|
Post by Ken Nelson on Jul 11, 2020 15:43:41 GMT
Outside temperatures finally dropped below 90º outside, so I started to put the front hub back in place after re-greasing. I needed new grease seals for the hub and looked online and at Auto parts stores here in Michigan. I was surprised that I couldn't find ANYTHING here that was an exact match. The old seals in place were #28118731 and Bolton Engineering in Australia listed these (measured at 1-7/8"x2-3/16"x5/16") and Wadhams lists the seal as part #517012. But overseas shipping is expensive and usually 2-3 weeks, so I found a site in Alabama called Motion Industries listing universal seals in metric sizes. The exact conversion from Imperial to Metric comes out to 47.63mmX71.44MMX7.94MM. Motion Industries sells the closest at 48X72X8MM which I thought would fit. They came in 2 days and I could NOT get them pounded into the hub. The inner lip and width fit fine, but the .56MM difference on the outside just wouldn't work. Who knew brute force wouldn't overcome that tiny distance? So now I'm waiting for my 2-3 week overseas shipment. Just one more reason why I've been converting to the Volvo PS Box and frt. suspension rebuild since last November. But I'll get there yet! I did just fit the gaiter over the torsion bar, but didn't stuff it with grease. The old one was in tatters and no grease was present and it didn't squeak, so I just painted the bar with Rustoleum instead.
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Jul 15, 2020 20:24:27 GMT
Finished the connection from the steering column to the Volvo input shaft. Looks like it will work OK. I ordered some hydraulic fittings to adapt from UNF threads on the Rover to the Metric threads on the Volvo box. Still waiting for the grease seals for the hubs as well. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Jul 18, 2020 16:33:48 GMT
Well, the front hub grease seals arrived with the proper size of 2.813" outer diameter of the seal and I have been unable to get it inserted also! I have used a level block of wood with a 5 lb hammer even, and it just keeps getting cocked to one side or the other and not going into the hub no matter how carefully I level the seal before striking it. I now have the seal in the freezer to see if that may shrink it some. I'm sure the seal that was there was an original and it had a metal casing with a leather seal. It would have been easy to grind down slightly to fit, but the new seals are coated with rubber all around. I could perhaps try to shave or grind this coating some, but not sure it would work or be a good idea. I can't think of much more to try. Any advice out there?
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Jul 19, 2020 3:49:10 GMT
Finally solved my problem. I took a nice heavy 3/8" thick steel plate to lay on top of the seal before hitting with the 5 lb hammer. That finally worked to prevent the seal rebounding out of the hub housing before I could give it a few quick blows.
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Jul 22, 2020 4:31:28 GMT
Today mounted and adjusted front hub. Mounted caliper with pads and brake line. Need to bleed brakes, then hook up hydraulic lines for the Volvo ZF power steering boxes. I was able to fine a supplier for an adaptor to go from USF threads in car to metric threads on box. Then need to modify exhaust downpipe to clear steering shaft connector. Getting closer I hope.
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Aug 19, 2020 15:43:53 GMT
Well, it took a lot of time thinking and trying ways to correct the exhaust downpipe on the 3-litre engine to clear the PS Box, steering shaft connector, starter motor, car body, torsion bar, and engine mount with the 'new' Volvo ZF PS Box in place. Unfortunately I wasted a lot of time trying to re-bend the original pipe with it's convoluted curves, even using a cheap pipe bending gadget from Harbor Freight. That was wasted effort, so I cut off the connecting ends of the old pipe and ordered an assortment of 2" and 2 1/4" pieces and elbows and fabricated a new one. I have tack welded it, and it looks like an excellent fit, and it turns out to be perfectly straight with NO major bends needed. Who knew? Now to finish the welding and put it in place hopefully for the final time. I did also make the hydraulic hose fittings I needed for the UNF to Metric connection on the PS Box. Then I'll hook it all up, bleed the brakes, and hope it will work and not leak. As the Grateful Dead said, "what a long strange trip it's been!" But I'll keep on Truckin' .
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Aug 20, 2020 0:01:43 GMT
Looks good Ken. I note the small indentation where the primary rxhaust pipe clears the steering coupling. This is where it's handy to have an oxy/acetylene set when you need to heat/massage a pipe slightly for clearance. Are you going to give it a coating of heat proof black paint? Well done.
|
|
|
Post by Phil Nottingham on Aug 20, 2020 6:07:59 GMT
Very neat though you may find the vinyl spring gaiter hardens up from the exhaust heat?
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Aug 20, 2020 19:27:36 GMT
Thanks Phil and Vince. I'll probably give it a coat of heat-proof paint, but the rest of the exhaust is just rusty mild steel (although quite solid). I expect that the heat may well have an effect on the TB vinyl gaiter, but there is very limited clearance under there, and about 3/4" clearance was the best I could do. As Scarlett O'Hara was fond of saying in "Gone With The Wind", I'll worry about that tomorrow.
