower ball joints, and stub axle. Am I not doing something completely right, perhaps? Here are pictures below. Shouldn't the torsion bar adjusting lever be positioned fully toward the ground (away from the floor of the car)? It looks as if the subframe mount at the rear of the radius rod is sopping this from lowering more. Would it be possible to cut a bit of the metal mount away to let it drop further?? Barry had some nice pictures on this site which have vanished. Could they be reposted Barry?
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 23, 2019 19:47:40 GMT
Here's a couple more pictures Attachments:
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 23, 2019 19:52:39 GMT
Hi Ken have you loosened the lock bolt on the adjuster the one with access through the chassis?
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 23, 2019 20:24:44 GMT
I did loosen the nut, but it may still be rusted tight. I am going out in the garage soon to work on it again.
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 23, 2019 20:42:19 GMT
OK, I loosened the nut more, but I can't pound the bolt back, or twist it from inside the cross frame piece. Is it welded in place, or should it come free, and is it likely that is my problem? It seems that the adjusting arm may be down all the way fully now, but I'm not sure. Attachments:
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 23, 2019 21:00:17 GMT
Hi Ken the bolt I am meaning is the Trunnion bolt the one the adjuster thread goes through! not the nuts you can see it goes to the front of the car through a hole in the chassis!
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 23, 2019 21:15:34 GMT
OK, I think I understand. No, it is still in place. I did loosen the adjusting bolt (#58) for TB adjusting lever (#48), but haven't removed it. Do I need to take it and the trunnion bolt (#54) completely out? If so, then I would need to remove the castle nut (#59) before taking out the adjusting bolt? That castle nut is just on the bolt toward the end of the thread and I'm not sure what it does actually. Does the other bolt I just loosened (#51) have to come out as well?
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 23, 2019 21:32:22 GMT
You can remove the adjuster bolt Ken, if you remove the locking Nylock Nut and Bolt the adjuster is in theory free of the Torsion Bar, there may be slight tension so be careful!!!! it probably the whole adjuster is rusted in the chassis and elsewhere?
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Post by Ken Nelson on Nov 23, 2019 23:26:03 GMT
OK, I may try applying some heat to the torsion bar adjusting arm near the locking bolt with oxy-acetylene because that area looks as if it may be rusted up. I just finished putting grease fittings into a couple of the tire rod ends and painting the parts I've removed so far. It looks like there are still a couple of major hurtles to clear yet! I'll keep you updated.
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Post by johnwp5bcoupe on Nov 24, 2019 9:06:56 GMT
Good luck Ken you will probably find the Torsion Bars are rusted in the Adjuster
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