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Aug 20, 2020 23:05:46 GMT
Hey Ken, I removed the remnants remaining of the original gaitors when I first recommissioned my coupe back in the the early 80s (both front and rear.) I could never see the point of refitting them in OZ (no salting of the roads here.) The time proven locally built Fords and Holdens of the day and even current tradies leaf sprung utes to these days have never bothered with spring gaitors. I tend to think they're more akin to individuals wearing spats in a temperate climate (what's the point?)...not that I've ever seen anyone ever wearing a set of spats in my life. My view is that it's a carry over from the days of vintage cars whose owners probably wore spats! So don't beat yourself up over it unless your focus is for a Concours d'Elegance.
|
|
|
Post by stirlingmg on Aug 21, 2020 5:35:25 GMT
A little aluminium heat shield would help, or wrap the pipe in that heat reduction tape, or don’t worry about it
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Aug 21, 2020 15:54:58 GMT
Well, I painted the pipe with exhaust manifold paint, although I don't know if that will help limit heat at all. I agree with Vince about the gaiters in general. But I thought they might help prevent dirt and rust from building up. I have given up on wearing spats these days however. Attachments:
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Aug 21, 2020 22:35:33 GMT
Well, I painted the pipe with exhaust manifold paint, although I don't know if that will help limit heat at all. I agree with Vince about the gaiters in general. But I thought they might help prevent dirt and rust from building up. I have given up on wearing spats these days however. You and me...better to leave that mode of attire to the concours enthusiasts!
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Sept 14, 2020 22:13:46 GMT
Well, I have finally reassembled the front suspension, Volvo power steering box and hydraulic lines, steering column coupling to the PS box, and the new exhaust downpipe. Having done that I checked the approximate front wheel alignment, and there is perhaps a 1/8" extra toe-out to adjust later. I haven't tightened the bushes fully yet until I roll it around a little to settle at neutral position. Fingers crossed and I started the engine after months of immobility and it fired up nicely and steering seems to turn appropriately, but upon getting ready to drive a few feet back and forth I found the clutch pedal going to the floor. Turns out the fluid has all leaked out and the slave cylinder needs rebuilding. So it's all cleaned up, but I'm once again waiting for parts. I found a NOS Girling cylinder number 64673010 on ebay which is what was on the car. I'll order a rebuild kit from JRW to fix the old one as a spare later, but I don't want to go through another winter without getting some miles on her. Here's hoping all goes well eventually. I'm pretty sure this will all be worth it at the end, but it's been quite a project so far.
|
|
|
Post by enigmas on Sept 14, 2020 23:07:30 GMT
Fantastic effort Ken and congratulations on completing the conversion. As an aside, could you provide a driving experience report on the volvo box with regard to: road feel at various speeds, straight ahead directional stability, parking and turning radius? It's all useful feedback for those wanting to undertake this conversion.
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Sept 22, 2020 3:43:22 GMT
Preliminary driving report. With the help of a NOS clutch slave cylinder and a Mitey-Vac to start fluid flowing I was able to bleed the clutch hydraulics. Not finished checking torsion bar settings and alignment but took a short drive for 1-2 miles and so far I would say the Volvo power steering box transforms the car. It takes a bit more effort to turn the wheel for parking, but feels much tighter overall and with more feel of the road and driver feedback. No problem with directional stability, and so far I'm very pleased. I've driven many American GM cars of the 1960's (when they were new) and the OEM Rover PS box was just like them with that wallowing feeling. This is much better. (Spoiler alert-I've spent 10 months so far doing this job and rebuilding the suspension, so I'd have to be daft to not say it's way better than the original!) More report to follow later.
|
|
|
Post by Ken Nelson on Dec 5, 2020 20:56:09 GMT
For a little more followup: When I put in the Volvo PS Box I also redid all the drivers side (LHD) bushings and then drove it around after 10 months 'on the rack'. Many suspension clunks were gone, but of course I still had the bushes on the other side to do. I'm getting to it now, and boy, it is so much easier when I know what to do and how! 3 months of work disassembling before, now took me only 3 retirement days (One retirement day-"RD"- equals 3 hours of pleasant leisurely work in the garage listening to classic rock on the radio and taking my time to ponder the universe as I wrench away, then time for a beer and a nap inside). PLUS, Phil's advice on the big hammer whamming on both sides of the ball joints worked this time to free everything up, and rear torsion bar mount freed up as well. And hey, Trump lost the election, so all's right with the world for now. I think there may just be light at the end of that tunnel after all!
|
|